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surfk9

Azek /pvc Lure Builders

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I've been addicted to this hobby (obsession!!!) for the last eight years.....poplar & basswood have been material of choice...following several years of reading of the benefits of PVC  I ordered an 18 foot piece of Azek trim board....for ballast i've used lead weights (egg sinkers, worm sinkers, pencil lead whatever i need for the particular lure) most of my builds are cranks in the 4-5 inch size, with a few gliders in the 6-8 inch length...Azek appears to be more buoyant than either the poplar or basswood...will I be able to use the same techniques for ballast as I have in the past?? Any suggestions  greatly appreciated, thanks...michel

Edited by surfk9
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Tried to edit the original...couldn't figure out how to edit a second time...another question can i spray createx directly onto the azek without a pre-seal coat (realize i don't need pre-seal for waterproofing...just to make better painting surface)....maybe i should check out my  video fro JR to refresh my senior memory...have tried putting together a lure from JR ...I apparently don't have the PATIENCE he has...mine are not working exactly up to par...my wife says "It's called PRACTICE...MIchel"...gets back to that patience thing LOL

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Hey Surfk,

 

I've been using the trim board for gliders, cranks, sinkers and floaters, suspending, etc. and never had a problem getting enough ballast into them to get the bait to do what I want it to. My largest cranks and gliders aren't as big as what your building as my biggest are usually 4" to 4 1/2". You should have no trouble adding enough ballast even in your larger baits. Bigger bait means more room for ballast.

 

One thing you might want to consider is getting some lead wire to use as ballast. I bought a roll of the 1/4" lead wire from McMaster-Carr. The good thing about using the lead wire is that you can cut a piece, weigh it and keep trimming it until you figure out that a given length gives you a given weight. Plus or minus a wee bit. For the 1/4" wire I know that a 1/4" drill bit will will provide a good fit with enough room for the epoxy.

 

Cutting the lead wire can leave the ends a bit out of round, but all I do after the piece is cut is place it on a flat surface and then place a piece of flat metal over the cut piece and roll it back and forth while applying pressure. This will not only true up the ends it will straighten out any bent sections. Rolling it like that also compresses the lead wire a wee bit making for a good glue joint in a 1/4" hole. For different size wire just use the appropriate drill bit and roll it between a hard surface and the flat metal. The flat metal piece doesn't have to be real thick either. I've used the metal banding material that they strap materials with for shipping.

 

hope this helps, :yay:

 

Ben

 

p.s. I use a heat gun to heat set my paint and if I get too close it can cause the PVC to blister. Just a tiny bunch of bubbles that aggravates the puddin' out of me. For that reason I go ahead and sand the PVC pretty smooth and apply a thin coat of epoxy to it before painting. This gives me a glass smooth surface to paint on and stops the blister problem. I know this adds another step and takes more time, but I don't build baits for sale and don't have a heckuva lot to do anyway. :teef:

Edited by RayburnGuy
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I build muskie baits so your larger baits, the 6 inch one I suggest to use Azex  deck board is a lot stronger, has some kind of wood fiber in it, the white trim board have broken on me, I did hit shore rocks, broke where the lead ballast was located,  at the weakest spot, the wall very thin there due to 1/2 ballast holes, the trim board for the smaller baits works fine. When I ballast my glide baits what I have done that I made a jig out of hardwood with different size diameter holes, I use 3/8 and 1/2 diameter holes for my larger baits. Make the holes deep enough to accept the amount of lead you are going to put inside your bait. Once I know the exact amount of ballast I needI put all the pieces of lead in my small lead ladle, I melt the lead with a propane torch, than pour in one the holes in the jig, than unmold the lead and install in your bait. Note the jig is basically two pieces of hard wood sandwiched together very easy to build. This sounds complicated but its very fast and easy to do

The deck boards I do two sealing coats, because the wood fiber they do raise when they get wet, the trim board no sealing required. For sealing I use Deft Lacquer Sanding sealer, it's a great product, the saltwater guys use it, you can get it at Amazon. I love building baits out of PVC Azex fast and easy, very nice when making a prototype baits, My glide baits have caught many big muskie on LOTW

 

Note I learned all of this on TU and I have come up with some of my own ideas fro my muskie baits building

 

Gino

Edited by spoonpluggergino
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I also use leftover D2T to seal my PVC baits before I paint them, if I am setting a bill with epoxy.

I dip my gloved finger in denatured alcohol, and spread the squeeze out, and any leftover epoxy, to keep the bait's paint from bubbling when i heat set my Createx.

But on lipless baits, like spybaits and top waters, I usually don't bother.  Lazy.

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Gino makes a good point. The deck board is heavier so less ballast would be needed. But seeing as how you've already got the trim board I's say give it a try. Instead of using 1 or 2 of the 1/2" lead wire plugs you might be able to use the 1/4" and just add more ballast locations if the bait your building will allow you to do so.

 

good luck,

 

Ben

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 I recently completed a 10" glide bait and everything went as planned, something I can very rarely say when working on any swimbaits. I used duck decoy weights cut in half width wise. As with any swimbait I make sure the weight is as low in the bait as I can stand. The most important thing with PVC is leaving enough room for the lead and then not interfere with my hardware. On this bait it took 2.5 ounces to get a slight nose down floating bait. The hooks I added made it a super slow sink. I had to go back with the dermal and cut a void to get some more pencil lead above the decoy weights to get the 2.5 oz. of weight. With running the weights running from front to back made for a very stable bait at all speeds and impressive glides.

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TU members thanks for your responses....I'm sure there will be a learning curve (hopefully my blood pressure doesn't go off the chart..i tend to be an excitable boy...read that OLD MAN) yesterday i shaped a 6 inch three pc "glider-style bait"....put the ballast in last evening....whew took awhile six different spots to get the nose down horizontal drop aspect about 11/2 ounces of egg sinkers....filled with bondo...sanded ready to put a thin D2T coat for painting....drilled 3/8 holes with my forstner bit did a little expansion with dremel things went somewhat smoothly....question about the pre-made belly weights ...are the eyes stainless steel??? have never used these...may try them to add  weight therefore trimming the ballast issue ....again thanks...michel

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 The most important thing with PVC is leaving enough room for the lead and then not interfere with my hardware.

On some of my baits Ive had to run the screw eye through the lead to get proper placement for hooks and joints. I just used  screw eyes long enough to go though the lead and into the pvc

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