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My Balsa Splits When I Drill?

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That is one of the problems with working with balsa.

Sharp bits are really important.

I find that clamping it somehow and using a drill press gives cleaner holes, but it tears, no matter what.

You might also try coating it with runny super glue first, to bind the surface fibers and make them stronger.

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Seal with super glue first. This will provide a hard shell that will help avoid tear out. Sharp bits are a MUST. After trying to use cheaper bits and constantly dealing with the same problems your having I invested in a couple of quality Forstner bits. Each bit cost in the neighborhood of $15. Expensive, but well worth it. Lastly try running your bit in reverse when starting your hole. Apply pressure while running the bit in reverse and this will cut the wood grain at the surface of the hole without digging into the wood. Once the surface grain is cut you can then switch the drill to forward and continue drilling. Once you've switched into forward just remember not to force the bit into the wood. Using light pressure will allow the bit to cut the wood instead of tearing it.

 

Ben

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Honestly drill bits are great for some things but  others they are very poor choices and anytime you need a clean hole the "do it all drill bit" is a poor decision.  Yes you can make do with drill bits and do all sorts of nifty little tricks and to get it to work right or just choose the right tool and do it once and be done with it.   

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Honestly drill bits are great for some things but  others they are very poor choices and anytime you need a clean hole the "do it all drill bit" is a poor decision.  Yes you can make do with drill bits and do all sorts of nifty little tricks and to get it to work right or just choose the right tool and do it once and be done with it.   

 

Would you care to mention what it is your drilling holes with and can it be used in a hand drill?

 

Ben

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Ben I am in line with your thinking of using the Forstner bit.

 

The general purpose do it all bits are great for the weekend handyman type work but they are made to tackle anything you come across and don't excel at anything just do most satisfactory.   As described above many ways to get a hole made but all involve a lot more effort and time both in initial prep then also on the end when you are trying to get a good finish.  I used a dremel in the past when we were visiting the in laws.    All the tips above are great in you have to go that route but definitely not something I would be building into the "method" of making cranks especially if the OP has intentions of trying to do this on any sort of scale (based on his other thread).

 

I use Forstner bit 99.9% of the time in my drill press and have used them in the hand drill but rarely.   A brad point bit will also work better than common drill bits.  Both these are designed for drilling in wood.   I never had any issues with drilling a clean hole in balsa, no precoating necessary.  I drill all my holes in the block when square.    I also do sharpen them when needed with a little triangle file.  Definitely easier with drill press as much easier to control.  No over aggressive drilling, the blank stays secure in my vise so no give.  It gives uniform consistent results in a fraction of the time. 

 

The cost in a forstner bit isn't that much and especially when one starts looking at buying cranks and the results and time saved worth it for me as shop time is limited.  Wasting time trying to get something to work isn't for me.  

Edited by Travis
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Thanks Travis. And your right about trying to mass produce baits and just building a few at a time like I do. If it takes me an hour to drill all the holes in a bait it is of little consequence to me as I would be considered a hobby builder. When your trying to produce baits for sale then time is money.

 

Ben

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I have two solutions to this problem:

 

1 - I drill all holes while the blank is still square, as I do the hook slot. This minimizes the effect of the wood breaking up around the hole.

 

2 - I start off with a 1/8" diameter drill and increase the diameter is small increments. This may take six or more drill operations.

 

2a - I run all the drills in reverse.

 

Using either or both of these methods, I never have any problems.

 

Dave

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A sharp Forstner bit in a slow speed drill press is the best way to cut holes cleanly in balsa that's been hardened with super glue.

They are expensive, but they are truly a blessing for lure builders.  Just be sure not to use them for regular drilling, so they are sharp and ready when you need them for the important stuff.

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