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Ichthus

Minwax?

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so am I the only person that uses minwax as a topcoat on my lures? I have been using it for a few years now with no problems. I know its a little thin when it dries out but thats why I give it a good 2 or 3 coats on my baits and doesnt seem to hinder the action. 

 

any major cons to this because it seems too easy.  :?

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I dip my baits in it and store it in a large mason jar so it is easier to reseal and doesnt harden. and hang them up for a few hours. The thing I like about it is that its hard enough to add another coat after a few hours and I've never had any trouble with it bubbling. I've never really tried to abuse it although I should just to test its limits. I may start experimenting with the satin topcoats to see if I get a sort of matte finish. I am using Minwax fast-drying polyeurethane. It's meant for sealing indoor wood finishes but It seals up the baits good too!

 

pros: cheap, easy, cheap, different lusters available, dries quick but not too quick, easy to find (home depot, OSH , and Lowe's all have it), doesn't seem to affect action of lure,oh and its cheap lol

 

cons: it dries really thin so you need to apply extra coats of it to ensure longevity although I have a bait 3 years strong with only one coat of it. (my first ever made bait)

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It's called Minwax fast drying polyeurethane. (thats exactly what the can says) its in a bronze/ copper ish paint bucket. the liquid itself is an amber color but dries so thin that three coats on a white lure wont even affect the hue of the bait. they also have water-based versions of it too.

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As far as the chemical aspect of it, I know it will melt  or "eat" stryofoam (like most petrolium based products) but that's not a problem unless for some reason you need to paint styrofoam. If you did need to paint a foam-like blank (never really heard of one but hey,)  maybe you could use the water based version.

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thanks! I did forget, I think Alumalite has some foam-based resins that may react with minwax. just a heads up if you make your baits from alumalite. I bet if you called the folks over there at Alumalite they wouldn't mind helping you out and answering any questions.


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How long after the last coat before you can handle the lure? I've been using gst and I like it but the cure time is killing me. Especially now that the season is coming on and everybody that wants something wants it yesterday! I need something that cures quicker. Also how's the odors? Thanks in advance!

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The odors are not bad. There is an oil and a water based version and I've been able to dip my baits one hour and handle them the next. (Although they are sometimes sticky after only an hour) sometimes if I'm impatient I'll treat them with a little heat. Just don't keep the heat there forever or else it will produce bubbles. I've finished my baits at night and given them to customers (and even fished with the baits) the next morning!

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The major problem with minwax is that its water based. Longterm exposure to water will compromise the top coat. There are a few people on here that use water based sealers and clear coats so like i say if it works for you go with it!

Read post #5

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I have used this product before in the past, before I learned how to use epoxy. I'm cant remember if it was oil or water based because I don't have the can anymore. Dipping the lures was a breeze, and it self leveled well. There is a difference when using this on wood and plastic. Plastic is smoother so when dipped it runs off in a thinner coat than a wooden lure. The wood even when sanded and sealed would be rougher and would hold to the lure more ,thus creating a slightly thicker coat. It still was easy to use, leveled out well, no bubbles, and held up well. The cons I had were the cure time, my lures smelled like this stuff for days, and yellowing problems on white paint. Also on foiled lures it turned silver/chrome into amber. I also get more of a high gloss finish with epoxy. But after looking at your stuff it seems like you got something figured out.  

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florida strain,

now that you bring up the wood vs plastic aspect of it that does make a lot of sense. i don't usually foil my lures but when I start to do that more often I'll be sure to keep not of the amber color that may occur. 

 

thanks, Josh

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Just wanted to post my results. I like it! Can't say what the long term durability is but for the short term this stuff works. I used it on a few of my flat sided wooden cranks. I put 4 coats on spread out over the coarse of 1 day. The next morning I put a final coat on. The same afternoon I installed the split rings and hooks and fished the hell out of them in a tournament the day after. Super easy to apply, holds up to hook rash well, dries quick, cheap and easy to get. In regards to the fumes I don't think I would use this stuff indoors but in the garage with the door open I think it's fine. Overall I think it's a decent product. 

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