Mad Moose Baits Posted March 29, 2014 Report Share Posted March 29, 2014 Power source: 12v trolling motor Tank will be made by creating a frame in an oval or round shape with an inner wall and an outer wall. Lay fiberglass cloth inside the frame and drape it over the frame on the outside. This will create a channel. I will then use the resin to harden the cloth. It may take a couple layers. I will make sure one area is as smooth as possible so I can cut a section out and put in a plexi window. Round or oval to keep from making turbulent corners. Trolling motors are dirt cheap at flea markets here. Wondering how big I need to make it. I have found 50" wide cloth for pretty cheap...gotta love surfboard makers' supply houses. So, what are your thoughts? Moose 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted March 29, 2014 Report Share Posted March 29, 2014 I think it is a fine idea. You won't be able to lay it in one piece without is kinking. Laying the cloth in sections is going to be tedious to align without gaps. I think there are a number of possible ways of achieving this build. The one I favor at the moment, is making a temporary 'U' shaped former with tabs to sit on the frame. this will set the cloth length. Some crude stitching to hold the sections together before applying the resin. I am sure there will be more ideas coming forward to help you. Perhaps you should post how you intend to control the cloth. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mad Moose Baits Posted March 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2014 I think it is a fine idea. You won't be able to lay it in one piece without is kinking. Laying the cloth in sections is going to be tedious to align without gaps. I think there are a number of possible ways of achieving this build. The one I favor at the moment, is making a temporary 'U' shaped former with tabs to sit on the frame. this will set the cloth length. Some crude stitching to hold the sections together before applying the resin. I am sure there will be more ideas coming forward to help you. Perhaps you should post how you intend to control the cloth. Dave Dave, One idea I have is to cut wedges, or V's in the cloth. That way when you close those gaps you get a curve. I may get some kinks and to be honest, I'm not worried as much about the cosmetic of it. That in mind, do you think those kinks would affect water flow adversely? Appreciate your input. I'm the guy who figures out how to do something but using 17 extra steps... Moose Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted March 29, 2014 Report Share Posted March 29, 2014 A few kinks are not going to hurt. Nothing wrong with extra steps. Time is not an issue, but it would be nice to nail it first time. pre-planning and anticipation of problems is the way to go. I have ideas for this project that would involve extra steps too. DAve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonister Posted March 29, 2014 Report Share Posted March 29, 2014 I have been thinking about making a test tank too, I was just going to use tarp or something as the inner wall but I like the fiberglass idea. Are you going to worry about the trolling motor prop? I would think that if you were to test a lure in it, it might suck up into the trolling motor propeller unless it was protected some how. I know from experience that they will suck line right up and make a mess of things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saltwater Posted March 29, 2014 Report Share Posted March 29, 2014 I'm a fiberglass guy, a mold builder by trade. Been building everything from boats to lures with fiberglass for more than 30 years. Here are some tips: Be sure to use "wax free" resin so you will not need to sand between layers. Don't try to cover a large area, do it in small sections at a time, over lapping the previous ends. 1- Brush/roll on a hot mix of resin (not so hot it catches on fire) and let it get tacky. 2- Lay out your mat/cloth on a clean flat surface and cut relief lines where any corners or bends will be (don't cut Vs, they will create a problem). 3-Set the first layer of fiberglass on to the tacky resin (it will stay in place) and then wet it out with a regular resin mix . 4- Use mat then cloth, mat then cloth. Let the previous tacky layer help hold the next in place. I hope this helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mad Moose Baits Posted March 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2014 I'm a fiberglass guy, a mold builder by trade. Been building everything from boats to lures with fiberglass for more than 30 years. Here are some tips: Be sure to use "wax free" resin so you will not need to sand between layers. Don't try to cover a large area, do it in small sections at a time, over lapping the previous ends. 1- Brush/roll on a hot mix of resin (not so hot it catches on fire) and let it get tacky. 2- Lay out your mat/cloth on a clean flat surface and cut relief lines where any corners or bends will be (don't cut Vs, they will create a problem). 3-Set the first layer of fiberglass on to the tacky resin (it will stay in place) and then wet it out with a regular resin mix . 4- Use mat then cloth, mat then cloth. Let the previous tacky layer help hold the next in place. I hope this helps Hope this helps? That's an understatement! Thanks for the info! So instead of a V I just slice it and overlap, correct? Jonister, since it is an oval channel the motor can be on the opposite side of the tank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
squirrel3495 Posted March 29, 2014 Report Share Posted March 29, 2014 Have you thought about using a pond liner. You could frame with 2x4's and then lay in the liner. Can be bought in pretty much any size and I don't think the price would be much more that fiberglass resin. Plus, you could take it a part if you ever wanted. Just a thought. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saltwater Posted March 29, 2014 Report Share Posted March 29, 2014 Yes, cut relief lines and they will naturall overlap. Do a dry run first and the material will show you where it wants to be cut. After you start wetting it out, If you are using a disposable brush, just dab-dab-dab (using the front of the brush) the brushes fibers will mix and meld the seam away. If possible work with the tank on it's side, not up and down. It uses gravity in your favor and you won't have your head down in the fumes. Use a powerful fan to to keep your work area well, and I mean well ventilated ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saltwater Posted March 29, 2014 Report Share Posted March 29, 2014 Another important point, you must put a grid (like tik tac toe) behind your trolling motor prop. If not the water flow will be swirling and not a straight flowing current. See wind tunnels, starting with the Wright brothers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted March 30, 2014 Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 Saltwater - solid advice. I am relieved that you jumped in DAve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krash7172 Posted March 30, 2014 Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 Try a bank of tubes to straighten out the flow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted March 30, 2014 Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 Could you use a kiddie pond, and build an oval center "island" out of bricks, with curved mortar at the corners? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
