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Jeff Hahn

Getting A Bladed Jig To Hunt

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As you can tell by my post count, I'm new around here.  Used to hangout on the BFHP a lot and now on BBC. 

 

I make a bladed jig and some of them "hunt," veering off to one side and then centering themselves, just like a crankbait that "hunts."  The problem I'm having is trying to figure out how to consistently create a bait that hunts.  I have played around with bending the blade in various ways, but that hasn't produced consistent reults.  I got a few suggestions that I am experimenting.  Any additional help you can offer would be appreciated.  Thanks in advance.

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Since you're able to make "some that hunt" rather than just a single example you have some options that others don't.  Before introducing modifications, I'd make up a bunch and test them all and separate into hunt vs. non-hunt.  (or just set aside baits that hunt for a while until you have a few to work with)  Then I'd take them home to a clean desk, a nice bright light, and a magnifying glass and inspect to see if I could identify any differences between the two categories.  I would look for asymmetry, minor defects, or just differences in the overall bait or specific components.  If that kind of inspection reveals something, that's where I'd start for experimenting with modifications.  If you have several that hunt, you could also try swapping out components to discover the difference by process of elimination.  Example: swap the blade with one from a non-hunting bait.  If the bait still hunts, probably the blade is not the reason.  Don't rely on just one "test" to tell you the story.  Do a few repeats of each test with different baits 'til you know the result is not a fluke.

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I have been making them a few different ways because I have a couple friends who like hard vibration but they don't want the bait to have too erratic of an action and those types of baits I make with a spinnerbait head and then attach the blade to the wire making sure it is 1" away from the head, it runs straight this way. My other friends like the erratic hunting type action, those I make with a split ring, by adding the split ring you create a pivot point and as the blade vibrates it causes the body to pitch and roll making it veer left, right, up and down, it truly is all over the place.  The split ring deal is the easiest way I know how to make them erratic as I have tried attaching the blade directly to the hook but it just didn't move like I wanted it too.

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I have been making them a few different ways because I have a couple friends who like hard vibration but they don't want the bait to have too erratic of an action and those types of baits I make with a spinnerbait head and then attach the blade to the wire making sure it is 1" away from the head, it runs straight this way. My other friends like the erratic hunting type action, those I make with a split ring, by adding the split ring you create a pivot point and as the blade vibrates it causes the body to pitch and roll making it veer left, right, up and down, it truly is all over the place.  The split ring deal is the easiest way I know how to make them erratic as I have tried attaching the blade directly to the hook but it just didn't move like I wanted it too.

Thanks Smalljaw for the tip. I've been opening the eye of the hook and installing the blade. I think I'll try a few with the split ring now. Thanks for sharing!

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This is very interesting. I haven't done any jig building or done work on hunting theory for jigs, but would like to, just for interest.

 

I spent seven years on and off, working on crank bait hunting. Once you understand what hunting is and why it happens, it is very easy to build one. I have posted my findings, so the information gathered is available for all.

 

I would like to see some photos of your hunting bait and if possible some video of the hunting action, then I will have enough to get me started.

 

Dave

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For what it's worth, I have continued to play with my vibrating jigs and the blade modifications and for the life of me I can't figure out what makes one hunt and others just vibrate straight back.  As best I can tell, about 1 out of 5 will hunt, for whatever reason.  I guess that I just need to make more than I need, so that I end up with enough that hunt.

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The one stick bait we use (ugly duckling) some of them run true some run of to the side and back to center (I guess maybe that's what you call hunting) to correct it (we want it to run true not shoot of to the side) we bend the wire that we tie the line to on the nose of bait to left or right slightly,I don't know if that would work for you or not.

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The one stick bait we use (ugly duckling) some of them run true some run of to the side and back to center (I guess maybe that's what you call hunting) to correct it (we want it to run true not shoot of to the side) we bend the wire that we tie the line to on the nose of bait to left or right slightly,I don't know if that would work for you or not.

 

Yes, darting offerratically to one side and then back to center that is what Rick CLunn has called "hunting" and it's a highly valued trait in a crankbait.  Some bladed jigs will do the same thing and I am trying to figure out exactly what factor controls this.  But, since a bladed jig uses a snap, rather than a fixed eye like a crankbait, I don't know that bending the snap will have any effect.  But, I will give it a try and see.

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I buy my vibrating jigs from Siebert Outdoors. He appears to use a football style jig head (3/8 oz in my case) with a horizontal line tie connected to a split ting (about a size 3) connected to a blade line those sold at LurePartsOnline. A twitch of the rod while making a slow to medium retrieve will cause this bladed jig to "hunt" just about every time. A slim trailer like a Super Fluke will pretty much assure this "hunting" action while a trailer like a small swimbait will subdue this action somewhat (probably due to the additional drag that the swimbait produces). Benfing the blade seems to diminish this baits "hunting" action.

It is very difficult to create this "hunting" action in lures like the Original or Elite Chatterbait (probably due to the blade size, shape and narrow width). I was able to get an old Bageley knockoff of the Chatterbait to "hunt" by downsizing the trailer to a Zoom Fluke which I believe is 4" as oppoed to thje 5" Super Fluke.  

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trailer definitely plays a role in a bladed jig's action in a big way, as does blade size and shape, head shape, attachment method, all things to consider. You would be surprised the differences you can create if you veer away from conventional design a bit and start thinking and designing outside of the box. There is a lot more on the table with bladed jigs that has yet to be explored. Part of what has me so fascinated by them!

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I have also noticed a thin trailer makes the bait more likely to hunt.  I want to be able to get the bait to hunt on a constant retrieve...which about 1 in 5 will do with a thin trailer.  (I prefer the old Burke trailer, but the Zoom Spinnerbait Trailer is OK, too.)  The original RAD Chatterbaits would consistently hunt.  But, the Z-Man baits do so far less often.  I've played around with the size of the blade, a little with the shape, and with the size and diamater of the eye that the blade attaches to.  I use a Do-It Sparkie mold, so it has the regular eye style, rather than a flat eye.  So, I haven't played around with the split ring to the blade design yet.

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split ring is almost definitely not going to hunt I would imagine... not sure you would ever get one to hunt. Honestly, a split ring is just a compact single Colorado spinnerbait almost in my eyes, not the same as a bladed jig in the true sense, doesn't have the ability to impart action the same way. I have my own special something that has a very distinctly different action but still working on a way to make them and not infringe on chatterbait patents. I also still have a dozen different variations to try beyond that. Just need to find time and money for it all really...

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