Mad Moose Baits Posted July 5, 2014 Report Share Posted July 5, 2014 I have seen 2.1 VOC 4.2 VOC. etc. I know this means how much solids are in the mix, but what is best for spraying? Do they get to a point where they are hard to work with? Thanks in advance... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skeeter Posted July 6, 2014 Report Share Posted July 6, 2014 Moose, Well at least you understand something in the VOC reports. I don't. But, I can tell you that you want a real high solids in the Urethane Clear. For me, none of it is really tough enough. You can buy a flex additive for it. This is the stuff that they use on fiberglass fenders for cars. It will allow the clear to flex on impact and cause less cracking. The only thing that I use Urethane Clears for is plastic baits where weight is a consideration and any baits with sharp edges on it. (My Devcon cracks on sharp edges). Cheap clears just don't cut the mustard. They will flake off. It is just a waste of money. The good stuff will set you back over $100 for a quart of clear along with the hardner and retarder. I use PPG. I have never had any trouble spraying it. Shoot one coat and let it tack up good. Then shoot a second coat and let it set. I usually shoot 3 coats total. Hope this helps. Skeeter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted July 6, 2014 Report Share Posted July 6, 2014 VOC means "volatile organic compound", which is the stuff that will hurt you bad if you breathe it - typically isocyanate. The amount of solids in a urethane is usually stated as a percentage. Lesser brands don't say because they don't have a high percentage. The better ones do. From perusing some of the online stores, I think 50-60% would be a "high solids" urethane. All the good stuff comes as a 2 part finish that has to be mixed before spraying. Honestly, if you're gonna use it, you should be wearing a face mask rated to protect you from VOC's and observe ventilation safety procedures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhersh Posted July 7, 2014 Report Share Posted July 7, 2014 Moose! Bob P. Is totally correct on the safety precautions on this stuff. A friend of mine and I used to paint cars and he didn't take the precautions it called for and ended up getting really sick from it. Use good ventilation and a good mask this stuff is highly volital also so make sure there are no open flames like pilot lites around where you are working. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted July 7, 2014 Report Share Posted July 7, 2014 Moose! Bob P. Is totally correct on the safety precautions on this stuff. A friend of mine and I used to paint cars and he didn't take the precautions it called for and ended up getting really sick from it. Use good ventilation and a good mask this stuff is highly volital also so make sure there are no open flames like pilot lites around where you are working. I also had a friend who used auto finishes to do custom finishes on sheet metal work, but without the safety precautions. We lost him to blood cancer. Be careful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skeeter Posted July 8, 2014 Report Share Posted July 8, 2014 The guys are right in the warnings that they give when using this stuff. But it is not death in a can. However, let's get one thing straight right now...... there is NO FILTER that will catch isocanates. Isocanates are known to cause cancer. The reason that you wear a good filter is to keep the clear out of your lungs. ALL SOLVENT BASED paints and clears will not dilute or wash out with water. So what you inhale can stay in your lungs a long time. This includes enamels, lacquers, urethanes, urethane clears, MCU, etc. So it is important that you protect yourself with a good respirator, filters, and good ventilation. Very few of us here will ever shoot the amount of paint that a car painter will. Hughesy probably shoots more paint in 1 month than most of us do in 5 years. (And I am not kidding on that one). Maybe he would chime in and help us with some good safety suggestions. But the results of GOOD lacquer and urethane paints are just wonderful. When mixed properly they shoot like velvet dry very quickly and is tough as nails. I have been shooting lacquers for 14 yrs. and I am not brain dead yet. I buy clear lacquer and mix my own colors from pigment. Lacquer paints were pretty much abandoned by car enthusiasts because it was not the easiest to use. Urethanes were much easier. But to this day, guys that want to paint cars with deep, deep, paint jobs still use lacquers. Take a look at some of the cars of Chip Foose. Just try some. You may like it. Skeeter 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted July 8, 2014 Report Share Posted July 8, 2014 Skeeter, I remember, from a former life, that the guys who had really deep lacquer paint jobs on their cars, the result of the build-up of multiple layers, used to only bring their cars out at night. I can still see the candy apple red hot rods with finishes so deep it looked like the red went on forever. The sun used to kill those paint jobs really quickly, if I recall correctly. Are the paints and finishes you're using now different than what was used back then, in the '50s and early '60s? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sonoman Posted July 8, 2014 Report Share Posted July 8, 2014 Hand rubbed lacquers are extremely durable, and look like a million bucks but this process is extremely labor intensive and just not done very often, everythings basecoat / clearcoat these days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathan Posted July 8, 2014 Report Share Posted July 8, 2014 I grew up in Ca....Does any one remember the "velvet" paint jobs of the late 60's-early 70's?.. The cars looked like they were painted with velvet.I have no Idea how it was done..apparently it didn't wear well...The trend died off fast !!...Nathan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skeeter Posted July 9, 2014 Report Share Posted July 9, 2014 Lacquer paint is not made with just one type of formula. Lacquers are made with different ingredients. Therefore, there are different types of lacquers. Personally, I am not ready to share what type I use. But, it is extremely durable and tough. The secret to getting a deep looking paint job is retarder. Pearls and Candies work best. And the base coat that is used is just as critical. Multiple coats of thinned and retarded lacquer are shot over the base. So how many is multiple coats? Well, the two baits that you see im my icon have 32 coats of black lacquer on the back stripe. On the first shoot you can barely see any black in it at all. It takes a lot of patience and time just to do the back stripe on one bait. One of the stripes is shot over a gold and another is shot over a pearlized metallic silver. At one time it was used on Ferraries. You can start using interference pigments and get the same type of effects that Yuki Ito gets on some of his baits. I learned this from a member on this site. He has painted many baits for FLW pros. The gold bait is still in my collection. It is my first lacquer painted bait. The silver one is in the collection of the guy that told me how to do it. If the paint jobs on the old hot rods faded out was probably because of the paint and the clearcoats. I don't even know if the term "UV Protection" was even used back then. However, I don't think that you can buy paint like it was formulated in the 50s and 60s anymore. Paint and clearcoat formulas have come such a long way since then. And what about the old baits from the 40s and 50s? No Devcon or whatever on them. Straight clear lacquer protected those baits. Skeeter 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhersh Posted July 9, 2014 Report Share Posted July 9, 2014 Lacquer paint is not made with just one type of formula. Lacquers are made with different ingredients. Therefore, there are different types of lacquers. Personally, I am not ready to share what type I use. But, it is extremely durable and tough. The secret to getting a deep looking paint job is retarder. Pearls and Candies work best. And the base coat that is used is just as critical. Multiple coats of thinned and retarded lacquer are shot over the base. So how many is multiple coats? Well, the two baits that you see im my icon have 32 coats of black lacquer on the back stripe. On the first shoot you can barely see any black in it at all. It takes a lot of patience and time just to do the back stripe on one bait. One of the stripes is shot over a gold and another is shot over a pearlized metallic silver. At one time it was used on Ferraries. You can start using interference pigments and get the same type of effects that Yuki Ito gets on some of his baits. I learned this from a member on this site. He has painted many baits for FLW pros. The gold bait is still in my collection. It is my first lacquer painted bait. The silver one is in the collection of the guy that told me how to do it. If the paint jobs on the old hot rods faded out was probably because of the paint and the clearcoats. I don't even know if the term "UV Protection" was even used back then. However, I don't think that you can buy paint like it was formulated in the 50s and 60s anymore. Paint and clearcoat formulas have come such a long way since then. And what about the old baits from the 40s and 50s? No Devcon or whatever on them. Straight clear lacquer protected those baits. Skeeter Ok Steeter. Time to give up and share the info. Lol JK. Nice Baits and thanks for the info you did give. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mad Moose Baits Posted July 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2014 Thanks for all the info guys and the stories about the hot rods! What should I look for in a respirator? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted July 9, 2014 Report Share Posted July 9, 2014 You need an "organic vapor" type. Got mine at Lowe's for around $35 if my memory is working today. Pretty sure this respirator has the highest rating (meaning it filters the smallest particulate size) commonly available. Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
