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bluedragon2k9

Band Saw Or Scrol Lsaw

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Do any of you who use a scroll saw get a slanted cut when cutting the bill slot?  I use a casting resin by smooth on and here lately I have had some problems get a nice straight even cut; Even with wood it still happens...  My blade is tightened down, saw is on a level surface and the cutting surface is set to zero and not on an angle..

Edited by token12
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It could be blade deflection. I would suggest trying a wider blade that has more backbone.If you have a blade tension adjustment. I would add more tension to the blade.Another thing is that it is easy to forget to let the blade do the work. Overworking the blade can cause all kinds of odd results.

Don

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Another thought is that you may have to make a fixture to stabilize and provide proper positioning of the cast blank.I have used epoxy putty to create a half mold in the past. Just don't forget to use a release agent.position your mold on a flat piece of wood or other material and add guide strips and a stop strip to your saw. Being that your casting a number of blanks it will be worth your while to spend the extra time needed on setup.

Don

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I may have over complicated things.

Before you get in too deep. You should put a square on the table and then against the blade. I have found that on many machines that the zero mark is not true and can be off by several degrees. As kid sometimes scroll saw blades were sometimes hard to find locally. We would take coping saw blades and either drive the pins out or snip the ends off. Just thought that I would mention that in the event a wider blade is difficult to find.

Don

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I may have over complicated things.

Before you get in too deep. You should put a square on the table and then against the blade. I have found that on many machines that the zero mark is not true and can be off by several degrees. As a kid scroll saw blades were sometimes hard to find locally. We would take coping saw blades and either drive the pins out or snip the ends off. Just thought that I would mention that in the event a wider blade is difficult to find.

Don

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How tight to make the band saw blade is always the big question. Just setting up the bearings and guides can be a brain strain. There is lots of set-up information out there in Google world, worth having a read.

 

Personally, I judge the blade tension by sound. I pluck the blade while adjusting until I get a clear musical note. You can laugh, but it works for me.

 

Dave

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How tight to make the band saw blade is always the big question. Just setting up the bearings and guides can be a brain strain. There is lots of set-up information out there in Google world, worth having a read.

 

Personally, I judge the blade tension by sound. I pluck the blade while adjusting until I get a clear musical note. You can laugh, but it works for me.

 

Dave

 

Dave, that's exactly how I do it, too.

Just be sure to back the tension off when you're done. or your blade can take a shape from being in the stretched position too long.

Edited by mark poulson
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Any music sound and you are way over tightening the blade.  

 

Alex Snodgrass set up video is about as easy as it gets...quick and excellent results.

 

I didn't realize you were a music critic, too!  Hahaha

I guess I should have said I tighten it until it makes a higher pitched sound, like a mid rang note, when I twang it.

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The gauges are notoriously worthless in many bandsaws and can't recall ever coming across any article or instruction made by  "pros"  that would recommend setting a blade tension using them.    Especially if you have swapped springs out to a more robust version.  

Edited by Travis
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I may have over complicated things.

Before you get in too deep. You should put a square on the table and then against the blade. I have found that on many machines that the zero mark is not true and can be off by several degrees. As a kid scroll saw blades were sometimes hard to find locally. We would take coping saw blades and either drive the pins out or snip the ends off. Just thought that I would mention that in the event a wider blade is difficult to find.

Don

Is this the method you are referring to? 

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That is a good way to square.  I usually use a square and eyeball it then cut a curved piece and then check the cut piece with the square relative to the table and make any adjustments if needed.   Several methods will get you to the same point.  One of those things that it important to do and may be some time before you do it again.  I haven't moved mine since initial set up years ago, but don't to a lot of scroll saw work.   

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Sweet.  Exactly what I wanted to hear.  I'll give this a try tomorrow sometime.  I'm thinking that the table maybe off.  In the beginning when I first bought my scroll saw I never had a problem cutting a bill slot. I have completely avoided cutting into resin lures until I can figure out a solution. Hopefully this will be the solution. 

 

  To all that have replied giving me input on solutions to help solve the problem I was having on this thread, thank you.  All input has been noted and put to use or will be put to use.  You guys have been courteous and generous. Thanks. 

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Yes that's what I was referring to. I generally use a small machinist square, but I believe that this should bring you to the same basic result. Many times when we move these little machines around, we have a tendency to grab a hold on the table top. It doesn't take much to knock them out of position. I use the degree graduations on the table for reference only.

 

Don

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