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How To Get Started Painting

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heres what I got  1 iwata hp-br top feed.and a bager 350-3..both are new and never used..also a small used airbrush air compresser..I have the hoses to hook up.but was wondering about a dryer?  im no painter but want to start and learn..paints cleaners and lure holders are needed.what.i got to start with are a bunch of older cranks that I removed all hooks from cleaned and are ready to paint...so any help you have will be great for me...everything I got was free for me ...

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If you are talking about heat setting paint to dry it, with Createx and hobby acrylics you can use a regular hair dryer to set and help dry the paint. Also if you type your question into the search box you'll find many of the answers you are looking for.

 

 

edited for thought clarity.

Edited by DawnBreaker
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By "dryer" I take it your talking about a moisture trap. You definitely need one of these to keep condensation from reaching your airbrush and ultimately the paint. It should be mounted as close as possible to the airbrush. By placing it close to your work it will catch any condensation that might have formed in the airline coming from the compressor. I built a manifold with the regulator and moisture trap mounted onto a leg of my workbench. The airbrush then connects to the manifold. Reason for the manifold being more than one airbrush can be used at the same time. By mounting the manifold to the leg of my bench it makes it quick and easy to change the air pressure without having to get up and go to the compressor.

 

Ben

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You can buy a moisture trap at home centers along with any hose adapter fittings you'll need.  As far as the compressor, you have to judge for yourself how well it works for you.  Most guys like to shoot paint at between 20-35 psi sustained pressure.  Small airbrush compressors tend to have a sustained pressure output that is 10-15 psi less than their advertised max pressure.  Sustained pressure is what you are actually spraying paint with soon after you press the airbrush trigger.  Paint is up to you.  Many guys start out with cheap $2 hobby paint from the craft store.  It works but most of us switch to Createx or other brands of airbrush paint after fighting with the hobby paints for awhile.  Hobby paint always has to be thinned and it has large pigment particles that will clog your airbrush more often.  Airbrush paint has finely ground pigment and additives to make the paint flow through an airbrush better.  Even at 2-3 times the price, it's worth it to most of us.  Besides, you'll be surprised at how long a 2 or 4 oz bottle of airbrush paint will last - you use tiny amounts of it at a time.

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Harbor freight has clamps called helping hands there like $2-$3 apiece and well worth it, they also have the cleaning station for $8 when I bought mine they were the $20 Iwata units but they often change but again well worth it. The HP-BR has a .3mm needle/nozzle set so you will need to learn paint reduction and I would stay away from craft paint with that setup and would recommend Wicked or auto air, but properly reduced Createx textile paint will work but you'll be trying to learn 2 different things at once that can be a challenge. Your Badger will be good for base coat applications as its a single action brush designed for heavier bodied paints like acrylics and you can lay down some paint, the Revolution is a good detail brush.

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I suppose cleaning should be addressed here. Everyone has their own system that works for them. I do the following between each color change: Note, I have a gravity fed Iwata Eclipse.

 

I run out all paint into my pot.

I dip a qtip in acetone and clean out the bowl and interior paint well until the qtip comes back relatively clean.

I clean out the front area while pulling the needle back.

I then run cleaner through the brush and backflow a but.

 

Once I'm done for the day, I take out the needle and clean it as well.

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