Fishhead15 Posted June 17, 2014 Report Share Posted June 17, 2014 I bought a used 5" plastci lunker punker awhile back that I wanted to repaint. when I got it in the mail it was cracked on both sides...i figured no big deal, I am going to seal it with epoxy anyway. it was holding and had caught a few fish but yesterday I banged it off a rock and it cracked again. anybody every have this happen with devcon 2 ton? can I just put another coat of devcon on it? (of course I would seal the entire bait) anything I should do to it before attempting to reseal? thanks Eric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbaas14 Posted June 17, 2014 Report Share Posted June 17, 2014 Ive had a couple crack after drilling a rock that were finished with devcon, not sure what you would do to reseal, I'm sure someone with more experience will chime in soon... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted June 17, 2014 Report Share Posted June 17, 2014 When you got it was the lure itself cracked or was is just the top coat? Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fishhead15 Posted June 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2014 Ben, the lure itself was cracked. now the devcon has cracked along the original crack on one side Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted June 17, 2014 Report Share Posted June 17, 2014 If it was me having this problem I would strip it down to bare plastic. I would then sand a slight bevel where the crack is and glue it with the 2 ton. You don't want to leave a big crack between the two mating surfaces that allows epoxy to run inside the bait. You just want to open it up enough to allow for a good bead of epoxy that has enough strength to hold the crack together. Be sure to clean it well before applying the epoxy. Once the epoxy has cured I would sand it down to match the surrounding area and then paint it with whatever color scheme I wanted. Not 100% sure what I would use as a top coat, but I'm thinking I would lean toward something like multiple coats of Etex. My thinking on this would be that since the Etex cures to a softer finish than epoxies used as glues it would be more forgiving than something that cured to a hard finish. It seems like it would have a bit of a cushioning effect that would help absorb shock from hard objects as well. I can't say that this will work without a doubt as I have not had this problem myself, but this would be the first thing I tried if I were in your situation. good luck, Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted June 17, 2014 Report Share Posted June 17, 2014 I might try using PVC cement, like used on PVC pipes - if you can compress the cracks so the plastic meets. The primer liquid for the cement comes in 2 forms - either clear or purple depending on state building codes where you live. They're the same except for the dye, which will print through acrylic paint. I shortened a Zara Spook a few years ago with PVC cement and it has lasted quite well. The cement dissolves the plastic at the joint and makes it into a single plastic surface, so you don't have to rely on the holding power of a regular glue. If you go the epoxy route, don't store the lure in a hot environment that can soften epoxy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted June 17, 2014 Report Share Posted June 17, 2014 I might try using PVC cement, like used on PVC pipes - if you can compress the cracks so the plastic meets. The primer liquid for the cement comes in 2 forms - either clear or purple depending on state building codes where you live. They're the same except for the dye, which will print through acrylic paint. I shortened a Zara Spook a few years ago with PVC cement and it has lasted quite well. The cement dissolves the plastic at the joint and makes it into a single plastic surface, so you don't have to rely on the holding power of a regular glue. If you go the epoxy route, don't store the lure in a hot environment that can soften epoxy. Didn't think of that Bob. What about the glue we used back when we were kids to glue model airplanes and cars together? If I remember correctly it dissolved the plastic at the joints as well. Now whether or not it's still made is another question entirely. Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fishhead15 Posted June 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2014 thank you both for your suggestions! I was hoping I wouldn't have to repaint it but that is not a big deal. how do i go about removing the devcon that is on there now? will probably try the pvc glue route since that is way easier for me to get. we have gallons of it at work... i have devcon, and i have been playing around with solarez and spraymax 2K, haven't tried Etex yet... Eric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted June 18, 2014 Report Share Posted June 18, 2014 Etex goes on relatively thin so multiple coats are needed if you decide to try it. One good thing about Etex is that it won't shatter. The downside is 3 to 4 coats are needed and that calculates into a good bit more time applying it and waiting for it to set up on the drying wheel. As for removing the existing D2T you'll probably have to sand it off. You might be able to scrape and pry it off if you can find an edge that you can get a knife blade under. Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted June 18, 2014 Report Share Posted June 18, 2014 If it's over acrylic latex paint, I can usually peel it off with the thin sharp blade of a small Swiss Army knife. I slice off a strip of epoxy, then use the blade to get under the epoxy and pry it off from there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
