token12 Posted November 20, 2014 Report Share Posted November 20, 2014 Haha! Man its tough. I'll have to research how much all the equipment will cost. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Apdriver Posted November 20, 2014 Report Share Posted November 20, 2014 T12, if I can help you, let me know. The first photo in my last pic caught a 7.5 and a 5.5 in back to back casts this past spring. Both released. As you know, they're big fish baits. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
token12 Posted November 20, 2014 Report Share Posted November 20, 2014 The thing is blade installation and getting the jig to vibrate and not barbell roll. I don't have a drill press to press the hook eye open. Maybe the connecting link will help? Thanks for the new nick name! T12, that fits nicely! But yes I'll let you know if I need any help. What brand of mold do you use? Do it? Or another? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Apdriver Posted November 20, 2014 Report Share Posted November 20, 2014 T12, I use do it molds almost exclusively. I have one Shawn Collins I just received recently but haven't had the time to use it yet. I'm scratching my head on the roll over part because I never never have that problem with a Bladed Jig. That said, I mostly fish it slow and close to the bottom as I can. That's where I've caught my big fish with it. As I was bumping stuff, rip rap in particular. I never really burn a Bladed jig. I haven't fished any with the blade attached by a split ring though and always open the eye of my hook to attach the blade. Might have something to do with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
token12 Posted November 20, 2014 Report Share Posted November 20, 2014 I bought some pre molded jig heads with the open eye from Janns net craft and with the blade attached the whole thing was just rolling... No vibration or anything... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Apdriver Posted November 20, 2014 Report Share Posted November 20, 2014 Here's a pic of some lined up that you can see the blade good on. Click on the pic to expand it. See the top 1/3 of the blade is bent back toward the bait? I bet your blades weren't bent and that's why they weren't vibrating. Gotta bend 'em to get the right action. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
token12 Posted November 20, 2014 Report Share Posted November 20, 2014 I was gonna ask about the blade being bent if that makes a difference with action. I got the dancer swim jig heads with the ovular blades... I do like the style heads you use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted November 20, 2014 Report Share Posted November 20, 2014 (edited) I was gonna ask about the blade being bent if that makes a difference with action. I got the dancer swim jig heads with the ovular blades... I do like the style heads you use. I found that bending the blade lets me fish them at any speed without roll over. And it lets me burn them without coming up out of the water, so I can wind them across submerged grass at a good rate. A bonus is they "hunt" on a fast retrieve, moving erratically from side to side. When the Chatterbait first came out, my buddy and I made our own by cutting and drilling spinnerbait blades we pounded flat and cut to the same shape as the original. That's when we discovered (actually he did) that bending over the blade made such a difference. Edited November 20, 2014 by mark poulson 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
token12 Posted November 20, 2014 Report Share Posted November 20, 2014 The more we talk the more I wanna do this. Any specific methods used to bend the blade or do you guys just use a clamp or pliers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Apdriver Posted November 20, 2014 Report Share Posted November 20, 2014 The more we talk the more I wanna do this. Any specific methods used to bend the blade or do you guys just use a clamp or pliers? I've tried it with pliers, but you can't be consistent with the bends and your baits won't look that great. What I do is put some angled flat steel in my vise so the serrated jaws of the vise won't mar the finish on my stainless blades. Put them in that vise one at a time where you want your bend. Take a piece of board, I have a piece of oak, and lay it against your blade. Then you whack it with a hammer. Try to drive that board through your blade. You won't hurt anything but it puts a good uniform bend right where you need it. Lather, rinse, repeat, til you get all the blades bent you bought. Won't have to do that again. When your finished, you can stack em all together and there won't be a millimeters difference in them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dink Master Posted November 21, 2014 Report Share Posted November 21, 2014 That's awsome. How do yours run? Do they run like a chatter bait and not barrel roll through the water?! They run great. The key is to make sure the blade is loose on the hook eye. Sometimes you must enlarge the hole on the blade. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
token12 Posted November 21, 2014 Report Share Posted November 21, 2014 Epic win. I'm looking into molding my own. Just debating.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Hahn Posted November 23, 2014 Report Share Posted November 23, 2014 Poison Tail Jig ! That looks exactly like the Figure 8 link that I used on my bladed jigs. Those are the nuts! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aaarneson Posted January 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2015 Apdriver Or anyone else that may know. Do you get a bit of stickiness after you take off the foil tape? If so, what do you use to get that off? What can I use to get the stickiness off but not mess with the paint? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Apdriver Posted January 5, 2015 Report Share Posted January 5, 2015 I haven't noticed any stickiness but I'm sure a bit of alcohol won't mess with the cured powder paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aaarneson Posted January 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2015 I wonder if the foil tape I bought from Home Depot is a little different. Do you take off the tape right after you apply the powder paint or let it sit for a while and cool? I take mine off right after when it is still hot. I will try the alcohol if I continue to have this issue. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Apdriver Posted January 5, 2015 Report Share Posted January 5, 2015 I remove the tape right after I dip it in my fluid bed then hang it in my oven. After I get my oven loaded, I bake as per the PP directions. I use Columbia so it's 375 for 15-20 minutes. I think if you'll go ahead and bake it, any glue will bake right off. Like I said, I haven't noticed anything that would cause issues after I take them out of my oven. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aaarneson Posted January 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2015 I bake at 400 for 15-20 and I still get the stickiness. Strange....I would of thought it would have burned off as well. I will try the alcohol...that seems like that should work just fine. At least I hope. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Hahn Posted January 10, 2015 Report Share Posted January 10, 2015 ^^^^^^That will certainly work^^^^^ If you would rather use the regular eye and open the hook to install the blade, this is how I do that. I have a piece of metal stock and drill a hole in it as close to the edge as you can get it. Make the hole just large enough to relieve the tip of a center punch, but small enough to catch the radius of the eye of your hook. Lay your eye on the hole and take a center punch and open the eye up with it. Make take a couple blows to get it just right. Go easy and open that hook eye up just enough to slip your blade under it. Be sure to bend all your blades first and install in the proper orientation. Close your eye with a stout pair of pliers. One other trick that I have learned and wanted to share is how to keep the powder paint off your hook eye. You need to paint the head before you install the blade and the hook eye needs to be clean so the blade will work correctly. I found some foil tape that had a thin adhesive on it covered with paper. Perfect for cutting to size and covering that hook eye to powder and will withstand the heat. Remove the tape before you bake the paint to cure it. Here's a photo or two.image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg Apdriver: Thanks for the info on opening the eye on a regular jig hook. I made a couple of these as prototypes, as I normally use a Figure 8 link as the eye. Once the water gets soft on top again, I will give them a shot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Apdriver Posted January 10, 2015 Report Share Posted January 10, 2015 Glad I could help. Over the years, I have learned so much tackle crafting technique here that would have taken a lifetime of trial and error to figure out. I am grateful that so many share their knowledge, tips and techniques so freely. It's nice to be able to give back from time to time. It's what makes TU such a good forum IMO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aaarneson Posted January 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2015 Apdriver, What brand of foil tape do you use? Do you get it from Home Depot? Not sure why mine is leaving such a sticky residue. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Apdriver Posted January 12, 2015 Report Share Posted January 12, 2015 Apdriver, What brand of foil tape do you use? Do you get it from Home Depot? Not sure why mine is leaving such a sticky residue. Thanks I'll have to get back to you on that. I'm away from my things for a week so I can't say. I'll make a few up and go through that process and see if the glue is staying on my hook eye. I found the stuff I'm using in my attic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Hahn Posted January 13, 2015 Report Share Posted January 13, 2015 Glad I could help. Over the years, I have learned so much tackle crafting technique here that would have taken a lifetime of trial and error to figure out. I am grateful that so many share their knowledge, tips and techniques so freely. It's nice to be able to give back from time to time. It's what makes TU such a good forum IMO. I made a few more and learned one thing...it's best to tap, tap, tap on the hookeye, rather than using a much harder single blow. The eyes on the highly tempered super sharp hooks will snap quite easily! DUH! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toad Mode Posted January 21, 2015 Report Share Posted January 21, 2015 I like the arkie mold. Depending on the trailer, I can get it to hunt with a medium retrieve. It hunts best with no trailer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
appstateangler Posted February 4, 2015 Report Share Posted February 4, 2015 Take a dremel to the hook eye cavity in whatever mold you want to use. Make the hook eye cavity larger. Then just use a straight shank hook and a figure 8 link. That's what I've been doing. Works really well. What size figure 8 do you use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
