mark poulson Posted December 12, 2014 Report Share Posted December 12, 2014 I just posted a picture in the hardbaits gallery of the S Waver, painted in a light rainbow pattern. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglinarcher Posted December 13, 2014 Report Share Posted December 13, 2014 (edited) I am glad that things worked out. Two thumbs up. Edited December 13, 2014 by Anglinarcher Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted December 15, 2014 Report Share Posted December 15, 2014 Thanks guys. It is satisfying when something actually works! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ichthus Posted December 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2014 When I cut my V joints on my bandsaw, they never seem to come out evenly on both sides. No matter how much I try to measure out in exactness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Musky Glenn Posted December 15, 2014 Report Share Posted December 15, 2014 Ichthus, are you cutting the joint while you still have flat sides before you cut the lure to shape? Musky Glenn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ichthus Posted December 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2014 Yes I'm keeping the sides nice and flat but it seems like the lines I cut on top are different than those that have been cut on the bottom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted December 15, 2014 Report Share Posted December 15, 2014 Yes I'm keeping the sides nice and flat but it seems like the lines I cut on top are different than those that have been cut on the bottom. Here's a quick fix. Don't mark the top AND bottom. Just use one set of marks and then you won't have anything to compare it too. Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
squirrel3495 Posted December 16, 2014 Report Share Posted December 16, 2014 I cut mine on a table saw. I draw or trace the shape of the lure onto the wood. Then mark where I want the joint. Then cut almost half way through, flip it over, run it on the other side. The bait stays whole, then I finish the cuts after I finish shaping. That way, there always even and exactly the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted December 16, 2014 Report Share Posted December 16, 2014 (edited) I cut mine on a table saw. I draw or trace the shape of the lure onto the wood. Then mark where I want the joint. Then cut almost half way through, flip it over, run it on the other side. The bait stays whole, then I finish the cuts after I finish shaping. That way, there always even and exactly the same. I do the same with my PVC swimbaits if I'm making a bunch of baits and joints. For one bait, I use a dovetail saw, and cut them by hand while the blank is still rectangular. If you use a try square to mark the joint lines on both sides and the top and bottom, and then mark the angles of the joint on top and bottom, using a centerline to be sure they're symetrical, it's not hard to do. I find I have much more control with a sharp, fine handsaw, and the kerf is so thin I can easily use an exacto knife to finish the joint after shaping. Once the joints have been cut apart, you can deepen the V on the leading edge of the following section as you need to with a sander to get more clearance and movement in the joint. I posted a "4 hours of sleep", run on description of how I made my successful glider on the Hard Baits forum. http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/gallery/image/13859-7-s-waver-copy-glide-bait/ Edited December 16, 2014 by mark poulson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ichthus Posted December 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2014 So I was experimenting with one of the bodies I made and made one where the head section was the shortest section. weighed it so both sections sank equally. It was actually kindof interesting, it reminded me more of a tadpole swimming. maybe I'll save it for when my local ponds are filled with an abundance of those. LOL im talking about bullfrog tadpoles of course. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted December 18, 2014 Report Share Posted December 18, 2014 So I was experimenting with one of the bodies I made and made one where the head section was the shortest section. weighed it so both sections sank equally. It was actually kindof interesting, it reminded me more of a tadpole swimming. maybe I'll save it for when my local ponds are filled with an abundance of those. LOL im talking about bullfrog tadpoles of course. Soon as it warmed up I'd say to heck with building baits. I'd be down there at the pond catching bullfrogs so I could fry up some frog legs. As Homer Simpson would say..........aarrrggggggggggggghhhh bullfrog legs Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted December 18, 2014 Report Share Posted December 18, 2014 Soon as it warmed up I'd say to heck with building baits. I'd be down there at the pond catching bullfrogs so I could fry up some frog legs. As Homer Simpson would say..........aarrrggggggggggggghhhh bullfrog legs Ben Hahaha Kermit, beware!!! Ichthus, Does that bait swim in a S pattern, like the original S Waver? I'm interested to know how body section length and ratio affects bait motion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ichthus Posted December 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2014 It's almost like a head shaking action. But unlike any action I've really seen because the head whips back and fourth pretty quick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted December 18, 2014 Report Share Posted December 18, 2014 Wow, that sounds like a unique action! It might be a great bait to throw over bedding areas. They hate really active stuff over their heads when they're on the bed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglinarcher Posted December 19, 2014 Report Share Posted December 19, 2014 Skinning, as I use the term, is to put a thin coat of something over top of another, i.e, a skin. As squirrel is using it, a soft skin is being formed on top of a hard bait to make the lure feel more "skin like" to a big ole bass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ichthus Posted December 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2014 Has anyone tried Flex Seal clear as an alternate for plastidip? Seems like it might be a good alternative? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eatsleepswimbait Posted January 6, 2015 Report Share Posted January 6, 2015 How did you go about finding the to put the slot for the joints? Does it matter if it is evenly distributed or closer to the ends? Thank you in advance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted January 6, 2015 Report Share Posted January 6, 2015 I looked at the thickness of the bait at the place I wanted to put a joint, and figured out how much lure material I wanted left in front of the pin. Then I added enough for the thickness of the screw eye, and a little for hinge clearance, and made the angle of my hinge joint enough to have that much material on my male end, where the pin is located. If you've cut your joint, and, when you go to drill for you pin, you find you have to move it past the joint cut in order to have enough material to be strong, you can steepen the angle of you male joint faces until it passes the pin point. I find the easiest way for me is to cut the joint, drill for the pin with the proper angle+-, add my screw eyes to the female part, and then cut my hinge slots with a band saw until they are deep enough for the eyes to move freely. I used a band saw because I could make cuts that were tighter than drilling, so there isn't as much vertical movement in the joint. Once that's done, the band saw slots show me how much steeper I need to make the joint face so the slot is still in the joint, and not on the face of the lure. If you look at the pictures I posted on the first page of this thread, you'll see two store bought S Wavers, plus my own version. The slots in mine reach the edge of the joint face. I did steepen the joint face until the slots were totally in the joint. It's purely an aesthetic thing for me. I don't think the fish care. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eatsleepswimbait Posted January 7, 2015 Report Share Posted January 7, 2015 Thanks for the help, i wanted to see if the location of the slots and screw eyes would affect action of lure and type of glide. Thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLT785 Posted January 7, 2015 Report Share Posted January 7, 2015 Here's a YouTube video (bait co. ad) of a 3 pc. soft bait glider. They give a good explanation of design and rigging of the hooks that release from the bait. Thought it might give everyone some ideas to try on hard baits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted January 7, 2015 Report Share Posted January 7, 2015 (edited) That is a well thought-out system. I know the line-thru concept has been around for a while, but they have really stepped it up a notch with their beautiful baits. I don't think I'd be feeding any of those baits to a fish with those teeth! As it is, when stripers eat a soft trout lure they tear it up pretty badly. I can't imagine what I'd get back from a big pike. Probably just a bloody stump. Hahaha Edited January 7, 2015 by mark poulson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
