basspikeperch Posted April 16, 2014 Report Share Posted April 16, 2014 how much do you pay for this product? and in what quantity? I am trying to find the perfect topcoat and am wondering if its worth the price to give it a try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barr5150 Posted April 16, 2014 Report Share Posted April 16, 2014 The cost was like $10 per quart. It's good but I wouldn't say perfect. Epoxies and MCU's I'm sure are more durable. If it helps I will say this stuff seems better then some of the factory clear coats I've seen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silo1688 Posted April 16, 2014 Report Share Posted April 16, 2014 I really like using ACC for my topcoats, but sometimes I get small dry spots. I wonder if this would adhere to it if I lightly sand the ACC prior to dipping it in the minwax? Hmmmm..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saltwater Posted April 16, 2014 Report Share Posted April 16, 2014 SigEp George, can you tell me what ACC is? I need to post it in the Glossary. Thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdentAngler Posted April 16, 2014 Report Share Posted April 16, 2014 Seems reasonable for sealing, watched a video of a guy using this for his plugs. So I can seal my lure with this and then paint over with a primer like Rustoleum and finish with a clear coat? This sounds like a simple enough process! With enough time before priming could the yellowing effect be null? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barr5150 Posted April 16, 2014 Report Share Posted April 16, 2014 Seems reasonable for sealing, watched a video of a guy using this for his plugs. So I can seal my lure with this and then paint over with a primer like Rustoleum and finish with a clear coat? This sounds like a simple enough process! With enough time before priming could the yellowing effect be null? That's what I do. Currently I'm still using GST as sealer only cause I have a bunch of it but I wouldn't be scared to use this stuff. Once dry I lightly sand, hit it with some rustoleum, createx then the minwax clear. No problems so far. I had a tournament over the weekend and threw the hell out of a crank that hadn't even sat 24hrs after it's last coat of minwax and it still looks like brand new. Hardest thing it got bounced off of though were a few logs and downed trees. Rocks or rip-rap might be a different story?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saltwater Posted April 16, 2014 Report Share Posted April 16, 2014 barr5150, can you tell me what GST is? I need to post it in the Glossary. Thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barr5150 Posted April 16, 2014 Report Share Posted April 16, 2014 It's a concrete sealer. GST is the manufacturer and the brand that menards carries. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdentAngler Posted April 16, 2014 Report Share Posted April 16, 2014 Thanks, I have been trying to find an easy and safe method for sealing and finishing lures. Lots of information on this, although the sealers like GST do not sound too friendly to an average hobbyist. I'm guessing a light coat of Minwax is the trick to keeping it so it won't react with the paint? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saltwater Posted April 16, 2014 Report Share Posted April 16, 2014 barr5150, got it, thanks for helping Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barr5150 Posted April 16, 2014 Report Share Posted April 16, 2014 Thanks, I have been trying to find an easy and safe method for sealing and finishing lures. Lots of information on this, although the sealers like GST do not sound too friendly to an average hobbyist. I'm guessing a light coat of Minwax is the trick to keeping it so it won't react with the paint? What are you having a reaction problem with? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdentAngler Posted April 16, 2014 Report Share Posted April 16, 2014 Digging around the site I found that people were having trouble with the solvent in the wood reacting with the paint. I was thinking about using Minwax Helmsman spar urethane for sealing then spraying a primer over this. Reading others results seems the verdict is still out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barr5150 Posted April 16, 2014 Report Share Posted April 16, 2014 Gotcha. I've tried a few different sealers with varied results. My guess is this stuff would be fine. I think it would penetrate into the wood more like GST does. Better then say, minwax sanding sealer would anyway. I think the biggest thing with whatever you choose is to make sure it's dry before moving on. I have rushed some stuff in the past thinking I'd be OK and had it backfire. I tried minwax wood hardner at one point and primed it before it was thoroughly dry. I though everything was good until I tried to heat set the first coat of createx and it bubbled under the primer! There's no way to fix that! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silo1688 Posted April 16, 2014 Report Share Posted April 16, 2014 ACC is Amazing Clear Cast Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saltwater Posted April 16, 2014 Report Share Posted April 16, 2014 SigEp George, Got it thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdentAngler Posted April 16, 2014 Report Share Posted April 16, 2014 So how are the fumes with this? some say none and others say it stinks up the tackle box. I would assume its safer than some of the other sealants out there. Easy and safe is what I'm looking for. Can't wait to finish up some baits, honestly been taking my time discerning the best method for me. As for curing, going to dip my baits a few times and let them cure for a couple days before priming. This should be adequate time eliminating a tacky blank. Thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barr5150 Posted April 16, 2014 Report Share Posted April 16, 2014 There are some fumes but nothing compared to the concrete sealer I've been using. I'd still recommend reading the label on the can and taking the appropriate measures while applying it. Once dry the smell is basically gone. It gases off allot quicker then some of the other stuff I've used. The shine is pretty good after 4-5 coats. I goes on very thin so weight isn't an issue. The only things I can't speak about are the longevity or uv resistance. Time will tell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdentAngler Posted April 16, 2014 Report Share Posted April 16, 2014 Do you thin it with mineral spirits? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barr5150 Posted April 17, 2014 Report Share Posted April 17, 2014 I used it straight out of the can. This stuff is pretty thin already. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ichthus Posted April 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2014 I agree with barr minwax is suuuuuper thin. no need to really thin it. as far as yellowing goes, it doesnt start to have a noticable yellowing until the 4th or 5th coat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdentAngler Posted April 18, 2014 Report Share Posted April 18, 2014 Ok, what about weighting baits? Could be another minwax product, but I read somewhere it adds a bit of weight? this can be great for lures without ballasts. Planning on doing some ballast free cranks to optimize the maximum action. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ichthus Posted April 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2014 I havent realized any additional weight since its so thin. even after 4 coats when its thicker, there isnt any bouyancy change really. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted April 22, 2014 Report Share Posted April 22, 2014 When I epoxy a bait with D2T, it adds approximately .03 oz to an average size bass crankbait. The extra weight is not inconsequential but it isn't very much, either. I don't think polyurethane will emit much of a smell after it dries. Otherwise, we'd all be living around smelly furniture. Solvent based auto paint primers are quite different - now, THEY really DO stink forever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saltwater Posted April 22, 2014 Report Share Posted April 22, 2014 Question for the physics guys, when you paint and coat a bait you do add weight but you also increase surface area. Do these two factors cancel each other out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdentAngler Posted April 22, 2014 Report Share Posted April 22, 2014 Thanks Bobp I'm doing some small glider style baits and the added weight could make or break the bait. I have a dozen different methods to make the same lure, won't know what recipe is best till I try them all, hahaha. Before I experiment it seems prudent to know the ins and outs so that time and materials aren't wasted. So a few more questions: The minwax Helmsman seems to be an efficient method for all my bait needs as its simple to use, cheap, and low on fumes. Now I need to find a topcoat to match? I read it can be used as a topcoat but perhaps something else can be used as the yellowing worries me. Perhaps I missed this but does sealing with superglue add any weight considering it soaks into the wood rather than sit on the surface? Also worried the superglue seeps in too much. One of my lures utilizes a thin profile with rattles tucked inside grooves this could be a problem, don't want it to imbue in the wood and glue my rattles! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
