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Procraft01

Crankbait Machine

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The two black things in the middle look like support bearings for the middle of the shaft assembly.

The master is held in a check, with the other end locked to the drive shaft.

The blank is also locked at the right end to the drive shaft, and the left end looks like some kind of dead center that was turned on the end of the threaded tension rod at the left.

This guy is either a machinist, or has access to someone who is.  

That's a neat setup!

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If you can weld, use a lathe, have all the electrical stuff, and have access to parts, you're right, but you still need a lot of mechanical know-how to get everything working properly.

Vodkaman made a duplicating machine a while back, and he's much more familiar with the entire process and it's challenges.

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I have a cupped dead center with a fixed centering pin on my old swap meet wood lathe.  After I center punch the end of the stock, I put paraffin wax on the dead center and push it into the end of the stock.  There is a threaded rest on my lathe bed, with a wheel to advance the center, and a set screw to lock it in place.

I've seen duplicating wood lathes for turnings and spindles in shops, and often wondered if they could be adapted for crank manufacturing.  zi just never could figure out how to mount a cutting machine in place of the lathe chisel. 

Edited by mark poulson
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It would seam that it is something one with a little bit of skill could build will relative ease.  As mentioned the return for the cutter would be something to tweak based on how the video appears the copier moves.  Still not for sure I wouldn't try using a small palm router as the cutter with a Saburr Tooth set up.  One of those things I always want to make for kicks but don't think I would use too often.  As far as masters if you can't carve one a drill press and crank is all you need.  I would use a "set" screw set up to lock the master in place on the shaft. 

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I understand the grinder (with saw blade) and stylus are riding on a threaded rod but how do you return it without having to run it in reverse? Is there a half nut ? or a  pin of some sort ? I imagine the top assembly is held against the blank and template with a spring. But I think after going an inch or two it would want to jump threads and return to its starting point. How is this avoided?

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OK fellas . The return of the cradle just motor in reverse . The cast alloy plate on the far left comes of a drop saw . All the electrics are 12 volt to prevent any unwanted shocks ..And I can only cut from left to right as if I go from right to left it throws the block out . It looks crude there is no doubt about it but I've cut 100s of blanks and it still runs true . This duplicator is a hybrid from all the good ones I've watched on youtube and thought this was the easiest design I could build. I find some machines are over engineered . Keep it simple and you don't loose fingers I say. Cheers for the comments guys . :P  

FLASH

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Oh yeah . I forgot to add that im sorry for the music as my mate hates slow music so to stick it to him I found that . A few other safety mods too . Im currently working on another with auto stop and return in fast mode .

FLASH

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When I couldn't pay the rent, I had to move and throw all the machines that I had made away. I did make mistakes and so I hope to return to the project one day.

 

I thought about the half nuts for a quick return, but the saw cutter cut both directions and it was possible to reverse the motor (automotive wiper motor).

 

I hand carved my masters and glued them onto stainless steel rods. Changing masters was three bolts, so only a couple of minutes.

 

I never felt the need to do a stock feed mechanism and was happy with just trimming the stock pieces ready for the machine.

 

I held the stock with a home made clamp mechanism with two pins. Pressed into the wood and nipped up with an hex key bolt.

 

The main mistake I made was making the swing arms too long. These need to be kept relatively short, to keep any extraneous movements to a minimum.

 

Yes, wood masters, even with epoxy coating, do not last long, I would say a few hundred. If this is an issue if you want to make thousands, the best way is to cut a dozen or so, finish them and use as future masters. Keep the original safe until you need to cut more masters.

 

Dave

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I guess I have too much time on my hands with the recovery...

 

A few things that I see in common on the machines the big producers use (at least the ones seen in videos on the web):

1. They use a disc saw to cut the wood. Apparently this is faster than a router

 

2. They have a continuous feed. They don't chuck up a short piece of wood. They cut the end of a longer board. I think this offers two efficiencies a) you cut to the very end of one side, B) You don;' have to cut and chuck up a new piece for each new lure.

 

3. They use motors, not tools like routers and angle grinders

 

4. The model they work off of is metal, all of them look like aluminum, maybe SS?

 

5. The guide that rides on the model have a wheel and bearing.

 

If I am going to produce wood cranks, I think one of these things is a necessity.

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