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JBlaze

Spooks And Popper Style Luresff

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Just bought a lathe and a set of turning tools. Was trying to turn a spook jr. sized lure out of balsa wood. Just about had it shaped and the end that was centered on the tail stock broke off. Naturally, when this happened I gouged a big hunk out of its side.

 

My question. Is Balsa wood to soft for turning or maybe I should  use Emory belt to sand down and shape  the wood instead of the tools.  What is the best wood for turning?

 

John

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Thanks Nathan. That is what I did this morning. I roughed it out and got it semi-rounded with the tools then cut a sanding belt and used it to finish the job. I think it turned out pretty nice for a second attempt. I am putting barely 2 grams of weight in the tail of the balsa. I hope this will make it walk.

I Also turned a piece of PVC Trim Board. The secret to turning this was getting the hard slick facing off of it. After doing that, it was not so hard to turn. It is the one laying on top of the Balsa.

John

Balsa Turn 01.jpg

First PVC Turn 01.jpg

Hard Wired top water walker 01.jpg

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Balsa Turn 01.jpg

First PVC Turn 01.jpg

Hard Wired top water walker 01.jpg

Hard Wired top water walker 02.jpg

Balsa Turn 01.jpg

First PVC Turn 01.jpg

Hard Wired top water walker 01.jpg

Hard Wired top water walker 02.jpg

Balsa Turn 01.jpg

First PVC Turn 01.jpg

Hard Wired top water walker 01.jpg

Hard Wired top water walker 02.jpg

Balsa Turn 01.jpg

First PVC Turn 01.jpg

Hard Wired top water walker 01.jpg

Hard Wired top water walker 02.jpg

Balsa Turn 01.jpg

First PVC Turn 01.jpg

Hard Wired top water walker 01.jpg

Hard Wired top water walker 02.jpg

Balsa Turn 01.jpg

First PVC Turn 01.jpg

Hard Wired top water walker 01.jpg

Hard Wired top water walker 02.jpg

Balsa Turn 01.jpg

First PVC Turn 01.jpg

Hard Wired top water walker 01.jpg

Hard Wired top water walker 02.jpg

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I have been making a few of these silent spook type baits lately.  Turning them out of basswood was pretty easy.  When I made my first one out of balsa it was a struggle.  I probably had 4 repairs before I had a finished bait.  They will all walk but they walk better and easier with more weight in the back.  With more weight in the back, you can walk them tight and quick or you can walk them slower and wider to find out what they want.  Also, with the balsa bait, you should check out these guru's advise about sealing and top coating.  I got all fowled up and asked for advise not long ago and it was a big help.  I would recommend the super glue/solarez/paint/solarez method.  The balsa needs some strength in the protective shell particularly with the lighter density balsa's. 

 

Good luck and have fun.  Don't give up, it's worth the trouble.  There are times when they don't want the knocker in the bait and these silent baits are just what you need.

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JBlaze, Those look great and really don't need anything to improve them. If you ever want to end up with a lure that goes to a point instead of blunt on the end, take a Parting tool and extend the final diameter straight on out past each end of the lure body. When you cut off at the end of this extension you will have material to sand to the desired tapered end design. I have seen videos on Youtube that shows how to taper to sharp point and cut it off in your hand while the lathe is still running. I never had the guts to try that.. Musky Glenn

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I have been making a few of these silent spook type baits lately.  Turning them out of basswood was pretty easy.  When I made my first one out of balsa it was a struggle.  I probably had 4 repairs before I had a finished bait.  They will all walk but they walk better and easier with more weight in the back.  With more weight in the back, you can walk them tight and quick or you can walk them slower and wider to find out what they want.  Also, with the balsa bait, you should check out these guru's advise about sealing and top coating.  I got all fowled up and asked for advise not long ago and it was a big help.  I would recommend the super glue/solarez/paint/solarez method.  The balsa needs some strength in the protective shell particularly with the lighter density balsa's. 

Barry thanks for the encouragement and good advice. I did Super glue/D2T/Paint and top coated again with D2T. It is just about ready to touch right now. Not sure that I have enough weight but will know soon. Not sure what the plug weighs either, My set of (MY Weigh brand 300-Z scales) bit the dust. I have had them for about 8 years so I can't complain. Will order another set this afternoon.

 

MG Thanks.

I don"t Believe that I have what it takes to do that either. I have already gotten a sanding belt wrapped around the lure blank. It had a string hanging off the side of it and caught and wrapped everything up. I was lucky and it was carelessness on my part. 

 

Nathan, thanks.  will post a pic in the gallery a few minutes. 

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John,

For me, the rule of thumb is, the bigger the bait, the closer to horizontal I want it.  I've found that bigger baits that hang more vertical are really hard to work all day. 

If you take a Spook the same size as the ones you're making and test float it in a bucket of water, you can see the angle of the body you need for the best action.  Then add enough ballast toward the rear to achieve that same angle.

Keep in mind that a feathered treble on a small bait will cut down on the side to side walking, too, so experiment.

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I had a older guy bring me a bait to duplicate fore him.It was a cigar shaped bait for walking the dog.I can't remember what it was called...but all the weight was in the very tail of the bait.The rear eyescrew actually went through it...You could cast that thing a mile and in the water it stood straight up and down like a bobber...Then you would start to walk it..it walked easier then any bait I've ever seen..I'll have to make one of those again..Nathan

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I had a older guy bring me a bait to duplicate fore him.It was a cigar shaped bait for walking the dog.I can't remember what it was called...but all the weight was in the very tail of the bait.The rear eyescrew actually went through it...You could cast that thing a mile and in the water it stood straight up and down like a bobber...Then you would start to walk it..it walked easier then any bait I've ever seen..I'll have to make one of those again..Nathan

Would like to see that. I bet it was easy to keep in place.

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Not too long ago I made a couple topwater dog walkers and used a 2 gram weight with the hanger built in for the rear hook hanger. Can't remember the proper name for them, but I got them from LPO. Seems like they call them belly weights or something like that. The baits were approximately 4" in length and I was just guessing at the weight when building the first one. I got lucky and the bait sat in the water perfectly and it's really easy to make it walk.

 

Ben

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