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Ehner024

Basswood Or Not?

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I am just starting into hard lures after doing a lot of hand pouring.  I am curios if Basswood is a decent piece of lumber for a jointed swimbait.  I have seen some people posting about PVCs, and resin types, but I think I want to go for a hand carved feel with a rock solid hardware.  Since I am just starting out I am curious what a great base is.  Thanks for any info.

 

Ehner

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Personally, I don't consider Basswood to be "rock solid".  It is a great wood for sanding, shaping, has uniform grain...... it is really more of a soft wood then a hard wood.

 

BUT, I use it if I am only going to use wood and not just making a prototype I will make a mold of for future resin.

 

Good overall choice IMHO.

Edited by Anglinarcher
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Most of my wood cranks have been from basswood and have used poplar, cedar, and palouwina.  I saved some big tooth aspen from the last project in the shop and am interested in trying it also as it falls around basswood on the janka scale.   None compare to the ease of carving basswood as it doesn't splinter with the grain and cross grain cuts smoothly as well.  It can get fuzzy with small detail (like cutting in individual scales) but can be sanded out with ease.  Basswood can be found for cheap also, depending on your area of the country and connections.  The last timbers I got were free as a lot of the smaller hobby mill guys come across it when doing selective harvest.  It is horrible for heating and outside of carvers no real demand for it at the scale these guys deal in.  

 

I use basswood for most of my cranks and agree it isn't rock solid but a well built lure out of basswood or balsa will get you years of use out of a bait.  Much more likely to lose on a snag than wearing it out.   I like wood lures and have made foamies from wood cranks and still prefer actually the process of making the wood cranks.  I can churn baits from molds but personally don't get much satisfaction from the process.

 

Sealing the bait and hook hangers is critical and where some have issues with wood baits in general.  That is were the alternative PVC, resin, etc.. excel as water penetration becomes a non factor and of course they are more robust in terms of wear.  Disclaimer: I make bass cranks things would be different if I fished for something else (not for sure that is fishing at that point but different subject all together :halo: )  

Edited by Travis
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I mostly use Cedar but have used basswood since there is so much around my in laws house since they are woodcarvers. It works great if you want to do some personal carving on your lures. Like Travis I do suggest sealing with a wood hardener then sanding the raised grain off. This really isn't and option. I have learned you are not going to learn without trying, and yes have successes and failures but that is what makes it so much fun.

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I am just starting into hard lures after doing a lot of hand pouring.  I am curios if Basswood is a decent piece of lumber for a jointed swimbait.  I have seen some people posting about PVCs, and resin types, but I think I want to go for a hand carved feel with a rock solid hardware.  Since I am just starting out I am curious what a great base is.  Thanks for any info.

 

Ehner

Ehner,

If you're just starting out, and don't have any bad habits yet, try using PVC trimboard for your building materials.

It is easy totally waterproof, strong, easy to carve, and easy to paint.

Because it is waterproof, I can make a crank, test float it to get the ballast right, and even fish it with no paint at all, and it's fine.

I am a hobby builder, and make lure just for myself and my fishing buddies.  I am always looking for ways to save time in the building process.  Eliminating the need to seal a wooden bait before I can ballast it saves me a day in my lure building process, and that's important to me.  

Using the trimboard, water based airbrush paint, and Solarez, I can build, paint, and finish a crank and fish it the same day!  

If I'm not fishing it the same day, I'll dip the painted lure in AC1315, which is thinner and lighter, so I get as buoyant a lure as possible, and still have great protection for the paint job.  When I use PVC, the top coat is only there to protect the paint, not to protect the wood. 

The Azek trimboard I use is as buoyant as medium balsa, so I can make almost any crank I want to.  

Because it has no grain, carving and shaping is much easier.

You can google Azek and find out where to get it.  

Their decking is a little stronger, and a little less buoyant, about the same as poplar, so it is fine for lures, if that's all you can find.

All of my newer baits are from the trimboard.

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OK Mark,

 

You have got me to revisit PVC. Last year I was fishing till dark, jamming home, carving, painting, rigging then pretty much right back to the lake! There was not much time for sleep. A fast build is going to be a must for this spring.  

 

I searched and read a lot of your posts on the subject. But some were from 2012-2013 and was wondering if maybe some things have change.

 

Are you still sealing with the super glue to keep it from bubbling the paint?

 

Looking at the vintage woodworking site, there seems to be a few different choices, plus traditional finish vs. wood grain. Is there one exact one you prefer?

 

The s-waver you recently made had a screw eye to hinge pin connection I believe? How do you think this will hold up on a large swimbait, say 10" 5-6 oz.

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Glad you brought that up Bob, this has been going on for quite some time. Nearly anytime a question is asked about wood someone jumps in touting the benefits of PVC. Heres a question, what are the health benefits observed when machining PVC? NO THANKS!!! If I don't want to worry about sealing wood properly I would, and have, made molds and pour resin. Still, and this is only my opinion, the best lures I have ever made were handmade from, you guessed it WOOD!  

 

   Douglas   

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Actually I don't care what a guy chooses to make baits from. I figure "Beauty is as beauty does". If it runs great and catches the heck out of bass, it's a great lure. Period. I just couldn't resist tweaking Mark when given the chance! I prefer working in wood. My best baits have all been wood and I don't care for all the electrically charged PVC dust hanging around the garage and my sinuses. And personally I think "a need for speed" is not conducive to me making the best baits I can. God knows,I have too many crankbaits hanging around the garage as is!

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OK Mark,

 

You have got me to revisit PVC. Last year I was fishing till dark, jamming home, carving, painting, rigging then pretty much right back to the lake! There was not much time for sleep. A fast build is going to be a must for this spring.  

 

I searched and read a lot of your posts on the subject. But some were from 2012-2013 and was wondering if maybe some things have change.

 

Are you still sealing with the super glue to keep it from bubbling the paint?

 

Yes, I do, or I use my finger dipped in denatured alcohol to spread my bill-setting excess epoxy all over the bait.

 

Looking at the vintage woodworking site, there seems to be a few different choices, plus traditional finish vs. wood grain. Is there one exact one you prefer?

 

I am currently using up the 12' piece of 1X4 Azek trimboard that I have.  After that, I'll try and get more from a new source, since my local lumberyard closed early this year.

 

The s-waver you recently made had a screw eye to hinge pin connection I believe? How do you think this will hold up on a large swimbait, say 10" 5-6 oz.

 

For bigger swimbaits I use two .092 sst screw eyes for the first two joints, and two .072 screw eyes for the tail, since it doesn't have a hook.

I like the bigger eyes for the first two because bigger swimbaits are heavy, and I think there is a lot of strain on those joints, both in casting, and after a fish is hooked.  People talk about a big bait giving the fish leverage to rip the hooks out.  I think it also puts more strain on the joints, but I could be wrong.  Just my gut feeling.  One of the nice things about using two eyes per hinge is I don't have to worry about one unscrewing, which has happened to me in the past with one really loose tail joingt .

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Actually I don't care what a guy chooses to make baits from. I figure "Beauty is as beauty does". If it runs great and catches the heck out of bass, it's a great lure. Period. I just couldn't resist tweaking Mark when given the chance! I prefer working in wood. My best baits have all been wood and I don't care for all the electrically charged PVC dust hanging around the garage and my sinuses. And personally I think "a need for speed" is not conducive to me making the best baits I can. God knows,I have too many crankbaits hanging around the garage as is!

 Bob, 

I prefer working in wood, too.  I love the feel of wood in my hands, and the smell, and the way a handplane shaving curls off with a really sharp blade.

But I hate trying to seal wood to make it waterproof, particularly with jointed lures, and just the time the whole process takes to build lures from wood.

I've only just recently been able to take more time in my building process, but I am still sticking to PVC.  If I want a balsa bait, I'll call you!

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