aaarneson Posted October 27, 2014 Report Share Posted October 27, 2014 Look for a mold to create a vibrating jig/chatterbait style swim jig. With or with out the split ring connection. What is a good one? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Apdriver Posted October 27, 2014 Report Share Posted October 27, 2014 I use the "Weedless Style S Bass Jig" from Do It. Their part number is 3316. I prefer to not use a split ring but open the hook eye and install the blade. I like the Mustad 32798 as my hook and prefer the 4/0 or 5/0. No weed guard for this application and use a Teflon base hole pin and position it to just plug the weedguard slot at the edge of the cavity. If you want more pics and detail PM me. Here's a pic of finished jig. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cadman Posted October 27, 2014 Report Share Posted October 27, 2014 You can also use the banana spinnerbait head, cut wire and re-bend to fit to your liking. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aaarneson Posted October 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2014 (edited) I was thinking of this one and using a split ring. http://www.barlowstackle.com/Do-It-Arky-Weedless-Jig-Mold-P252C56.aspx Edited October 27, 2014 by aaarneson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Apdriver Posted October 27, 2014 Report Share Posted October 27, 2014 ^^^^^^That will certainly work^^^^^ If you would rather use the regular eye and open the hook to install the blade, this is how I do that. I have a piece of metal stock and drill a hole in it as close to the edge as you can get it. Make the hole just large enough to relieve the tip of a center punch, but small enough to catch the radius of the eye of your hook. Lay your eye on the hole and take a center punch and open the eye up with it. Make take a couple blows to get it just right. Go easy and open that hook eye up just enough to slip your blade under it. Be sure to bend all your blades first and install in the proper orientation. Close your eye with a stout pair of pliers. One other trick that I have learned and wanted to share is how to keep the powder paint off your hook eye. You need to paint the head before you install the blade and the hook eye needs to be clean so the blade will work correctly. I found some foil tape that had a thin adhesive on it covered with paper. Perfect for cutting to size and covering that hook eye to powder and will withstand the heat. Remove the tape before you bake the paint to cure it. Here's a photo or two. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted October 27, 2014 Report Share Posted October 27, 2014 ^^^^^^That will certainly work^^^^^ If you would rather use the regular eye and open the hook to install the blade, this is how I do that. I have a piece of metal stock and drill a hole in it as close to the edge as you can get it. Make the hole just large enough to relieve the tip of a center punch, but small enough to catch the radius of the eye of your hook. Lay your eye on the hole and take a center punch and open the eye up with it. Make take a couple blows to get it just right. Go easy and open that hook eye up just enough to slip your blade under it. Be sure to bend all your blades first and install in the proper orientation. Close your eye with a stout pair of pliers. One other trick that I have learned and wanted to share is how to keep the powder paint off your hook eye. You need to paint the head before you install the blade and the hook eye needs to be clean so the blade will work correctly. I found some foil tape that had a thin adhesive on it covered with paper. Perfect for cutting to size and covering that hook eye to powder and will withstand the heat. Remove the tape before you bake the paint to cure it. Here's a photo or two.image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg What brand hook are you using? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aaarneson Posted October 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2014 ^^^^^^That will certainly work^^^^^ If you would rather use the regular eye and open the hook to install the blade, this is how I do that. I have a piece of metal stock and drill a hole in it as close to the edge as you can get it. Make the hole just large enough to relieve the tip of a center punch, but small enough to catch the radius of the eye of your hook. Lay your eye on the hole and take a center punch and open the eye up with it. Make take a couple blows to get it just right. Go easy and open that hook eye up just enough to slip your blade under it. Be sure to bend all your blades first and install in the proper orientation. Close your eye with a stout pair of pliers. One other trick that I have learned and wanted to share is how to keep the powder paint off your hook eye. You need to paint the head before you install the blade and the hook eye needs to be clean so the blade will work correctly. I found some foil tape that had a thin adhesive on it covered with paper. Perfect for cutting to size and covering that hook eye to powder and will withstand the heat. Remove the tape before you bake the paint to cure it. Here's a photo or two.image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg Perfect....Thanks! Where can one find that foil tape? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aaarneson Posted October 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2014 Nevermind...I see that Home Depot has some as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Apdriver Posted October 27, 2014 Report Share Posted October 27, 2014 Hook is a Mustad 32798. I really like the 5/0 but you may have to use the 4/0 on a 3/8. Can't recall. I'm thinking you can find the tape at Home Depot or that. I found my piece of a roll in my attic some workers left. When I saw it the light bulb went on and also bells and whistles because I have been looking for a product to help with this for a long time. If you've ever fought cured powder paint, you know where I'm coming from. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuckMaxx Posted October 28, 2014 Report Share Posted October 28, 2014 I too use banana heads. I have a couple different molds including the doit and some lil mac that I have buying off of ebay of various sizes up to 1 oz. I open the eyes the same way as Ap does but with Gamy hooks I find that about 1 in 5 breaks. Teflon plumbers tape does the same thing on the eyes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted October 28, 2014 Report Share Posted October 28, 2014 (edited) Hook is a Mustad 32798. I really like the 5/0 but you may have to use the 4/0 on a 3/8. Can't recall. I'm thinking you can find the tape at Home Depot or that. I found my piece of a roll in my attic some workers left. When I saw it the light bulb went on and also bells and whistles because I have been looking for a product to help with this for a long time. If you've ever fought cured powder paint, you know where I'm coming from. Do you mean the 32786? The 32798 is a flat eye hook. Edited October 28, 2014 by mark poulson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Apdriver Posted October 28, 2014 Report Share Posted October 28, 2014 Yes Mark. I'm on the road and doing this from memory which isn't what it used to be sometimes. 32786. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Apdriver Posted October 28, 2014 Report Share Posted October 28, 2014 I too use banana heads. I have a couple different molds including the doit and some lil mac that I have buying off of ebay of various sizes up to 1 oz. I open the eyes the same way as Ap does but with Gamy hooks I find that about 1 in 5 breaks. Teflon plumbers tape does the same thing on the eyes. I did 15 a week ago and I only had 1 break on the Mustads. If you are real aggressive with the hammer, you can break every one. Only open the eye enough to slip the blade under. Sometimes I remove a bit of lead with my knife if I haven't opened the eye enough or some extra flash is in the way. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Basseducer Posted October 28, 2014 Report Share Posted October 28, 2014 I put the punch in the chuck of my drill press and use the drill handle to lower the punch with steady pressure. I use the depth gauge to lock the travel so it will not go too deep and break the eye. Works pretty well for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted October 28, 2014 Report Share Posted October 28, 2014 I put the punch in the chuck of my drill press and use the drill handle to lower the punch with steady pressure. I use the depth gauge to lock the travel so it will not go too deep and break the eye. Works pretty well for me. Smart idea! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VersatileFuturian Posted November 8, 2014 Report Share Posted November 8, 2014 Take a dremel to the hook eye cavity in whatever mold you want to use. Make the hook eye cavity larger. Then just use a straight shank hook and a figure 8 link. That's what I've been doing. Works really well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Hahn Posted November 11, 2014 Report Share Posted November 11, 2014 Take a dremel to the hook eye cavity in whatever mold you want to use. Make the hook eye cavity larger. Then just use a straight shank hook and a figure 8 link. That's what I've been doing. Works really well. This is also the method I use. The Figure 8 lin from lurepartsonline works pretty well with a 4/0 spinnberbait hook Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aaarneson Posted November 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2014 Sounds interesting....do you guys have a picture to share? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
token12 Posted November 18, 2014 Report Share Posted November 18, 2014 I wonder if heating the hook eye and attaching a blade then re heating and closing it would work.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dink Master Posted November 20, 2014 Report Share Posted November 20, 2014 Look for a mold to create a vibrating jig/chatterbait style swim jig. With or with out the split ring connection. What is a good one? Thanks Poison Tail Jig ! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dink Master Posted November 20, 2014 Report Share Posted November 20, 2014 Sounds interesting....do you guys have a picture to share? Thanks 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
token12 Posted November 20, 2014 Report Share Posted November 20, 2014 That's awsome. How do yours run? Do they run like a chatter bait and not barrel roll through the water?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Apdriver Posted November 20, 2014 Report Share Posted November 20, 2014 Just ran across these I made from a style S Bass Jig. The blade's not bent yet in these photos. It's better if you do this before installing it on your jig. I know, I make mistakes! Dang that's hard to admit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
token12 Posted November 20, 2014 Report Share Posted November 20, 2014 Seeing these last 2 post is making me want to buy a jig mold and not a bow.. Decisions decisions.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Apdriver Posted November 20, 2014 Report Share Posted November 20, 2014 Seeing these last 2 post is making me want to buy a jig mold and not a bow.. Decisions decisions.. Now that's funny T12. The beautiful thing about do it and Zeiners is these molds cost no more than 35 bucks! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
