smalljaw Posted January 9, 2015 Report Share Posted January 9, 2015 Has anyone purchased or tried the new double weed guards from Barlows? I'm really interested in these because I have used double wire weed guards but I only like them for rock, the double fiber looks like it should be able to come through cover really well. My question about them is how stiff and is the base 1/8" and then each side is half of it, meaning is the base 1/8" and then it goes into a smaller diameter on each side like 2 FG-9 weed guard coming together to form an FG-30? I hope the separate bundles are smaller but I really want to try them, so if anyone can tell me more I'd greatly appreciate any info, thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bass100 Posted January 9, 2015 Report Share Posted January 9, 2015 (edited) On there website it says that their FG30 weedguard with .021 strands has 24 strands and the new "Y" weedguard has 9 to 10 strands at .021 in each arm. They will be 4 to 6 strands shy of a normal FG30 weedguard with .021 strands. Edited January 9, 2015 by bass100 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Painter1 Posted January 11, 2015 Report Share Posted January 11, 2015 I have found them very helpful by email and telephone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallmouthaholic Posted January 12, 2015 Report Share Posted January 12, 2015 You can make your own(if you feel the need) by separating the fiber guard w/ your finger and counting the strands, followed by removal of various ,center strands. I've been separating and spreading 30 strand fiber guards apart to form an open V if you will for years- without removing any strands . Using your thumb and forefinger divide the 30 fibers in half- Take your index finger and push it all the way down against the jig head pushing the fiber guards forward against the side of the jig head. Dual,flexible wire guards are adjustable w/ the spread and the distance from the hook point- cold fiber guards are not. You do not want the wire or fiber guard against the hook point since they provide "0" snag resistance in that position. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Hahn Posted January 12, 2015 Report Share Posted January 12, 2015 (edited) I use a double wire weedguard on many of my jigs. You can buy a braided cable type weedguard with a small bend in the bottom at Lure Parts Online Buy a length of 1/8 inch (outside diameter) stainless tubing at a hardware store. Cut it to about a 2 inch lengths. Insert two of these wire weedguards inside and lay the tubing in the slot in your mold made for a weed guard (or pull pin). Make sure the loops on the end of the wire lay around the shaft of the jig hook. Then pour the lead. Some lead might get up inside the stailess tube, beside the wire weed guards. If so, use a pir of small pliers to pull the tubing off the weed guards. Then, spread the wires and paint the jighead. I usually paint the wires of the weed guard the same color as the jig. Edited January 12, 2015 by Jeff Hahn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smalljaw Posted January 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2015 I use a double wire weedguard on many of my jigs. You can buy a braided cable type weedguard with a small bend in the bottom at Lure Parts Online Buy a length of 1/8 inch (outside diameter) stainless tubing at a hardware store. Cut it to about a 2 inch lengths. Insert two of these wire weedguards inside and lay the tubing in the slot in your mold made for a weed guard (or pull pin). Make sure the loops on the end of the wire lay around the shaft of the jig hook. Then pour the lead. Some lead might get up inside the stailess tube, beside the wire weed guards. If so, use a pir of small pliers to pull the tubing off the weed guards. Then, spread the wires and paint the jighead. I usually paint the wires of the weed guard the same color as the jig. I've done that for years but I don't care what angle the wire is or if it is coated or not, braided or single strand, it doesn't matter, unless it is connected in a loop it doesn't do well in brush and weeds at all. The lakes I fish my jigs in have a mix of weeds and brush just like any other lakes but our fish are smaller and I tend to use smaller jigs in the 1/4oz and 3/8oz a lot. When things are tough you have to downsize and when you go lower weight with the double wire weed guard, the wire likes to hold onto weeds, even the coated stuff, I've used it all and I like the fiber guards better. As for separating them, yes, I've done it and I do it on every jig, but basically it ends up with the weed guard just being fanned out and that is why I like the idea these are made that way, it should make them a little stiffer and with smaller bundles out to the side it should work very well. Thanks for the imput but I'm going to have to try these for myself it seems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bryanmc Posted January 12, 2015 Report Share Posted January 12, 2015 I think they're trying to make a way for guys to copy the Medlock jig without having to make or modify a mold. The problem is (from what I've been told) the Medlock has a full guard on each side, not a half of one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Hahn Posted January 13, 2015 Report Share Posted January 13, 2015 I've done that for years but I don't care what angle the wire is or if it is coated or not, braided or single strand, it doesn't matter, unless it is connected in a loop it doesn't do well in brush and weeds at all. The lakes I fish my jigs in have a mix of weeds and brush just like any other lakes but our fish are smaller and I tend to use smaller jigs in the 1/4oz and 3/8oz a lot. When things are tough you have to downsize and when you go lower weight with the double wire weed guard, the wire likes to hold onto weeds, even the coated stuff, I've used it all and I like the fiber guards better. As for separating them, yes, I've done it and I do it on every jig, but basically it ends up with the weed guard just being fanned out and that is why I like the idea these are made that way, it should make them a little stiffer and with smaller bundles out to the side it should work very well. Thanks for the imput but I'm going to have to try these for myself it seems. I've also made some jigs using stainless wire bent into a loop and hooked under the tip of the hook. Those work fine, too. But, as you noted wire weedguards will grab onto weeds. I tend to fish a lot of wood, where they work fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaw Posted January 20, 2015 Report Share Posted January 20, 2015 I've drilled holes in my finished 1/2 oz arky jigs and added double weedgaurds also poured with double toad hooks just playing around. Worked good but is more work. I posted pics in the gallery abt a year ago doable in small quantities. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallmouthaholic Posted January 20, 2015 Report Share Posted January 20, 2015 I've done that for years but I don't care what angle the wire is or if it is coated or not, braided or single strand, it doesn't matter, unless it is connected in a loop it doesn't do well in brush and weeds at all. The lakes I fish my jigs in have a mix of weeds and brush just like any other lakes but our fish are smaller and I tend to use smaller jigs in the 1/4oz and 3/8oz a lot. When things are tough you have to downsize and when you go lower weight with the double wire weed guard, the wire likes to hold onto weeds, even the coated stuff, I've used it all and I like the fiber guards better. As for separating them, yes, I've done it and I do it on every jig, but basically it ends up with the weed guard just being fanned out and that is why I like the idea these are made that way, it should make them a little stiffer and with smaller bundles out to the side it should work very well. Thanks for the imput but I'm going to have to try these for myself it seems. With all due respect, Dual wire,flexible wire guards w/ coated ends come through brush,lily pads, submerged horizontal wood,standing,green milfoil and rocks w/out a problem no worse then fiber guard jigs. All jigs- w/ wire or fiber guards- become "gunked-up" when they encounter slime weed and algae from nitrogen/phosphorous overload.The designn of the jig head also contributes to weed gathering w/ the bullet head being the best I.M.O. & experience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smalljaw Posted January 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2015 With all due respect, Dual wire,flexible wire guards w/ coated ends come through brush,lily pads, submerged horizontal wood,standing,green milfoil and rocks w/out a problem no worse then fiber guard jigs. All jigs- w/ wire or fiber guards- become "gunked-up" when they encounter slime weed and algae from nitrogen/phosphorous overload.The designn of the jig head also contributes to weed gathering w/ the bullet head being the best I.M.O. & experience. I'm not going to argue with you, the one thing I will tell you is the Surflon 7 strand nylon coated wire with epoxied ends will come through coontail pretty well but add brush to it and after a bit the nylon coating begins to get rough and that is when it begins to grab, never had the problem with fiber guards, but I know, you use stuff that is impervious to anything around and it was designed by NASA. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallmouthaholic Posted January 20, 2015 Report Share Posted January 20, 2015 I'm not going to argue with you, the one thing I will tell you is the Surflon 7 strand nylon coated wire with epoxied ends will come through coontail pretty well but add brush to it and after a bit the nylon coating begins to get rough and that is when it begins to grab, never had the problem with fiber guards, but I know, you use stuff that is impervious to anything around and it was designed by NASA. I don't use Surflon7. The last statement of your final sentence was uncalled for but if it makes you feel superior I'm happy for your ignorance.I never said my products were impervious to anything 1-Aren't you the individual who didn't know the temperature of the lead in their pot or even have the desire to spend the $ for an instrument that could check it accurately? 2-I believe you're also the expert who stated that flutter heads and draggin' heads made no difference w/ snags in rocky environments? Sounds like a bit of jealousy from an individual who didn't wish to progress to custom CNC lead molds. Why do you criticize a custom jig manufacturer who left the constrictions/limits of Do-it molds years ago and was willing to spend a tidy sum of $ on custom,snag resistant CNC designed mold? I'm not the sharpest knife in the drawer but I have paid my dues and will only speak accurately in detail , based upon personal experience and feedback from Pro-staffers and customers. I post on TU to help others-no to sell product-but your snide remarks temper my enthusiasm Here's a 48 minute presentation showing various ,custom jig heads- rigging techniques and underwater action videos for wacky worms, jigs and soft-jerk baits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smalljaw Posted January 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2015 I don't use Surflon7. The last statement of your final sentence was uncalled for but if it makes you feel superior I'm happy for your ignorance.I never said my products were impervious to anything 1-Aren't you the individual who didn't know the temperature of the lead in their pot or even have the desire to spend the $ for an instrument that could check it accurately? 2-I believe you're also the expert who stated that flutter heads and draggin' heads made no difference w/ snags in rocky environments? Sounds like a bit of jealousy from an individual who didn't wish to progress to custom CNC lead molds. Why do you criticize a custom jig manufacturer who left the constrictions/limits of Do-it molds years ago and was willing to spend a tidy sum of $ on custom,snag resistant CNC designed mold? I'm not the sharpest knife in the drawer but I have paid my dues and will only speak accurately in detail , based upon personal experience and feedback from Pro-staffers and customers. I post on TU to help others-no to sell product-but your snide remarks temper my enthusiasm Here's a 48 minute presentation showing various ,custom jig heads- rigging techniques and underwater action videos for wacky worms, jigs and soft-jerk baits. This will be the last time I respond to you, I have a few custom CNC molds and I had a business before getting cancer and it was going well. The reason I made the remark is because I'm asking for help and opinions on a weed guard, I told you how I felt about wire but you insist my finding are wrong yet it has happened and not only me but you have belittled other members here and are actually quite arrogant stating about 20 times over that you only use CNC molds, if that is the case than why are you even here since most are using Do-it molds in stock or slightly modified form. When someone makes a statement you don't agree with you like to try and prove that person that your way is the only way and the only thing you seem to offer is advise that most newcomers to this hobby wouldn't understand but I believe you do that so you feel superior to other members here. As I said, this is the last time I respond to anything you say and I've tried to be nice to you, this thread was done, I posted that I have problems with wire weed guard and I wanted to know about these and you, not liking what I said felt that YOUR information is absolutely correct and I'm somehow wrong, you did it with the small underlined and bold font phrase, "all jigs" to show me I was wrong and as I mentioned before, you like to show people they're wrong. I only come here to help those that ask, I'm done but at least you now know why I made that little remark. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bassinfool Posted January 20, 2015 Report Share Posted January 20, 2015 This will be the last time I respond to you, I have a few custom CNC molds and I had a business before getting cancer and it was going well. The reason I made the remark is because I'm asking for help and opinions on a weed guard, I told you how I felt about wire but you insist my finding are wrong yet it has happened and not only me but you have belittled other members here and are actually quite arrogant stating about 20 times over that you only use CNC molds, if that is the case than why are you even here since most are using Do-it molds in stock or slightly modified form. When someone makes a statement you don't agree with you like to try and prove that person that your way is the only way and the only thing you seem to offer is advise that most newcomers to this hobby wouldn't understand but I believe you do that so you feel superior to other members here. As I said, this is the last time I respond to anything you say and I've tried to be nice to you, this thread was done, I posted that I have problems with wire weed guard and I wanted to know about these and you, not liking what I said felt that YOUR information is absolutely correct and I'm somehow wrong, you did it with the small underlined and bold font phrase, "all jigs" to show me I was wrong and as I mentioned before, you like to show people they're wrong. I only come here to help those that ask, I'm done but at least you now know why I made that little remark. I agree with all of this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bass100 Posted January 20, 2015 Report Share Posted January 20, 2015 The original question was about Barlow's new "Y" weed guards and when someone has used them please post their results here as I agree with smalljaw about the wire weed guards and wood and would like to know how these work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted January 21, 2015 Report Share Posted January 21, 2015 A dumb question....I was taught to fan out a conventional fiber weed guard, so it is, more or less, a single strand thick from one side of the fan to the other. The guard covers the entire front of the jig, but is softer, because it is spread. It still isn't weedless, but it comes through brush and wood pretty well. Has anyone else done this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaw Posted January 21, 2015 Report Share Posted January 21, 2015 A dumb question....I was taught to fan out a conventional fiber weed guard, so it is, more or less, a single strand thick from one side of the fan to the other. The guard covers the entire front of the jig, but is softer, because it is spread. It still isn't weedless, but it comes through brush and wood pretty well. Has anyone else done this? . Mark although I do not fish jigs that often and I am far from a expert I was taught to fan the weed guards just like you stated. I was told it makes for a softer gaurd that is still weedless also but I guess it's up to you if it actually works Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted January 21, 2015 Report Share Posted January 21, 2015 Jaw, It worked for me, back when the SoCal lakes had water and shallow cover. Now they are so low they're all rock and mud, and a few long dead trees. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted January 22, 2015 Report Share Posted January 22, 2015 Yeah, but when they do eventually come back up there will be a ton of new growth underwater. The shallow water bite might be off the hook for the first year or two. I like how you think! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Maxwell Posted January 22, 2015 Report Share Posted January 22, 2015 To the two "Smalls" You sound like my oldest granddaughter. She is in therapy now. Hint. Hint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
