jonister Posted January 15, 2015 Report Share Posted January 15, 2015 So i made this bait modeled after a rapala husky jerk, but when i tested it of course didnt run right. it dove fine, but had too tight a wiggle and no roll. so i checked the rapala lip style and changed my lip some and gave it the wiggle, but it still has no roll. Now i know the signature rapala husky jerk has wiggle and roll. Do any of the experts have any ideas? i am tempted to cut open my rapala but dont want to waste a 8$ lure. Any thoughts? is it just the signature patented action that we will never acheive? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
llokkii Posted January 16, 2015 Report Share Posted January 16, 2015 I came across this website a while back. Might have to look into it. I think they have husky jerks they've x-rayed. Hope it has the info you are looking for.http://thebassman.tripod.com/Rap-Info-22.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonister Posted January 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2015 Thanks! I noticed that the original floater had no weight in it. i didnt see the husky jerk but the original floater is another stick bait so ill maybe try to get rid of balast on my lure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
llokkii Posted January 16, 2015 Report Share Posted January 16, 2015 No problem. Glad I could help a little bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted January 16, 2015 Report Share Posted January 16, 2015 (edited) I think the HJ model listed on the website is a Husky Jerk. Body roll can be enhanced by putting the ballast higher in the lure than normal. I think the higher front ballast in the X-ray of the HJ may be a case in point. That said, jerkbaits to me are one of the hardest type lures to get to work exactly the way you want. I fish with a box full of Lucky Craft and Megabass jerkbaits. I'd build my own if it weren't such a chore to get them right and I consider a $8 Husky Jerk a bargain lure compared to much of the competition. Edited January 16, 2015 by BobP 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted January 16, 2015 Report Share Posted January 16, 2015 I agree with Bob. By putting the ballast a bit higher in the bait it should give you the body roll your looking for. Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted January 16, 2015 Report Share Posted January 16, 2015 Generally speaking, baits with a rounder cross section roll more than flat sided baits. But, like Bob and Ben said ballast location is also very important. I got my spybaits to roll by raising the ballast. 1/3 of it is above the centerline drawn from line tie to rear prop/hook hanger of the bait. Spybaits are just sinking jerkbaits with props front and back, and weighted to fall horizontally and slowly, so it should work for your jerkbaits, too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rowhunter Posted January 16, 2015 Report Share Posted January 16, 2015 Increased lip length should add roll without ballast. Douglas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonister Posted January 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2015 Thanks guys! i will try to raise the balast and see what happens Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted January 17, 2015 Report Share Posted January 17, 2015 Certainly try the high ballast thing as suggested above. Personally, I think you just haven't got the balance between the lip and the tow line correct yet. It is a balance of lip length, width, angle, distance back, all balanced against the tow eye position. I couldn't say if it needs raising or lowering, but it will be one or the other. All the other lure features are in the equation too; shape, density, length etc. If any of these are different then copying the lure isn't going to get you the same Rapala result. When I build my first prototypes for a new bait, I build the tow eye long, so I can bend up and down, to find the best position for the next prototype build. Another way is to make the lip too long and gradually trim the lip back until the lure swims as you want it. With this method, you can have the eye in the nose and still find the balance. This is the way I prefer these days. There is nothing magic, it is just experimentation that is required with any new lure build. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonister Posted January 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2015 My problem was definitely balast, i drilled a hole through the top and put a little lead in it and it runs perfect! thanks for all the help! now all i need is some more epoxy and ill coat and paint. Im probly gona try solarez. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted January 17, 2015 Report Share Posted January 17, 2015 Glad to hear you got it working and that it was a relatively easy fix Jonister. Just be sure to write down everything so you can refer to your notes when you go to build the next one. Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted January 17, 2015 Report Share Posted January 17, 2015 What Ben said x2 - good job Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crankbaits Posted January 17, 2015 Report Share Posted January 17, 2015 Daves advice is right on the money.Take a rapala original floater and tie a clinch knot on the tow eye Then you can change the action by moving the knot up or down on the tow eye. It's been awhile since i've played around with one but it will really change the action of the lure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
