jonister Posted March 30, 2014 Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 This probably sounds ridiculous to some, but should Etex harden up when fully cured or should it stay a little soft? I have been measuring in grams but think maybe I should measure in ounces. For me the Etex (when cured as long as 3 or more weeks) has been hardening but staying a flexible. It is not tacky but just somewhat soft. I am just wondering if ounces is the way to measure or if etex is supposed to be that way? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtx Posted March 30, 2014 Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 What exactly do you mean by flexible? Etex takes about 24 hours to cure. You should be able to handle it after 8-10 hours. I use the syringes made by flex coat to measure it. You want the ones without the silicon tip on the plunger. Most problems area result of under mixing. So i mix mine sever minutes. They say to mix it 50/50 by volume. I have never Weighed out the two parts to see if they weigh the same per volume. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonister Posted March 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 by flexible I mean if you were to poke it with your fingernail it would indent, but it would go away in little bit. when I have used other epoxies or 2 ton it has dried hard and solid. the e-tex is still working it is just not as hard as it seems it should be. I think I may try measuring in oz. now. I mix mine for a long wile so I don't think that is the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveG Posted March 30, 2014 Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 With Etex there`s a couple of must do`s to get it to set, first measure the two parts exactly and I mean exactly, I use the measuring spoons that cooks use, they come in various sizes depending how many lures you are making. Secondly you have to mix thoroughly for at least 5 minutes making sure all the epoxy on the side of the cup gets mixed in, let it sit for 15 mins then blow on the mix through a straw to get rid most of the bubbles, when it starts to thicken apply to the lure then blow on it again. hardening times depend on humidity and temperature anything from 10 to 24 hours, but it should set rock hard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonister Posted March 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 thanks guys, I will try mixing longer. I think it should be fine to use grams because when I pour equal parts by weight it seems to be the same amount. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted March 30, 2014 Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 Most epoxies are meant to be measured by volume. Not weight. Etex isn't going to cure as hard as epoxies such as D2T or Bob Smith. Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonister Posted March 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 I measured part a and b out by volume equally and then weighed them and they weighed the same so I think by weight will work, then I mixed them for a while- like 5 min- and then let it sit for 8-10 minutes and then mixed for another 3 or 4 minutes. I then got all the bubbles out with a straw (thanks Dave) and have it on a lure now. hopefully it will workout for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglinarcher Posted March 31, 2014 Report Share Posted March 31, 2014 Etex does not harden rock hard. I think your samples have been a little soft, but even using it for craft work they warn about setting heavy things on it saying it may leave indentations. BUT, it does not get brittle, it does not shatter, and it does not yellow after about a year like D2T and other epoxies often due. I suspect the mixing you are doing now will make a huge difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted March 31, 2014 Report Share Posted March 31, 2014 When I use Etex I use the flexcoat syringes and mix really well, and never have a problem. Once I switched from weighing to syringes, I never had a bad batch again, and I can make up more quickly and accurately, if I need it. I drilled a small hole in the top of each bottle of the Etex, and leave the syringes stuck upside down in their respective bottles. Their tips are slightly tapered, so a hole just larger than the tip will make a snug seat for the syringe. When I want to mix, I hold the syringe and turn the bottle over, so I can fill the syringe without air getting trapped, like filling an insulin syringe. Once I have the amount I want, I turn the bottle back over and remove the syringe. It is as close to idiot proof as any method I've ever used. Etex is a decoupage epoxy, meaning it is designed to go over large wooden surfaces that can expand and contract, like bar and table tops, so it remains more flexible than glue epoxies like D2T, which are designed to be rigid. Measuring by volume, not weighing, is the only sure way to get exactly the same volume of the two parts. I spoke to the Etex technician and that's what she said. After I mix the snot out of it in a small solo cup, I hit the bottom of the cup with a hairdryer, so make the epoxy more runny and help the bubbles come up to the surface, where they are easier to break. It is a great material, so I hope you figure out a method that works for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nedyarb Posted March 31, 2014 Report Share Posted March 31, 2014 Jonister, the hardener and the epoxy do not weigh the same. I don't recall the exact numbers but , when you measure the new bottles the hardener was around 280 grams, and the epoxy was 240 grams . When I mix the etex I use 14 g hardener and 12 g epoxy to get exact volumes! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonister Posted March 31, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2014 That is good to know. I think I will go buy some syringes and do that instead of weighing. the lure I applied it to has hardened faster that it normally does for me at the temp it is now, I will check in a bit to see if the stuff in the cup has dried enough to be able to safely touch the lure without messing it up. it looks good so far so I think this one might work out. thanks for all the input guys! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Moreau Posted March 31, 2014 Report Share Posted March 31, 2014 Everyone has covered this but another option is...You can also use medicine cups to measure. The medicine cups are cheap and have measuring lines so you can be very precise. like everyone said mix the crap outta it and when you think its good mix some more! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barr5150 Posted April 1, 2014 Report Share Posted April 1, 2014 Which one is the hardener and which is the epoxy? I put mine in some craft store bottles and now I only have yellow and white. I only weighed etex prior to mixing. Now I know why I was having trouble! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonister Posted April 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2014 white is resin, yellow is catalyst. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barr5150 Posted April 1, 2014 Report Share Posted April 1, 2014 Thank you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodieb8 Posted April 2, 2014 Report Share Posted April 2, 2014 sometimes guys hurry the bait. if the paint underneath is not fully dry,etex will remain rubbery for months.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonister Posted April 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2014 Does anyone have anything easier to work with yet not overly expensive and that is somewhat easy to get? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonister Posted April 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2014 I was thinking something sprayable out of a air brush. I use createx auto paint water based stuff. will it when fully dry be water proof? if not what could I coat with? I also have createx water based clear gloss topcoat. does that work enough to seal in the paint? I have a few new baits that will in no possible way be able to go on a turner for etex. for example a swimbait that I don't want to have bulk and a few topwater free line sliding baits with a hole drilled through the middle for my leader. any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ichthus Posted April 4, 2014 Report Share Posted April 4, 2014 If you're gonna go down the water-based route, you can check out the discussion I started on Minwax. I have sprayed that quite a few times out of my airbrush. It's relatively cheap too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonister Posted April 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2014 So even though it is water based if I have a good wood sealer underneath I could just paint the gloss on it after painting and not have to use etex? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j27 Posted April 5, 2014 Report Share Posted April 5, 2014 I've tried the water based stuff before and I didn't work too well. At first it looked great but after a few cast into the water it started to soften up. Soft enough for the hooks to stick to it. If you wood like to try it I would suggest do a sample first before you apply it to a bait. I've tried two different brands of water base with same results. Good luck!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ichthus Posted April 5, 2014 Report Share Posted April 5, 2014 its already VERY glossy if you get the clear gloss option and available in water and oil based options. if you are sealing your paint in with it, i recommend pouring in a mason jar to keep fresh and dipping your lures. this gives an even coat. if your bait is large, you can use a cheap paintbrush and brush it on and either hang it up after or put it on a rotisserie rack. either way, it will settle evenly. I usually use a few coats which is fine because it dries to the touch in about an hour and is completely dry in 24 hours. hopefully I answered your question, Josh I use the oil-based clear gloss stuff. never had it soften up or deteriorate in any way in the water. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ichthus Posted April 5, 2014 Report Share Posted April 5, 2014 i've never actually used the water based minwax only the oil-based minwax. the whole Idea kinda seems weird using a water-based sealant on something thats meant to be submerged in water. But, i guess you can't knock it til' you've tried it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
basskandy Posted April 5, 2014 Report Share Posted April 5, 2014 Since moving all i use is createx now.. works great HOWEVER i do dip my baits with gst several coats Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted April 5, 2014 Report Share Posted April 5, 2014 A top coat needs to do more than just keep water from reaching what lies under it. It also protects the lure from scratches, dings, etc. If all a top coat needed to do was to keep water out then a coat of candle wax could do that job. I don't think there will be any argument that a coat of candle wax isn't going to protect a bait that is being bounced off rocks, being pulled through tree roots or one that is digging it's way over a sandbar. This is one of the reasons there is always so much discussion about top coats. We're all looking for the "holy grail" of top coats. One that is easy to apply, cures in the least amount of time, is crystal clear and impervious to a 100 megaton nuclear explosion. I don't think the Createx gloss coat is going to even come close to the many more popular top coats that have proven to be the favorites at TU. There is no shortcut for experience and a huge part of that experience is learning how to properly apply a chosen top coat. Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
