Minwax?

[mark poulson]

Oil based urethanes do yellow with time.  That's why it is prefered for red oak floors, to add a rich, amber tint over time.

Water based urethanes do not yellow.  That's why it's used on maple floors, and any floor where the natural color of the wood is to be maintained.

[cms]

Very interesting....

[BobP]

Hey, I know Mark likes using a water based clearcoat but many guys don't.  When I tried some, extended exposure to water would turn it white and soft.  I think that problem is inherent in any water based clearcoat.

 

I say don't worry about the weight of clearcoats.  You have to use them and a few mils coating a bait is a negligible weight.  Even the thickest clearcoat adds only a few hundredths of an ounce to a bait.  If that's an issue, you should adjust the ballast accordingly, or if you are painting plastic baits, maybe use lighter hooks or smaller split rings.

[Griffond]

Now this has been and interesting thread I have coated one lure along time back that I made one of my first in minwax just to try it out the lure wasnt weighted correctly so I just made it a wall hanger but it was super easy to use it did tint the white paint just a touch I think it just could have been an older can from the hardware store thou... I would be interested to see if anyone has tried Marine grade urethane... much longer dry time but made for constant water and drys clear like this stuff here 

http://www.zoro.com/g/00060673/k-G2901936?utm_source=google_shopping&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Google_Shopping_Feed&kpid=G2901936&gclid=CM2h9KSWsL4CFWNgMgodvBgAWA

[mark poulson]

Bob, 

You're right.  I used water based, and specifically Target Coatings SC9000, and it did soften and cloud if left on a wet carpet overnight, or in a tub of water overnight.  But it never did that while fishing, and it was the only top coat I ever found that didn't dim metallic and pearl colors, or affect the color scheme in any way.  A big thank you to Husky for turning me on to it.

I have cranks that I coated three years ago that are still working, and still look great.

The Target Coatings EM9300, their exterior version of a water based urethane, wasn't super clear (SC) like the 9000, but it is bullet proof.  I used it on salt water baits, and it never failed.

But I am, first and foremost, all about shortening my lure building process, so I can maximize my fishing time, so I have switched to Solarez gloss almost exclusively.  It is super durable, and I can coat and cure a bait in three minutes and fish it immediately.

I can dip coat a lure, including the bill, hang it by the line tie, let it drip back into the dip jar until it stops, wipe off whatever excess is on the bottom the lure back into the jar or with a paper towel, and then cure it.  Hanging it that way insures that the amount of clear on the bill is as thin as possible, so it doesn't take away from the action of the lure, and I still get a really durable bait.

[mark poulson]

Griffond,

I haven't tried that particular varnish, but I have used Spar varnish before.  Since it is designed to go over wood, which expands and contracts, I found it is great for wood baits, but it does yellow over time, and it is a little softer than other top coats, and not as durable.

[ArdentAngler]

Ok, touching base again to refine my process and ensure I get it right on my first try!

 

Is one coat of straight Minwax Spar Urethane not thinned enough?

 

With one coat would this limit or eliminate yellowing completely?

 

 

So my process is:

 

Carve lure, possibly bib and hook hangers installed. Then one dip  in the spar urethane. Allow adequate time to dry, then either dip or spray on my primer. Once that's dry follow up by painting my pattern and adding a clear coat, devcon 2 ton and it should be finished?

 

If there is another alternative or an easier way let me know!