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MidTNKayakAngler

Epoxy Question

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I know this is my 1st post so I'll give a brief introduction. My wife and I have been married for 11 years, and we have always fished religiously. We've moved all over the eastern US for our jobs, but have finally settled down in Tennessee, I think. We are getting into bait painting as a hobby, for fun, for gifts, for prizes for tournaments I run, and to donate to other tournaments, not for sale. We are getting everything thing together and have a room dedicated to this and my area to work on reels. We have 80 or so paints (Createx Airbrush, and Wicked) an Iwata Revolution airbrush, a desk with paint booth and drying booth, so I think we are about ready just waiting on new solid doors for the room to arrive.

 

Now to the question

 

I have three different epoxies West System GFlex, TAP Plastics Marine Epoxy with a slow hardener, and Devcon 2 Ton.

 

I know the most popular epoxy around here (TU) is the Devcon 2 Ton, but I was wondering if anyone had thoughts on the West System G Flex, or the TAP Plastics Marine Epoxy? I used the West System GFlex on other projects and it hasn't discolored, and it released air bubbles well, and finishes nice and clear.

 

I've never used the Devcon 2 Ton which I bought due to being a popular epoxy for finishing baits, and the TAP Plastics Marine Epoxy is for another project I haven't gotten around to yet.

 

Thanks Jeremy

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Jeremy, 

The best way to see how each will work is to do some test pieces, using the same wood and system you plan to use for your lures.

I've only used Devcon 2 Ton, but the info online for other two epoxies you mentioned read like they'd work.  

A test of each is your best bet to find what works for you best in your system.

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Devcon 2 Ton became popular more than a decade ago, not least because it was available at Walmart in a double syringe for 2 bucks (which is no longer true).  I don't see a lot of difference among slow cure epoxies as far as their performance on baits, and wouldn't hesitate to use another brand if you've had good results with it on other projects (as concerns leveling, clarity, lack of yellowing). 

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Devcon 2 Ton became popular more than a decade ago, not least because it was available at Walmart in a double syringe for 2 bucks (which is no longer true).  I don't see a lot of difference among slow cure epoxies as far as their performance on baits, and wouldn't hesitate to use another brand if you've had good results with it on other projects (as concerns leveling, clarity, lack of yellowing). 

 

I've seen the double syringe DT2 at our Ace Hardware for upwards of $4.50 now.

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I think it is mostly a preference thing as well.. on your list i have only used the devcon.  however i have used other epoxies such as envirotex and an off brand and i would take Mark's advice mix a couple of them up and test them on either some wood or some old baits see what u like most..  Devcon is definatly one of the more pricy ones out there but if ur doing it just for u then not a big deal.. cheers and good luck! let us know what comes of it!

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Wow, thanks for all the great replies.

It will be a while before we get started, as we have all the equipment, but haven't finished the room we will be using with workbenches, cabinets, and the solid doors have not arrived yet. I also need to practice with the air brush, it's a little harder than I thought it would be. Once I get started I'll do several baits plastic and wood bodies with each type of epoxy and give them to a few friends that fish 3 times a week to daily and let them beat the snot out of them and let me know what they think. I'll try to put them all on with the same thickness to get a real true test for durability, and clarity. I was just wondering if anyone else had experimented with these epoxies yet.

 

Thanks again TU

 

Jeremy

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TU'ers have tried almost every epoxy brand imaginable and my take is that once on the lure and cured, they all perform similarly.  There are three main categories of epoxy that are popular:  slow cure glue epoxies like Devcon 2 Ton, decoupage/pour-on table top epoxies like Envirotex Lite (aka ETEX), and rod guide epoxies like Flexcoat.  I see no reason why West epoxy would not work as long as it has a long enough work time, levels out well, and will not yellow quickly from UV exposure.

 

The epoxy that should always be avoided in topcoating is quick cure 5 minute epoxy - it hardens too fast, will not level, and will turn an ugly brown after UV exposure.

 

There are significant differences among epoxies regarding their work time, how long it takes to cure (translate - how long you have to rotate the lure after application), film thickness, etc.  Guys usually try several and settle on one that suits their work habits and finished product desires.

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One thing that you may encounter is epoxy blush. It is a wax like film that rises to the surface when the epoxy cures. You can purchase low blush hardener or I believe that it can be removed with Denatured alcohol. I haven't experienced blush when using Devcon 2 Ton. But I have encountered blush when using marine epoxy.

Don

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Thanks Don-Art, I've witnessed this what you call blush before. I made a beer pong table years ago and used bar top epoxy on it. I got the epoxy from TAP Plastics, but have forgotten the name of it. It is really hard, leveled well, didn't yellow, but will get a light film on it if not used for a while almost like a haze. I just spray it down with isopropyl alcohol and wipe it off with a paper towel and it brings it back to life. I wish I knew the name of the epoxy I used for that table, it would be a good one to try on baits, but may be to heavy. 

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Jeremy,

 

If you are just going to make some baits for your own enjoyment, let me give you a suggestion. Just learn to use Devcon and forget it. I have been making baits for 14 yrs. I have been a member on here since it was created. There has been a TON OF STUFF listed and used on this site for clearcoating baits. NOTHING has beat Devcon yet. Don't worry about thinning it, heating it, the cost or the durability of it. Just use it. Learning how to apply Devcon is a skill. You have to practice at it. But once you do, you will be happy with the results. I had an article written in the tutorial section of this site on how I apply Devcon. However, it is no longer there. I don't know what happened to it.

 

Skeeter

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Bob's spot on with the marine epoxy. Having done both the stitch and glue method and strip method. We always had to top coat with paint or poly urethane. It does have a very amber tone. I also agree with Skeeter and the use of Devcon 2 ton. I know that we are always looking for ways of saving a few bucks here and there. But in the long run, you will most likely discover that you are money ahead.

Don

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Here is my one small bit of less experienced advice... I would base the coating your using on the size and quantity of lures you are making... making a couple at a time D2T is perfect in its hardware store side by side two tube dispenser... but if your going for a bunch of lures at once I know the other sources can be had at better prices in bigger quantities... I also know awhile back there were a few guys on here that used auto clear coat as well I'm not sure what ever came of that but I know that the few that used it had good luck... and the only other suggestion I would make is if using D2T from my personal experience having a lure turner is almost a must to get a perfect even finish... just my two cents

Either way it sounds like your gonna have a grand little set up for a room when it is all done and said don't forget to show it off to the rest of us  :yay:

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I like Devcon 2 Ton for a few reasons.  First, being a glue epoxy, it yields a thicker film so I never need to use more than one coat on a bass lure.  It cures faster than most other epoxies - you can usually lightly handle a bait after 5-6 hours.  It's "brush time" is 3-4 minutes, long enough to coat a  couple of baits without panic.  In a cool environ, you can add a few drops of denatured alcohol after mixing it and that will extend the brush time a couple of minutes and will also help the epoxy to expel bubbles.  Any epoxy, including D2T, will yellow more quickly if you don't pay attention to measuring the resin and hardener accurately or if you fail to mix them thoroughly.  I measure mine with a set of epoxy syringes and then mix the hell out of it.  Like most epoxies, Devcon will yellow slightly over time (usually a few years).  If that is an issue, you can try Flexcoat UV, a rod guide epoxy containing UV inhibitors (at higher price).  Musky lure builders often favor using Envirotex Lite (aka ETEX), a decoupage epoxy, on their lures.  They feel it has more impact resistance and durability in that extreme environment.  It requires multiple coats and long cure times, as a trade-off.

 

There's a knack to applying any specific epoxy, and it changes with the brand.  Each brand has a slightly different character in terms of how best to mix and apply it so I think it's preferable to choose one and develop a knack for using it if you want to avoid the occasional goof-up. 

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I have been using D2T that comes in a package that contains two 9 oz. bottles (one resin and one hardener) I believe that it can be found online for around $12.

18 oz. of mixed epoxy can coat a large number

of crankbaits. I have used the twin tube variety, but I prefer dispensing and mixing from the bottles. There's a bit of a learning curve when using any type of top coat, but there is a wealth of knowledge here on TU to help you lessen the curve. I would agree that a lure turner would be also included in order to maintain a uniform topcoat. They are easy to make and shouldn't be a huge expense.

Don

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I'll make sure to let you know, if I ever run into a deal like that. I should have given it a bit more thought about the size of the bottles. Now if the shoe was on the other foot. I'd be giving you a hard time, that the 9 oz. bottle must only be available in Texas. lol

Don

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I looked at the bottles one more time. I can see where I made the mistake. On the hardener bottle it says 9 oz. Combined weight. The resin bottle is labeled 4.5 oz. Once again sorry for the confusion. Lesson learned wear your glasses when reading the fine print.

Don

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I looked at the bottles one more time. I can see where I made the mistake. On the hardener bottle it says 9 oz. Combined weight. The resin bottle is labeled 4.5 oz. Once again sorry for the confusion. Lesson learned wear your glasses when reading the fine print.

Don

 

Hope your eyesight hasn't deteriorated to where I'm at Don. It's almost gotten to the point I need glasses to find my glasses. Some friends of mine make fun of me for having so many pairs of glasses laying around the house, but that's so I can usually find a pair of them. :blink:

 

Ben

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At least I know that I am not alone. I went as far as to add bifocals to my Sunglasses, for fishing. I never thought that I would have trouble feeding the line through the eye of a hook, but I was wrong. I have a half dozen CVS reading glasses and even some safety glass readers.

Don

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