Airbrushing Walleye Spinner Blades

[noahhumfeld@yahoo.com]

Hey everybody,

I've got a question for anybody who paints spinner blades with an airbrush: do you need to use some sort of primer or clear coat prior to painting? I fish walleye tournaments and have thousands of blades, and have recently gotten into custom painting crankbaits, and am looking into doing the same with blades. I have several patterns that I love which seem to simply have the paint sprayed directly onto the bare metal, with a clear coat over the top. I use createx paints, would just painting on the bare metal work? Thanks!!

[BobP]

I paint Createx directly on metal lures and topcoat it with Dick Nite Moisture Cured Urethane type S81.  Works well and it's durable.  Dick Nite also sells solvent based paint that he uses on the spoons his company produces, and it's even more durable than water based acrylic.

[noahhumfeld@yahoo.com]

Awesome! I'm assuming to get the best adhesion, I should probably use some type of degreaser or acetone?

[woodieb8]

painting on chrome blades needs a special process. createxor standard laxquers will not hold period. . . if your buying blades from a supplier buy white and paint over or be prepared for ventilation and a respirator. I do thousands weekly for manufactures.

[Anglinarcher]

It sounds like you are going to paint up for your own use, so some differences to what production guys do may be had.

 

1) If I am going to buy spinner blades to paint, I buy the brass.  You can buy cheap steel blades, but they tend to rust and the water based paint I use can cause issues. 

 

2) If I am going to use Brass, they will still corrode on any unpainted surface, so keep that in mind.  The cheap steel blades will rust.  Now, as suggested by Woodieb8, buying white is not a bad idea.

 

3) Neither material will give you true colors if you don't at least use a base coat of white.  Call it a primer if you wish.

 

For my use, I figure I will snag the blades soon enough that I don't need one that is "bullet proof".  I do a quick rinse of my blades in rubbing alcohol then hang them by the eye to dry.  I mist them with a polyurethane rattle can spray, normally white.  If I want to keep the polished brass or bright silver color on the back, then I will use clear on the back, white on the front.  I then use thin coats of my desired colors on the front of the blades.  I find that if I place the blades on wax paper when I do the color coat, they won't stick if I keep the coats thin and let them dry between coats (few minutes at most).

 

I seldom, if ever, bother to clear coat over the final color, but remember, I figure I will loose it soon enough.  If you want to clear coat, for personal use, use the clear polyurethane rattle can again.  Keep in thin. 

 

Now I really doubt that you would have any trouble selling these blades if you wanted.  Mine turn out at least as well, if not better, then the ones I buy from the tackle box stores.  Nevertheless, if you want a more bullet proof clear coat, then perhaps Bob's advice is best.  Only a thin coat should be used.  SolarRez works ok, but it can dull a little. 

 

As for painting over Chrome, well that depends on if it is truly Chrome.  Most blades we buy anymore are not true Chrome, but, if it is, then I cannot see why one would want to hide the chrome.  But, if you want to highlight over the chrome, a clear coat of Polyurethane will indeed stick to the blade.  Maybe not well enough for the high quality production guys, but for my limited life span in the water behind a bottom bouncer, ....... it will last more then long enough.  Then paint as before.

 

Give it a try and you will see that it works quite well.  The proof is indeed in the pudding this time.

 

Steve 

[ddl]

up . as george said it will not stick to chrome at all. you have to use a special paint that need to be backed but i don't know the brand . maybe someone want to share the process ?

[woodieb8]

On ‎7‎/‎18‎/‎2014 at 3:32 PM, noahhumfeld@yahoo.com said:

Hey everybody,

I've got a question for anybody who paints spinner blades with an airbrush: do you need to use some sort of primer or clear coat prior to painting? I fish walleye tournaments and have thousands of blades, and have recently gotten into custom painting crankbaits, and am looking into doing the same with blades. I have several patterns that I love which seem to simply have the paint sprayed directly onto the bare metal, with a clear coat over the top. I use createx paints, would just painting on the bare metal work? Thanks!!

 

[woodieb8]

any blade sprayed with candy paint or see thru paint on plated blades will definatly peel/flake. every spoon/blade manufacturer realizes the curse..they look pretty but don't hold up.plating seals the pourous holes in blades/spoons. theres nothing to bite onto. .

[Tomchip2]

On 7/19/2014 at 6:15 PM, woodieb8 said:

painting on chrome blades needs a special process. createxor standard laxquers will not hold period. . . if your buying blades from a supplier buy white and paint over or be prepared for ventilation and a respirator. I do thousands weekly for manufactures.

I purchased a rather large number of blades and was surprised/disappointed to discover that the “white” was an oil-based enamel.  Createx water-based paint over this type paint I am told will have issues.  You might consider purchasing raw steel (cheaper), clean with degreaser, light sanding, then apply rattle can self-etching primer.  From there move to auto borne sealer, paint, topcoat.