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Heating Plastic

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I'm new to the hobby guys, so forgive me.  I've decided to go with presto pots, rather than Pyrex.  When starting with new plastic, can you simply pour it in the pots and let it get up to temp, stirring occasionally?  Also, what's the best way of reheating my scrap plastic pieces to reuse?  Can I also do that in the presto pots?

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Thanks Guys!  I'm looking at doing 16oz batches in each pot and using a twinjector for doing laminates.  The other thing I'm totally clueless on is adding the color to plastic.  I'm using M-F colors and plastic.  Lets say if I'm going to do chartreuse, how many drops would I need for 16 oz??

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You will find that each brand of colors will vary.  All fluorescent colors MUST be mixed before the plastic is heated.  I've found this works better with chartreuse too. 

 

As for MF, that's a great color choice with only a few I had a hard time working with.  Pumpkin, for example, is extremely light.  I don't think I could mix enough pumpkin to achieve the color I was looking for.  LOL.  I eventually went to Lure Craft for that one, but for the most part you should be fine. 

 

A good general rule for most colors (and I use the term "most" lightly), is one drop per ounce of plastic.  Then again, I've never worked with larger amounts like the 16 ounces you mentioned.  I was old school and always mixed 4 ounces at a time. 

 

Most importantly, write everything down.  Once you DO get that color you're looking for, you don't wanna have to do that trial and error thing again!

 

Best of luck.  :)

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You will find that each brand of colors will vary.  All fluorescent colors MUST be mixed before the plastic is heated.  I've found this works better with chartreuse too. 

 

As for MF, that's a great color choice with only a few I had a hard time working with.  Pumpkin, for example, is extremely light.  I don't think I could mix enough pumpkin to achieve the color I was looking for.  LOL.  I eventually went to Lure Craft for that one, but for the most part you should be fine. 

 

A good general rule for most colors (and I use the term "most" lightly), is one drop per ounce of plastic.  Then again, I've never worked with larger amounts like the 16 ounces you mentioned.  I was old school and always mixed 4 ounces at a time. 

 

Most importantly, write everything down.  Once you DO get that color you're looking for, you don't wanna have to do that trial and error thing again!

 

Best of luck.  :)

Excellent advice there, I agree, I start with a drop an once, a handy thing to do when testing is make a 1oz or 2 oz batch and just pour it into any mold, don't worry about filling it out, but at least you'll get a perspective on what the finished product will look like, remember any glitter used can dramatically change the colour, plus glitter can bleed into your colour if you overcook it.

 

MF is a good start for colours, they mightn't be as strong as others, or as value, but the range is wide, and you can determine your favorites and then look at other options down the track.

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I heat my plastic in the microwave, making sure to stop and stir it in the mid 200 range.  It usually is still gelled but it seems to get the heat distributed.  Then I zap it a bit longer aiming for a bit over 300.  

 

I then add all ingredients.  If I dally too long I give it another short zap so it pours well into the Presto Pot.  

Sprues get zapped and added back.  If using light colors, added heat often darkens or yellows the plastic so go easy.

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Thanks Guys!  I'm looking at doing 16oz batches in each pot and using a twinjector for doing laminates.  The other thing I'm totally clueless on is adding the color to plastic.  I'm using M-F colors and plastic.  Lets say if I'm going to do chartreuse, how many drops would I need for 16 oz??

Don't be alarmed when you get air bubbles in bait, you are starting with the amount of plastic I stop at. The presto is so wide it's hard to get all the plastic up. If you have this issue either use more plastic or go to Pyrex and a microwave. I still use the Pyrex till I need a half gallon of each color them I go to a presto pot. To me it is much easier to keep a large amount of plastic at temp than a small amount.

On the Mf chartreuse question, I get a good looking color with 30ccs to 32ozs. It's a lot of colorant. That is the non bleed one.

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Frank, I think I've watched a bunch of your YouTube videos? Have you injected the 660 4 cavity swim bait mold? If not, it's a 3.75" bait. If you or anyone had to guess, how much plastic do you think it would take to shoot that mold? I'm trying to get an idea of how many of those baits I can get from a gallon of plastic.

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Frank, I think I've watched a bunch of your YouTube videos? Have you injected the 660 4 cavity swim bait mold? If not, it's a 3.75" bait. If you or anyone had to guess, how much plastic do you think it would take to shoot that mold? I'm trying to get an idea of how many of those baits I can get from a gallon of plastic.

I don't know how many but I do have that mold. All of mine are top inject. So I weigh them with sprue to get a price. My name on you tube is franksrooty2 so if you watched him it was me.

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Monitor your plastisol temperatures w/ an IR(infrared Gun) whether you heat w/ a microwave or presto pot w/ stirrors.Lighter colors can easily change if heated to high for prolonged periods.Keep accurate records as experimenting & experience is your best teacher.The Shooting StarSystem from Bear'sBaits-

http://www.bearsbaits.com/   is an economical system to inject  two color baits w/ a heated twin injector. The blending block will require periodic cleaning and replacement of internal "O" rings.

 

edited for spelling

Edited by smallmouthaholic
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When mixing fluorescent colors with cold plastic, what do you do if you need to add more color once it's hot and you can see the actual color?

 

That's a tough question, and I'm afraid the answer is.......you can't!  LOL  Seriously, if you add flo colors to hot plastic, it will just come out in small clumps in the finished product. 

 

Best thing to do is add a drop per ounce of plastic before heating, and once you get it right, write that sucker down so you know next time. 

 

I had a miserable time trying to make bubble gum until someone told me the stuff needs to be pre-mixed before cooking.....and voila......it worked!  And edgecrusher also made a great point about the glitter.  Keep in mind that most glitters will greatly effect your colors.  Example: a decent amount of black glitter will make any color darker. 

 

Once I began making a decent bait, I usually mixed everything in cold plastic because I had all my recipes written down.  This way I didn't forget anything, and it worked great. 

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When mixing fluorescent colors with cold plastic, what do you do if you need to add more color once it's hot and you can see the actual color?

Get spike it's flor colors and add it to hot plastic no worries with there's. They were designed to be put in hot plastic. I do it all the time cause I forget to put it in before more times than not.

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Guys when you're making a color in cold plastic, how does it look then, compared to when it's hot and ready to pour? Does the milky color of cold plastic deceive you on how the color will actually look?

Yes it will. Count your drops in cold plastic-keep records. Chartreuse,orange/pumpkin,junebug and fluorescent blue are some that require approximately 20-30 drops per 16 oz. of plastisol

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Frank, where do you get those rubber gloves you use for injecting?  They look much less clumsy than the normal high heat gloves.

The ones in the video I can't find anymore but been using the same type but more of a name brand called maxi flex. I got them from a welding supply but amazon has them and you can buy singles, I bought a dozen pair. Much better gloves than the ones in the video. If you need more protection just put another one over the first one.

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Guys, is color proportional?  By that, I mean if I make a great color with so many drops of this and that in 4oz of plastic, can I multiply the drops of colors by 4 and make 16oz of plastic with the same result?  I would think so, but I'm just starting.  I would like to come up with a bunch a great mixes in small batches them roll with them in 16oz or 32oz production runs.

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   Yes and no, small batchs like that might look correct, but sometimes as you go larger batches it will show any measurments that were not exact. But if your recipe' was exact, it will be, meaning, if you have a large batch recipe' and you down size proportionately it will be correct. But remember if your makin a lure of a smaller size and it looks correct and you decide to make some much thicker lures, you need to adjust recipe to compensate for thickness of the bigger lure because it will look much darker, ect.

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