zev11 Posted January 28, 2015 Report Share Posted January 28, 2015 I have read the other posts about sealing detailed wood lures to keep carved details for painting but I was wondering if there is a way to seal them that it would be safe to test them in the water for weighting before painting. When I make a swimbait or a topwater lure I usually put the hardware on the lure and seal it with super glue then d2t. I then use a rubber band around the lure and add split sits to the rubber band unroll I get an action close to what I want. I've heard of using boiled linseed oil with features alcohol will this keep all of my details and prevent any water intrusion while testing like this? Any help would be great. *split shots Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathan Posted January 28, 2015 Report Share Posted January 28, 2015 You can soak your bait in any of the concrete sealers discussed for about 3-5 minutes. Let hang for 24-48 hrs to dry and your good to go..Nathan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Moreau Posted January 28, 2015 Report Share Posted January 28, 2015 Just understand that whatever you use to seal may not be compatible with the paint and/or top coat down the road so do a few tests before you have something nice you screw up. I would have to say the best most inert sealer is probably thinned epoxy. super glue is good too but hard to get a uniform surface at least for me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jdeee Posted January 28, 2015 Report Share Posted January 28, 2015 Matt What do you use to thin the epoxy with? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Moreau Posted January 28, 2015 Report Share Posted January 28, 2015 Matt What do you use to thin the epoxy with? I use Denatured Alcohol but I think others have used thinner and such with success. I like to mix part A and B completely before I add a few drops of DA to the mixture...seems to work for me plus I think I read on here if you don't it could cause problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zev11 Posted January 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2015 Thanks for the help I'll probably do a test with the thinned epoxy first since I already have that n see how that works out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted January 28, 2015 Report Share Posted January 28, 2015 Yes, denatured alcohol works very well to thin epoxy. Linseed oil is used by some saltwater wood bait makers to "deep waterproof" lures but I think they immerse them for days and dry them for weeks before painting. I think any quick drying lacquer or polyurethane would work for what you are doing, as well as concrete sealer or propionate. I like the concrete sealer since you can dip it and hang it up to dry overnight, and it gives you a thin waterproof coating that will keep 3D details intact. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
