imagine_studios Posted November 2, 2014 Report Share Posted November 2, 2014 What size hole do you guys pre drill for your .092 screw eyes? Thanks Jason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted November 2, 2014 Report Share Posted November 2, 2014 I don't know exactly, since I've used the same bit for years. Basically, you want the shank of the bit to just cover the shank of the screw eye, but leave the threads exposed. Hold the screw eye up, with the bit shank in front of it, and see if it does that. Running your screw eye in and then back out again, to cut the threads into the bait, and then coating the threads with gap filling super glue and running it back in will make the threads stronger, and the excess glue will seat the eye and keep it from turning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imagine_studios Posted November 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2014 That sounds easy enough for sizing the bit. I was planning to drill it a little deeper than the screw eye goes in, for extra hold and then hopefully find a way to get 5 min epoxy down in there too. Do you think that might be necessary if this bait is to be used for Muskie? Thanks Jason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpalinsk Posted November 2, 2014 Report Share Posted November 2, 2014 I' new to building wood lures and on another forum, I asked a related question and there are some responses you may find helpful. FYI, in researching screw eyes, it seemed that 30 minute epoxy was preferred for screw eyes and 5 minute for belly and tail weights. http://www.stripersonline.com/t/956424/screw-eye-finishing-washer-question HTH David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted November 2, 2014 Report Share Posted November 2, 2014 Any screw eye depends on the strength of the bait itself. If it's wood, a penetrating glue, like super glue, will strengthen the wood more than a topical clue, like an epoxy. But I know some drill oversized holes, fill them with epoxy, and then slip the screw eye or twist wire in, and that works, too. I've actually had very good luck by drilling a slip fit hole in my PVC baits, and using Spro swivels set in gap filling super glue that just lines the sides of the hole. I don't want so much glue that it is forced into the swivel and locks the swivel. I push the swivel in and out first, to be sure it's easy to install, and to make a "track" for the upper loop, since it's larger than the barrel. That way, I can orient the loop to be parallel to the front to back axis, and I can cross drill and install a small piece of spinnerbait wire as a positive anchor for the swivel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted November 2, 2014 Report Share Posted November 2, 2014 That sounds easy enough for sizing the bit. I was planning to drill it a little deeper than the screw eye goes in, for extra hold and then hopefully find a way to get 5 min epoxy down in there too. Do you think that might be necessary if this bait is to be used for Muskie? Thanks Jason Making sure the hole had enough glue in it to fill the hole once the hardware was installed always concerned me. The only way I've come up with to make sure there were no voids left was to use a syringe to fill the hole a little overfull and then let the hardware force out any extra glue. This is easily wiped off with a paper towel after the hardware is installed. But using a syringe with 5 minute epoxy is not the way to go. Not unless you have an endless supply of syringes. I use 30 minute epoxy and can fill 2 or 3 holes with epoxy and still have time to purge and clean the syringe. Using 5 minute epoxy you'll be lucky to get one hole filled before it starts setting up in the syringe. Don't ask me how I know. Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted November 2, 2014 Report Share Posted November 2, 2014 "Don't ask, don't tell" Bill Clinton. I guess he forgot to tell Monica about that. Hahaha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spoonpluggergino Posted November 2, 2014 Report Share Posted November 2, 2014 I build musky lure and when I use hardwood baits I predrill 1/16 holes. When using softer wood I use hardwood dowel pins and I epoxy the dowel pins in the bait, works great. I also have a tutorial on to do the hardwood dowel pin system Gino Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imagine_studios Posted November 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2014 You're right, I was thinking of a syringe, but it sounds like I'll be buying many syringes if I try it with the 5 min epoxy. I've got a syringe that came out of a printer cartridge refill kit, but it sounds like I'll need the 30 minute version for that to work. Thanks everyone, as always, very helpful! Gino, I'll check out that tutorial, that sounds like a pretty good option too. My first lure is made of pine, but I know that's not going to hold up very well, it was mostly used as a proof of concept to see if I could figure out how to do it, plus, easy to work with. Now that I've tested things out, I'll probably go with Poplar or PVC and see if I can get either of those going. The Stripersonline info was good too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seeking 56 Posted November 2, 2014 Report Share Posted November 2, 2014 3/32'' for hardwoods. I'm now using Gino's dowel method for cedar lures by inserting oak, maple or birch dowels. If i'm doing several i'll use e-tex if one or 2, 5 minute epoxy is fine. 1/16'' in certain hardwoods like maple will cause the screw eye to heat up and may break depending how fast you screw it in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted November 3, 2014 Report Share Posted November 3, 2014 You're right, I was thinking of a syringe, but it sounds like I'll be buying many syringes if I try it with the 5 min epoxy. I've got a syringe that came out of a printer cartridge refill kit, but it sounds like I'll need the 30 minute version for that to work. Thanks everyone, as always, very helpful! Gino, I'll check out that tutorial, that sounds like a pretty good option too. My first lure is made of pine, but I know that's not going to hold up very well, it was mostly used as a proof of concept to see if I could figure out how to do it, plus, easy to work with. Now that I've tested things out, I'll probably go with Poplar or PVC and see if I can get either of those going. The Stripersonline info was good too. I'm using the syringes that are used for refilling ink cartridges as well. The needle on them is longer than pretty much anything you can get from a medical supply. They also have a bigger bore which makes injecting the epoxy easier. I know of nothing wrong in using the 30 minute epoxy other than it takes a little longer to set up. That extra time is good for those of us who like to "fiddle" with the alignment of lips and other hardware to make sure it's as close to perfect as can be. And unless I'm mistaken the 30 minute epoxy is stronger than the quicker setting epoxies. Not saying the 5 minute isn't more than strong enough for what we do. good luck with your builds, Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imagine_studios Posted November 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2014 Thanks again guys, great stuff! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
