Swimbait Problems

[jonister]

I have been having some trouble with my swimbaits not swimming like a typical fish on a stroll but erratic with a tight wiggle. now this is not bad but I would like to change this. any ideas to make it swim normal?

[Vodkaman]

We need to see some pics and information about the ballasting.

 

photos - top view, side view and front (nose on) view. Post them in this thread, NOT the gallery.

 

How long is the bait, how long is each section, how much and where is the ballast. This should get things rolling.

 

Dave

[jonister]

I cant figure out how to upload photos, any ideas? The swim bait is about 4 inches long and has all the weight in the head.

[RayburnGuy]

Look on the bottom right side of the reply box and you'll see "More Reply Options". Click on that and it will carry you to the photo posting area. If your still having problems holler back and we'll try to help you post pictures.

 

Ben

[jonister]

These are some of the ones I have made. I know they don't look good but they swim. just in a very tight wiggle.  Still trying though. Any help would be welcome

[Vodkaman]

My first thoughts are the front section is too short. Try a 3:2:2 ratio of section lengths.

 

The eye position is good on the second image. High up as in the first image will get in the way.

 

Try a flat on the top surface of the first section. This will increase the power of the vortices that drive the action.

 

The rear hook on the first image is going to dampen the action of the tail section, but not much you can do about that without introducing hook tangle.

 

You should skip the three section and go for a four section:

 

Nose tow eye, section length ratio 2:1:1:1, flat on top of first section, hooks in 1 and 3. This should give you a much more pleasing swimming action.

 

Dave

[jonister]

Thanks for your help. They both originally had tails but they made them not want to run. Also, where should I put the weight? Im thinking in the bottom of all sections?

[mark poulson]

The ballast is to keep your bait swimming bottom down.  It dampens the action of any section it's in, because it increases the mass that has to move.

Keep the weight as far forward as possible, and in the belly: most, if not all, in the first section. And never in the tail, or your bait will swim tail down.  You want to keep the tail as buoyant and lively as possible.

Edited March 19, 2014 by mark poulson

[jonister]

That is how I have made the two in the pics above, so I think ill stick with weight in the head. Also, why does a tail make them swim worse? with their tails they don't swim but just drag.

[squirrel3495]

Location of the weight in the first section can also have a great influence on the type of swimming action the bait has. Putting the ballast just in front of the first joint will generally make the bait swim with its head from side to side. Locating the ballast further towards the line tie will make the head stay much more still and the swimming action will be in the body. (Like a snake swimming). Both are good actions just depends on what you are looking for. I personally feel the ballast near the line tie makes a much more natural swim and the ballast near the first joint makes a much more violent swim.

[Vodkaman]

I would have thought the tail (fourth section) would have improved the action. Check the hinges, make sure that they are totally free moving. I know from personal, that the slightest burr will kill the action.

 

I have a different opinion to everyone else on ballasting, in that I put weight in every section. I position the weight so that every section swims horizontal, including the tail section. My argument is that if a section is lighter or heavier, it will try to float or sink and this will load up the hinge.

 

The members here make very fine swimbaits, so I would go along with them as my method is rather tedious.

 

Dave

[mark poulson]

With my swimbait designs, I've found that the tail section is so small, and therefore less buoyant, that the lure becomes tail heavy with ballast back there.  Maybe it has to do with the heavier hinging system, too, or the fact that I use PVC instead of wood.

Others may have different results, depending on what shape their swimbait takes, and what they use to build it from.

If your tail isn't swimming well, loosen the last joint, so it's really free.

[squirrel3495]

I agree, I don't ballast the last sections of my baits. They end up being small and the amount of ballast would be just a small amount compared to the overall bait. I you try to add equal amounts in all sections, the smaller, less buoyant ones will have the action killed and just drag behind.

 

From my experience, If I get the front section right, then the second. The others will fall in line with the action that is imparted on them from the first two. As long as they are not over weighted, under weighted or cause to much drag. So I guess I make them "Neutral".  

 

If your third section swims without the tail added, my first thought would be your tail is causing to much drag. If you post a pic of the tail, you would probably get a lot of good info on it.  

[no_connectivity]

I would have thought the tail (fourth section) would have improved the action. Check the hinges, make sure that they are totally free moving. I know from personal, that the slightest burr will kill the action.

 

I have a different opinion to everyone else on ballasting, in that I put weight in every section. I position the weight so that every section swims horizontal, including the tail section. My argument is that if a section is lighter or heavier, it will try to float or sink and this will load up the hinge.

 

The members here make very fine swimbaits, so I would go along with them as my method is rather tedious.

 

Dave

i have to agree with Dave on this. i know it is an old post but maybe someone new on the forum will use the search function and find it useful.

i have found that if all of the joints sink at the same rates the movement is more fluid. think about it this way. if one section is more negatively or positively buoyant than another than the joint may bind between those 2 sections (this is especially true on the hinges that use pins and a rod). when i make swimbaits like this i usually get a more slalom movement than a snake like movement, but that is what im going for to begin with.