wilderbssmstr Posted June 30, 2014 Report Share Posted June 30, 2014 (edited) Hello, There are a lot of topics that talk about painting jigs with some good info, but I am wondering if we can tackle this common concern in one thread. It may already exist, but I could not find it. Anyway, my long winded question is this: I pour jigs with the weed guard in. And when I go to powder paint I am having a hell of a time figuring out the best way to keep the weed guard from warping during the curing process. Currently, I use copper tubing cut to length that I cover the weed guard with, but this is still an imperfect science as the weed guard softens and bends in the oven and the copper gets extremely hot and can mess with the paint job around the base of the guard. I have tried pouring without the weed guard. Obviously, this makes painting and curing way easier. However, The paint then makes the weed guard hole too small for the FG-30 guard to go into. And even if I take the time to bore out each hole I have found that the super glue does not seem to do an adequate job of holding the guard, if at all. So, either I am using the wrong kind of super glue, doing something wrong with this process, or I have not figured out how to cure the jigs with the weed guard in them properly. Any advice on this topic would be appreciated. I am not overly new to this process, but have not been smart enough to figure out how to get this last hurdle jumped. I am now reaching out to the masses. What do you think of my dilemma? Edited June 30, 2014 by wilderbssmstr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smalljaw Posted June 30, 2014 Report Share Posted June 30, 2014 What you need to do is pour without the weed guard in, but instead of using a steel base hole pin, use the new Teflon type and then you can paint you jigs with the Teflon pin in place and you can even cure them with it in but it isn't necessary as I take them out and they are fine. If you paint with the Teflon pin in place the hole will not fill with paint and your weed guard will fit, you can use the steel pins but they are long and get very hot, the Teflon pins you can cut in half and the only way they get hot is if you hit them directly with your heat source. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jig Man Posted June 30, 2014 Report Share Posted June 30, 2014 Lots of us have been there. The way I do it is I pour with Teflon pins that I bought from Cadman. I tried the metal and didn't like them. I leave the pins in, paint and cure the jig heads. Then I remove the pins and pop the paint off them. After I have the jig skirted and the eyes on I glue the weed guard in. Some guys remove the pins before they cure the heads. I use Loctite Super Glue Gel and have not had any problems. Just be sure not to overfill the hole before you put in the wg. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cadman Posted June 30, 2014 Report Share Posted June 30, 2014 (edited) Like the guys above said. Teflon Pins. Metal pins are old school and a P.I.T.A. to pull out. I pour my jigs with Teflon pins. I pull them out and then I have a clean set of Teflon pins I stick back in for painting. Powder paint the jig , pull out the Teflon pin immediately put on rack and then bake all at one time. Now you will have a clean hole for your weedguard. Everyone has their way of doing things. There is no right or wrong way except what works for you. However I am a firm believer in baking(curing) powder painted jigs, it hardens the paint. Also I do believe that you get better adhesion whether you use gel superglue or epoxy with a clean weedguard hole. Also I have tried to pour with the weedguard in place, and that works fine, however as you have seen, powder painting does not work well with this process, unless you have your oven temp so low that it doesn't curl the weedguard. You can do that but if you decrease your heat temp, you must increase your heat time. This to me is too time consuming. Edited June 30, 2014 by cadman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BassBull Posted June 30, 2014 Report Share Posted June 30, 2014 Hello ...Like the guys have said above is to use a Teflon Pin. After you have put on your powder paint and while the jig is still hot .Take and SPIN the pin( 3 to 5 turns) without pulling it out right away. About 5 seconds at the most is needed and then pull the pin and you will have a perfectly round hole that will take your weed guard with out any trouble. This does work very well,good luck. STEVE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wilderbssmstr Posted July 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2014 Jig Man, I was wondering if you could elaborate on using POP for cleaning the Teflon pins? I use POP to make molds to pour plastics but am having a tough time envisioning how you clean powder paint off of Teflon pins with plaster. Cadman, you were mentioned as a place to get the Teflon pins. Do you have a website? Or a store maybe? I am from Illinois too - Champaign At any rate, thank you guys for the responses. As soon as I can get my hands on these new pins I hope to be having a much easier time pouring jigs. I wonder why the steel pins that come with the molds do not work as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jig Man Posted July 1, 2014 Report Share Posted July 1, 2014 Sorry that was an early morning brain fart. I have no idea where that came from. I just bend the pins and the paint pretty much pops off. Then I scrape them with my thumb nail. When I want them really clean I soak them in acetone then wipe them with a paper towel. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cadman Posted July 1, 2014 Report Share Posted July 1, 2014 (edited) wilderbssmstr, I sent you a PM. As far as why the steel pins don't work as well? It's not that they don't work, because all of us at one time including yourself had no other options. Also the steel metal pins work for what they are intended. The problem with the steel pins are : The problem was that when you poured the jig, with the metal pins, when the lead would cool, it would shrink. What this did was cause the pin to become very tight in the weedguard hole. Well now you have a metal pin in lead and you have friction. There were many times, when I literally had to twist off the metal pin in the jig head, or try to pull it off and either damaging the hook point by accidentally hitting it with the pliers, or worse yet stabbing myself with a hook point. Also back in the day, when powder painting, majority of us would powder paint the jig, and then drill out the weedguard hole from paint, because the paint would fill in. This was very time consuming. So then many tried to put the metal pin back into the weedguard hole when the jigs cooled. That didn't work, because you couldn't get the metal pins back in. The friction thing again. Then we would leave the metal pins in the head and then powder paint, but then if you wanted to pour 200 jigs you needed a lot of pins, also when you painted with the metal pins this way, when you took the pins ,if you could, you chipped the paint. Henceforth the advent of Teflon pins. Easy to put in, easy to take out, reusable for pouring and painting. Currently there is no easier way. Just a bit of history lesson going back to my 10 years of pouring and painting jigs. Edited July 1, 2014 by cadman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nedyarb Posted July 1, 2014 Report Share Posted July 1, 2014 Jig man...I think you typed in pop and it corrected it to plaster of Paris. Just guessing See it did it to me too....pop. Nevermind p o p Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cadman Posted July 1, 2014 Report Share Posted July 1, 2014 nedyarb, It did it to me as well. See my post under the thread "Modified Ultra Minnow Mold" 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted July 1, 2014 Report Share Posted July 1, 2014 (edited) You mean like soda p o p becoming soda plaster of paris if you don't space the p o p? You gotta love computers! Edited July 1, 2014 by mark poulson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jighead61 Posted July 10, 2014 Report Share Posted July 10, 2014 As others have suggested, the Teflon pins are the way to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darkman Posted July 11, 2014 Report Share Posted July 11, 2014 another vote for Teflon....they just make thing so much easier...peace Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gone2long Posted July 11, 2014 Report Share Posted July 11, 2014 Yep Teflon last forever easy to clean makes for a cleaner professional look to the end product. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wilderbssmstr Posted July 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2014 Thanks to everyone, especially Cadman, for the detailed information on the How-to. I am not sure how I missed the Teflon pins. I started pouring jigs and spinners about 15 years ago, but took a long hiatus. When I got back into it, I didn't bother doing any further research to see what was new. Anyway, thanks for all the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oldfart9999 Posted July 13, 2014 Report Share Posted July 13, 2014 For the jigs that take smaller weedguards, 5/64ths, no pins are made, you must pour the jig with the guard in, until now. I tried pouring with a couple if 5/64s drill bits, it worked. I wound up with drill rod that was cut to inch-inch & a quater lentgh, they can be pulled out your fingers which makes them easy to work with. The drill rod can be had at Graingers. Rodney Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
