Ernest Posted May 15, 2014 Report Share Posted May 15, 2014 Does anyone powder coat with weedguards attached using weedguard protectors. How have the results been. What temps do you use to cure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jig Man Posted May 18, 2014 Report Share Posted May 18, 2014 I've tried a few ideas to protect the wg and all of them failed so I powder coat with the Teflon pins in then add the wg the very last thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Apdriver Posted May 18, 2014 Report Share Posted May 18, 2014 ^^^^^^This^^^^^^. Don't waste your time. Things are too hot to protect the fragile weed guard. Pour and paint with the Teflon pins. Pull the pins before you bake your jigs. Then epoxy or glue the weed guards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jig Man Posted May 18, 2014 Report Share Posted May 18, 2014 I don't even remove the pins when I bake. It makes the paint break off easily when it is crusty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smalljaw Posted May 18, 2014 Report Share Posted May 18, 2014 I tried it and it works ok but it still makes the weed guard curl which looks like crap, the fish don't mind but I like to have my stuff at least look decent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowFISH Posted May 19, 2014 Report Share Posted May 19, 2014 It can be done successfully.... I posted this up awhile back... Buy some 1/8" or slightly larger diameter aluminum tubing from a hobby supply store depending on your guard size(K-S is a brand that makes the tubing I'm talking about) This stuff is way cheaper than teflon guards. Cut it into pieces 1/4" longer than your weed guards (say about 1.25" long) and then flare one end out to make sliding over the guard easier. I used a large nail that I sanded the head smooth - just stick it in the tube and rotate it around until the edge flares out - you could probably use a Philips head screw driver if you're lazy!!. Then just slide the flared end of the tube over the weed guard and slide it down to the base/lead before heating your jigs and you're good to go. The tubing will keep the weed guard from warping/bending when heated. You want a "snug fit" with the tube.... easy enough to slide on but no slop... if there is room in the tube - the guards will warp. The whole reason the tubes work is when the guards gets soft and try to bend/warp the tubing holds them in place so they can't move - kind of like a straight jacket!!!! LOL!!! If you buy 2-3 feet of tubing you can make a good 20-30 of these things and make alot of jigs fast. Powder WILL cook onto the tube.... dont sweat it - I use the same tubes over and over and over with different colors without cleaning them - doesn't make any difference. I found that baking the heads in the 340-350 range will cure the powder I use and not melt the guards. I'd test a few to get a temp you like that works well in curing and not melting the guards. In general, most powders are spec'd to cure closer to 400 - I haven't noticed any issue with a lower temp - I do bake them longer though. Most powder companies provide cure temp guidelines... colors/manufactures all have different temps and times - you might be able to find something that cures in the low/mid 300's which would be helpful as well. Good luck. J. J. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ernest Posted May 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2014 I heated powder coated and cured all with the wg protector on and it worked out pretty good. I used as low heat as I could and still get good adhesion from dipping the jigs. I also cured at a lower temp for a longer time. I think the key to doing this is to leave the wg protector on until the jig has completely cooled to room temp. I removed one early and it flared a little on me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
