Jump to content
Jig Man

Swing Jigs

Recommended Posts

I have the mold coming in the smaller sizes 1/8 to 7/16.  For those of you who have this what size hooks seem to work best.  I'm going to have to place an order and would like a little guidance before hand.  I'll probably be using  3 1/2" tubes, 5" sticks, and 4-6" craws mostly.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For those baits, you're looking at 3/0 to 4/0 hooks for just about everything. The 3/0 will work in the tube, stick, and a 4" craw, for the 5" and 6" craw I'd use the 4/0. Remember, you don't want any larger hooks as they will create a backbone taking action out of the bait, 3/0 and 4/0 will have more than enough bite for hooking power while keeping enough of the bait free to have a good amount of action.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Jig Man,

     The mold calls out for a 2/0- 8/0 Mustad 38104 hook. I as well have not used or sold any of these with anything bigger than a 5/0 hook. Most of them were 3/0 or 4/0 even on the heaviest size. Like Smalljaw mentioned there really is no need to go bigger. I for the life of me cannot see anyone using an 8/0 hook. To me that would definitely hamper the action of the bait, and going that big would also look very unnatural.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I plan on getting the bigger swing jig mold later this summer. I want to try the one ounce sizes on a three way rig (bottom with a craw) and run a husky jerk on top for walleye (Using it in Indiana where two lures on a line is legal) The smaller swim jig mold works great with craws using 3/0 and 4/0 with craws like Biffle does.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks guys.  I don't even own 5/0 hooks.  I was wondering about the 2/0 for some of the baits like 5" sticks.  The mold came today so I guess I'll get out some hooks and make up a few and see how I like what I get.  I want to be sure as Shorty's only seems to sell by the 1000 ct and I for sure wouldn't want 1000 unusable worm hooks laying around.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the pic Ted.  After trying them both ways that was the one I had chosen but I have been wrong six or several times in the past.

No problem. After last year's debacle with the clips,the leg that Do-It bent on the clips works out much better for the smaller sized pours. Now you won't have to worry about the clip leg not being covered with lead and being partially exposed. They all pour very well for me. Good luck with your pouring.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've been using my mold with some hooks on hand. In order to keep them in place I had to make a platform to hold the hooks which hung over the mold.  It doesn't seem to matter which worm hook or what size I use, they pour.

 

I am, however, having 2 issues:  1.  After they are poured it is a bear to get them out of the mold.  I'm thinking about spraying them with drop out, good idea or not?  2.  I can't use my gate shears to cut off the spru because then get into the wire form, any help there?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Issue #2 is solved.  Still wondering if dropout will help?

 

Boy I sure with we had an edit function in the threads.

If you are willing to spend the time you can polish the inside of your cavities.  I use a dremel and the stone bits.  Once the cavity is smooth you will not have any more sticking problems.  I have never used any mold release spray because I polish my cavities but there are many that like it.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've been using my mold with some hooks on hand. In order to keep them in place I had to make a platform to hold the hooks which hung over the mold.  It doesn't seem to matter which worm hook or what size I use, they pour.

 

I am, however, having 2 issues:  1.  After they are poured it is a bear to get them out of the mold.  I'm thinking about spraying them with drop out, good idea or not?  2.  I can't use my gate shears to cut off the spru because then get into the wire form, any help there?

 On using mold release, that is better than using nothing. However I will agree 100% with bass100 on polishing inside cavities. If you have the time definitely polish out the cavities especially the big surfaces. I have had problems from day 1 with my Brush Jig mold. The grainy surface inside the cavity would make my jig stick inside the mold cavity. Once I polished it, it fell out like butter. Also take a look at the PDF below. I have had to do this to some molds as well, you may not see the burred edge but sometimes it is there.

mold blank .pdf

mold blank .pdf

mold blank .pdf

mold blank .pdf

mold blank .pdf

mold blank .pdf

mold blank .pdf

mold blank .pdf

mold blank .pdf

Edited by cadman
Link to comment
Share on other sites

For those that have been asking, here is how I make them:

 

attachicon.gifswingjigpage1.jpg

attachicon.gifswingjigpage2.jpg

 

These are my personal directions for me to use with the tools that I have so you will have to make the directions fit the tools that you have.

The directions you posted, is that to make the 2nd clip  of the picture you posted in your hand?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks guys.  I"ll dig out my Dremel and see what I can do.  I'll also check for the burr.

 

I have been dinking around with various sizes and shapes of hooks that I have on hand.  The mold is taking any worm hook that I put in it.  I had to put a hook shelf down to get it to do that.

Edited by Jig Man
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...


×
×
  • Create New...
Top