ioiosoiwork Posted June 19, 2014 Report Share Posted June 19, 2014 I need somebody else's clear mind & eyes. I miss using my ol' Fred Arbogast Sputter Fuss style "buzz" baits, where the buzz blade is just in front of the lead body, I don't like them over the lead, nor do I like "r" bend wire forms. I have a wire former. WHAT I'm contemplating is buying the Do-It mold buzz keel bait mold Part Number 3457 And instead of using the suggested wire form, just using a straight piece in the mold, adding a metal bead bearing, buzz blade or prop blade, another metal bead bearing and then a closed eye. Will this work ? Am I missing something ?, I'm thinking the hook would still ride continuously up.....Right ? THANKS IN ADVANCE, Marty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smalljaw Posted June 20, 2014 Report Share Posted June 20, 2014 That should work, just make sure the beads are large enough for the blades to spin on. You also have to make sure the blades you buy will fit the wire you are going to use and I think that will be your biggest problem. The larger mold uses .050 wire, will your wire former handle that? You can use lighter wire since it is an in-line buzz bait but you will need some sort of high temp Teflon tape to put over the wire slot so it will hold a smaller diameter wire but it isn't hard, just make sure you know the limit of your wire former or you'll end up needing a new one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted June 20, 2014 Report Share Posted June 20, 2014 Could you put a hook in the mold, and add a buzz prop in front on a separate shaft with split rings, like a Snagproof Buzz Frog? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSC Posted June 20, 2014 Report Share Posted June 20, 2014 (edited) Another thought is the "Sputterfuss" has the wire weed guard ... mold mod or use a weighted hook .. I know you want the good old flat planner head and as close as I have seen is the head you referenced to .. I would Mod the mold to accept a hook so that you will have the hook eye to work with ... run the double weed guard thru the hook eye ... make a shaft with beads and blade and twist it on or use a split ring to connect. Just a quick early AM thought ... Good luck let us klnow what you do and how it turns out. (Looks like Mark & I Posted at the same time) Edited June 20, 2014 by JSC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted June 20, 2014 Report Share Posted June 20, 2014 Another thought is the "Sputterfuss" has the wire weed guard ... mold mod or use a weighted hook .. I know you want the good old flat planner head and as close as I have seen is the head you referenced to .. I would Mod the mold to accept a hook so that you will have the hook eye to work with ... run the double weed guard thru the hook eye ... make a shaft with beads and blade and twist it on or use a split ring to connect. Just a quick early AM thought ... Good luck let us klnow what you do and how it turns out. (Looks like Mark & I Posted at the same time) Great minds think alike! Hahaha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flbasspond Posted June 20, 2014 Report Share Posted June 20, 2014 I am going to swim against the current on this one...I dont believe it will work as well as you might suspect and here is my reasoning- in order to spin the blade at the maximum efficiency throughout the lenght of the cast the angle has to be relatively flat on the surface of the water.. if your ballast weight is in the rear the point of your line tie will always want to lay at a bad angle- meaning the blade wont spin as fast... thats why inline buzzbaits have a swivel point. I'm no scientist/engineer but I did spend many years building buzz and spinnerbaits.and have tried the direct body to blade wire design and could never make it work for me...even if i bent the wire coming out of the lead- it never ran consistently throughout the entire cast. You really have to smoke it in to keep the buzz blade turning. I realize its an extra step to add a connection point with split rings, loops, etc. but in this case I think it might be a neccesity. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ioiosoiwork Posted June 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2014 Thanks for your input gentlemen !!! I will buy the mold and see what will be entailed for a modification. I wonder why nobody continued the "sputterfuss" style ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...