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Nathan

Ac1315 Concrete Sealer Top Coat

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I tend to agree with Bob. I also believe it has to do with the length of time the finish stays moist before it hardens. It seems that concrete sealer reacts with the paint if it remains wet to long. I would guess cooler temps allows for longer drying times also. I would say the quicker you can get concrete sealer dry the less time it will have to react with the paint. They don't play well together. Musky Glenn

 

Cooler weather and air temps may be a problem.

Heating your lures before you dip them might help.   I actually hit them with a hair dryer before I dip them, just in case they have any moisture left on them.

Also, storing the AC1315 at room temperature might help, too.

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I think Bob has it. It is probably the Xylene. There are different evaporation (flash) rates to thinners. The one that evaporates the quickest (hot) is acetone. Then comes Methel Ethyl Keytone (MEK), lacquer thinner and then Xylene. Since Xylene is the slowest to flash then it will stay wet (active) on your paint longer causing a greater chance of it affecting your paint.

 

Other things that can cause paint sagging is shooting too thick of a coat or multiple coats before the one before it is completely dry. As Ben would say.... just my 2 cents.

 

Skeeter

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Wrinkling is caused by either a solvent reacting with an underlying paint, or because the film strength of the top coat is so strong it pulls on the weaker underlying paint so hard it actually pulls it apart, like with crackle finishes.

Air brush paint that is not properly dried is still weak.  That goes for thick coats that never truly get heat set.

Properly dried acrylic paint won't be affected by AC1315, in my experience.  The same goes for other urethane coatings, nail polishes, and epoxy finishes.  I've dipped all of them now, and had no wrinkling.  

I even rushed my paint job on a lure, going as fast as I could without skipping a step, just to see how it would be affected.  Did I mention I'm not a very patient person?  Hahaha  Once I decide to paint a bait, I want it done as quickly as possible.  For me, a well painted lure is a tool for me to catch fish, not a work of art.  You can see that in my paint jobs.   :wink:

I dried each thin coat very well, though, because I was trying to eliminate any weaknesses that might give me a false reading.

I have painted and dipped several plastic knockoff baits now, and there were no problems.

I dip cleaned the baits in acetone first, shot on Wildlife, Wicked, and Createx colors, and then dipped them once in the AC1315.  I hung them outside to drip back into the open AC1315 container, and then moved them into my garage, once they stopped dripping, to dry.  I hit them with a hair dryer once they had lost the wet look. 

From start to finish, the process took two hours, with cleaning the air brush between colors and at the end, and the hour it took for the top coat to become dry/hard enough to put the hooks on.

I fished them two days after they were finished, and one coat held up to grass, rocks, and some stripers.

This is not the magic top coat, but it is a good one.

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I think Bob has it. It is probably the Xylene. There are different evaporation (flash) rates to thinners. The one that evaporates the quickest (hot) is acetone. Then comes Methel Ethyl Keytone (MEK), lacquer thinner and then Xylene. Since Xylene is the slowest to flash then it will stay wet (active) on your paint longer causing a greater chance of it affecting your paint.

 

Other things that can cause paint sagging is shooting too thick of a coat or multiple coats before the one before it is completely dry. As Ben would say.... just my 2 cents.

 

Skeeter

I spoke to the folks before I bought a quart. It is xylene ........ I asked about shelf life ....... They said to mix a little Xylene if it got thicker

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I dipped a bunch of different types of baits last week. IMO this stuff is just OK. I like the fact that the 1315 dries a little quicker than gst but I don't think it has the same shine. It looked better on some round bodied rapala repaints than it did on the flat sided cranks that I make. I did 4 coats instead of the 3 I would normally do with gst. Like I said on the repaints it's OK just a little flat, doesn't add much depth to the paint job. On the flat sides I make it didn't lay itself level, it streaked and got worst with each coat. Almost like after I dipped the baits and hung them it picked different paths to run down the sides of the bait. It's not a smooth finish like I get with gst. Almost like there are runs down the sides of the baits. Might level out better on a lure turner?

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After making sure my paint was dried and heated well I've had zero issues with wrinkling and have been very pleased with how it's turned out. Fished a Pop-R blank I painted just for this and no hook rash after an hour or two and a few fish catches. I hope it continues to work well in the cold.

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barr,

Have you tried only dipping it once?

So far, one dip coat has been plenty for my bass lures.  

Maybe it doesn't lay down with multiple dips because it is thicker than the GST, and that's why, for me, it only requires one dip coat.  

It does have solvent in it, and it can be dry to the touch, but soft, in 15-20 minutes.

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Pardon my horrible auto correct error. Pop-r blank is what I meant to say.

In regards to Barry, I've been dipping twice. The instructions recommends no more than 2 coats. I dip once then wait 3-4 hours dipping again and it's ready for hooks in 2 hours.

Popper stupid auto correct

Edited by PondBoss
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Pardon my horrible auto correct error. Pop-r blank is what I meant to say.

In regards to Barry, I've been dipping twice. The instructions recommends no more than 2 coats. I dip once then wait 3-4 hours dipping again and it's ready for hooks in 2 hours.

Pop-r damn auto correct

 

The "auto correct" isn't anything that's wrong on your end. It seems to have something to do with some sort of bug left over from a previous site update. At one time several of us worked to create a glossary of abbreviations, nicknames, etc. that were commonly used in discussions. When you typed a certain word or phrase it was supposed to highlight it in blue and clicking on it would then carry you to it's location in the glossary. This was done to make it easier on newcomers to the site who weren't familiar with "TU Speak".

 

Not sure why, but p-o-p seems to be the only word that the current problem is effected by. As long as you put a space or dash between the letters it doesn't end up as "Plaster of Paris", but if you spell the word pop it changes it as soon as the message is posted.

 

Ben

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One coat for me came out with less shine than solarez that's why I kept going. Its way thinner gst. It feels more like dick nites to me just doesn't have the shine. Same potent smell as gst though.

I have found that it is thinner than Solarez, too, but I get a gloss finish with one dip coat.  

I dipped one knockoff in Solarez, and another identical knockoff in AC1315, and the cured out Solarez weight almost 1/2 gram more than the AC1315.

I wonder if the fact that I dip it outside, and let it drip back into the container before I move it inside to dry/cure has anything to do with it.  Maybe the solvent dissipates faster outside, so it drips less off before it begins to set.  I know, if I use my finger to remove the last drips while it's still outside, when I bring it in to hang there is very little left when I put a paper towel up against the bottom hook hanger for a final cleaning before it hangs untouched.  

I do hit it with a hair dryer after 15-20 minutes, once it's "dry" to the touch.  Maybe the hair dryer is changing how it dries.  I have no idea.

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I do all mine inside Mark and they are nice and shiny.  Has far more gloss than Solarez.  I also haven't hit it with heat yet because I haven't had a need.  I do put on 2 coats though.  I have 36 baits hanging right now and they are all shiny with no runs or drips.

 

Glad to hear it's working for you.

I dip outside because of the smell, and have a fan at the back of the garage blowing air from the open door in back out through the open door in front.  I can't take the smell any more.

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I just posted two photos in the hardbaits gallery.  

I fished them both hard yesterday, and they both looked the same as when I first finished them, when I cut them off this morning and took the pictures.

P.S.  the "More Options" tab at the bottom of this page really makes adding pictures easy.

recoated lures.jpg

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Edited by mark poulson
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Will using a lure turner work with this finish on balsa cranks?  I was planning on sealing them with devcon thinned, or is dipping and hanging the best method.  Do you always hang from the bill, even if you do more than one coat, or do you hang from the tail on the second dip.  Are you guys taping the bills or dipping uncovered?

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I also have dipped the bills, and it stays clear.

I dip wiggle warts, too, and hang them tail down to dry.  I just use a paper towel to remove the last little buildup after I've removed the last actual drip with my finger.  

Once this stuff has stopped dripping it skins over pretty quickly, and doesn't run or sag any more.

 

After it's hung long enough to be dry looking, I hit it with a hair dryer on low to speed the drying.  I have fished them the next day with no problems, but I'd let them cure an extra day if I were going to be grinding them along a rocky bottom.

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I have a cabinet built with a 100 watt heat lamp in it set on a line voltage thermostat with a computer fan in it to circulate air inside the cabinet - I set it for 90 degrees and dry my painted baits for a day in it then dipped baits in it overnight and they are ready to roll- I think a little heat does wonders for this stuff

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Ok, here are a couple of bluegill swims that I dipped twice in AC1315.  These baits must be taken apart before dipping.

bluegill.JPG

bluegill2.JPG

For those that are familiar with these blanks I cut the bottom fin off of the blank.  It catches the hooks too much and ends up with alot of hook rash on that fin.  I drill a hole in the top and bottom and push the hinge pin out.  I then paint, clear coat, and then epoxy the hinge pin back in.

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