New Baits When Float Lean To One Side

[bluedragon2k9]

my new crankbaits i made for some reason when i float htem they lean to one side what can cause this?And when they do swim they are only diving around a foot maybe.any help appreciated

[Skeeter]

If you lip is put in square and the lure body is proportionate, they you probably need to add more weight.

 

Skeeter

[RayburnGuy]

Are you sure your ballast is perfectly centered? If the center of the ballast isn't aligned with the centerline of the bait then this can cause it to lean.

 

Ben

[imagine_studios]

I had this same issue with my first lure.  I kept thinking something was crooked or the shape wasn't right, but it turns out it was just too buoyant, like skeeter said.  I used a couple split shots and some tape to temporarily put a little weight in front of the front hook, and that's all it was.  Once I found the sweet spot for the weight, I drilled and installed them.  I learned the hard way, but it's best to get a line drawn in the exact center of the lure before you start rounding it so you can get your ballast hole in the right spot.  Once you get a design down, it's probably best to drill the hole while the lure is still square, to make absolute certain it's in the right spot.  So far this has worked for me, but I've only made 5 lures thus far, so I might not be the best person to give advice just yet...

 

Jason

[Braided Line]

I`d say,  out of balance and lip size.    Just guessing though.

[mark poulson]

All my baits float on their sides until I add ballast.  Even floating minnows need ballast to keep them oriented right.  The only cranks I've ever made that didn't need additional ballast were some 1.0 square bills I made from PVC, but I did have to go to the biggest belly hook I could use without fouling with the tail hook.

[bluedragon2k9]

im thinking i did not add enough weight cause when i put the hooks on it stopped a lot of the lean, only problem is I all rewady epoxied the,m 3 x. so im just goign to take this as a lesson learned i guess.

[mark poulson]

You can still save the lure.  

Put it in a bucket of water, add egg sinkers or split shot to the times of the front treble, until the lure hangs down at the angle you want.  You can use a similar commercial lure as a starting point.  Just add ballast until it hangs at the same angle in the water as the commercial lure.  

Then weigh the weights you had to add, cut off enough 1/4" lead wire to match that weight, and add it to the lure, just in front of the belly hanger. Seal the hole with epoxy after you're installed the ballast, and test it.  

If it works, paint it and finish it.  If not, do what I do and drive over it with your truck until it's learned it's lesson!

[Matt M]

I agree with what mark said. Adding extra weight will allow the bait to float upright. It will also help the bait to dive deeper than a foot. If you dont want to drive over your bait you can turn messed up baits into a key chain. Key chains dont have to be tuned or set up straight. I have lots of keychains.

[imagine_studios]

If it's a bad Muskie lure, you can still use it as a keychain, it'll just have to be the keychain they put on the restroom key at the gas station.  If you've not used the bathroom on an old school gas station 25 or more years ago, that comment might not make sense.

 

Jason

[bluedragon2k9]

lmao yea It makes sense you guys some funny cats.Ill try drilling through the epoxie and stuff and adding some more weight.

[Skeeter]

When I try a new design or weighting method I usually make one or two baits. Since I use hardwood to make them weighting is critical. I just take one bait, make it, paint it, and clearcoat it. Then I test it in the pool or lake with hooks and all. If it does not work then I start making adjustments; IE different lips, weights, and hooks. The bait may look bad once I have the finished product after cutting stuff out and replacing it. However, I have only torn up one or two baits. I take notes on what I did. Then the next bait will be right. The only time I have to make another bait during trials is if I change the body (size, shape, etc).

 

Ill try drilling through the epoxie and stuff and adding some more weight.

 

You are headed in the right direction.

 

Skeeter

[mark poulson]

If you make tracings of your baits on a sketch pad, and make notes on each one of hardware and ballast locations and amounts, once you've gotten a bait to perform like you want, it's easier to make another like it work the first time.

I'm the worst for not doing it, but I have done it with some baits, and it really helps.

If you make it a part of your process, you won't be sorry.

[F&R]

I make the entire bait with hook slot cut. Seal the bare wooden body including the hook slot. I use thin super glue available from hobby shops for this sealer.You are sealing the bait to prevent water absorption while testing for correct ballast.  Install the lip, but don't glue it in. Fill a large enough container with water.Get some very thin florist arrangement wire. It is very light, and very easily bent and shaped. Select several sizes of lead weights that you think may work for the size of your bait. Make a hole, if there isn't one, in each ballast weight through which to pass the wire. Form the wire into a slightly loose fitting loop around the center of the bait from the back around to the belly with enough of a tag end of wire hanging down from the belly to attach a weight. Try the various weights and positions of the wire around the body till you get the floating orientation you want. Mark the belly at this wire location. This is where you will drill for the belly weight you have chosen. There you have it. It took a lot of words, but it's really simple and fast and you don't damage the bait. I have done many this way and they came out perfectly. You can use monofilament or thread  instead of florist wire, but I have tried and it is a real pain to do so. Whatever you use it must have negligible weight or it will affect the ballast outcome.