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Ballin21

I Need Some Help Finding A Mold

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http://www.anglerscenter.com/gamefishing-accessories/terminal-tackle/owner-ultrahead-saltwater-bullet-jig-head/

I've been looking for this mold and I have no idea if they even make it or something similar.

I don't beleive any of the Do-it molds mentioned have the offset,dual barbs that the Owner Jig has. Keep in mind that dual barbs will hold soft plastics, especially swim-bait firmly on the hook which is most important w/ missed hook sets and long distance casting w/ a sharp,wrist snap of the rod.

 

It is possible that Owner has a patent on that specific design and they will issue cease and desist letters if you infringe. That said, you will probably have to go custom CNC to duplicate that exact mold.

 

If you only need 50 of those specific jig heads it may be cheaper in the long run to purchase the Owner lead heads

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If you have a couple of the heads  call lurecraft.com and send them the jig heads they can make you a mold out of hi temp silicone. You will have to find a good set of clamps to hold it with so you dont get burnt by the lead. I use a set of wood working clamps to hold mine. I have about 10 mold made that way and their working on 6 more right now.

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It just depends on the size and how many heads you want in it. I think the ones ive been getting start around 30 plus. You can get alot of pours as long as you take care of your mold. usally after I pour about fifteen heads Ill let my mold cool down some. Its a good deal for the money it just takes some time to get used to pouring in them, how tight to put your clamp and temp on the lead.

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A custom,CNC multiple cavity aluminum mold can run upwards of $200- $400.00 depending upon the intricacies involved- especially if you want 3 different size cavities in one mold.One cavity per mold would be cheaper but you'll need 3 molds according to your desired sizes.

 

Making your own barbs in an existing mold is very tricky unless a flash master ,extra barb is acceptable. Both sides of you augmented mold must be exactly the same( depth,width,length) or the added barb will flash rendering the barb useless or a trimming nightmare.

 

RTV silicone for lead molds may not work due to temperature limitations of the high-temp RTV

Temperature range of -65F to 650F intermittent. Intermittent is the key word here.

 

Good luck which every route you decide to pursue.

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Yes you can make your own RTV mold for lead.  I have several.  They are very easy to make.  It is very easy to add a barb to just about any mold that has a hook but it is a wire barb and not a lead barb.  Simply cut a slot the size of the wire you want beside your hook slot in your mold.  Put a small bend on the end of the wire that goes in to the head of your bait and then bend the other end out away from your hook.  You can make the length of the barb as long as you want.  You can add 2 barbs if you want.  It takes less than 5 minutes to modify a cavity for a wire barb.  Here is a pic of a bait with a wire barb.

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Yes you can make your own RTV mold for lead.  I have several.  They are very easy to make.  It is very easy to add a barb to just about any mold that has a hook but it is a wire barb and not a lead barb.  Simply cut a slot the size of the wire you want beside your hook slot in your mold.  Put a small bend on the end of the wire that goes in to the head of your bait and then bend the other end out away from your hook.  You can make the length of the barb as long as you want.  You can add 2 barbs if you want.  It takes less than 5 minutes to modify a cavity for a wire barb.  Here is a pic of a bait with a wire barb.

attachicon.gifP1220173.JPG

 

Here's an option, if you're adding a skirt to your jigs.

You can kill two birds with one stone, so to speak, by tying your skirts on with wire, and bending the left over twisted tag end so it faces to the rear, and parallel to the hook shank.  Just slide your soft plastic up onto the wire as you thread it on.

It holds soft plastic great.

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Yes you can make your own RTV mold for lead.  I have several.  They are very easy to make.  It is very easy to add a barb to just about any mold that has a hook but it is a wire barb and not a lead barb.  Simply cut a slot the size of the wire you want beside your hook slot in your mold.  Put a small bend on the end of the wire that goes in to the head of your bait and then bend the other end out away from your hook.  You can make the length of the barb as long as you want.  You can add 2 barbs if you want.  It takes less than 5 minutes to modify a cavity for a wire barb.  Here is a pic of a bait with a wire barb.

attachicon.gifP1220173.JPG

What is the part number for the RTV you use for your molds? Where do you buy your RTV? Thanks in advance for the help.

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Let the mold cool down between pours.

 

Thanks, I am new to using silicone molds and want to make some saltwater type buck-tail molds.

I want to mold bullet jigs with collar in sizes 1/2 oz to 3 oz lead.

Do you think if I allow the mold to properly cool that I should get at least 100 pours of the 3 oz size before the mold needs replaced?

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Thanks, I am new to using silicone molds and want to make some saltwater type buck-tail molds.

I want to mold bullet jigs with collar in sizes 1/2 oz to 3 oz lead.

Do you think if I allow the mold to properly cool that I should get at least 100 pours of the 3 oz size before the mold needs replaced?

The heaviest bait that is being poured out of these molds right now is 3/4 ounce.  I made the molds and poured 100 baits out of each mold and then I sold the molds to a friend.  He poured one hundred baits out of each and they are still fine.  3 ounces is alot of lead and alot of heat so I can't tell you for sure.

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