bluedragon2k9 Posted October 31, 2014 Report Share Posted October 31, 2014 hello Im just starting out trying to make my own cranks out of balsa.ll be trying the through wire way. I also don't know which devcon epoxy to buy for gluing the lip in place can someone give me a link to the right one? thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skeeter Posted October 31, 2014 Report Share Posted October 31, 2014 You want to use the 5 minute devcon epoxy. It says it right on the front of the package. Skeeter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluedragon2k9 Posted October 31, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2014 ah man then i bought the wrong kind i bought the 30 minute devcon 2 ton will it stil lwork? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted October 31, 2014 Report Share Posted October 31, 2014 The 30 minute will work, it will just take longer and more care to keep the alignment. Personally, i use a couple of drops of instant (CA) glue, as the lip is not a part of the line tie structure. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travis Posted October 31, 2014 Report Share Posted October 31, 2014 The lip on a crank should be taking a beating in most fishing situations, just make sure it is glued in good. I use 5 minute epoxy also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HAWGFAN Posted October 31, 2014 Report Share Posted October 31, 2014 Your 30 min epoxy won't be wasted. You'll use it for the top coat. 5 min will yellow as a top coat, so only use it for assembly steps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kajay920 Posted October 31, 2014 Report Share Posted October 31, 2014 Another step I take on the diving lip is to score the face of it with a knife. This gives the glue somthing to bite onto. I have had them slip out on me. Be carefull where you score it, make sure that your cuts will be hidden by the lure body. I often cut a dovetail slot in the base of the lip that helps ancor it in as well. In some cases I have even glued a small pin through the lip and into the wood. But yes, get the 5 minute for this, it's a pain to hold the lip in place for 30 minutes while it sets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted October 31, 2014 Report Share Posted October 31, 2014 I add my bills before I paint. I like how the 30 minute epoxy gives me enough time to align everything before it sets. 5 minute epoxy, at least the one by Devcon, says it is only water resistant on the package. I cut my lip slots with a bandsaw while the blank is still rectangular, so the bill material is a semi-tight fit, leaving enough room for the epoxy, and I have a square face to seat the bill against. I also drill a couple of shallow holes on each side of the bill with a drill press, so I'm just adding dimples for the epoxy to grab. If I'm adding a bill with the line tie in it, I use D2T, which is waterproof. It's a pain to have to wait for it to set, but I use denatured alcohol to spread any squeeze out over the rest of the lure, and that acts as a sealer, too. For square bills, I use gap filling super glue in the slot itself. My line tie screw eyes pass through the bill, so I drill a hole for them after the bill is installed, run the screw eye in and back out again, and coat the screw eye with the same glue before I run it back in. If your top coat passes up onto the bill a little, 5 minute will work for a crank, but you have to watch for water infiltration. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imagine_studios Posted October 31, 2014 Report Share Posted October 31, 2014 Thanks for the info about scoring/dimpling, both good ideas! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
