FATFLATTIE Posted February 17, 2015 Report Share Posted February 17, 2015 I have a particular lure I'd like to replicate. It has a flat side to it so a simole open pour is all thats needed. To make the mild can I simply use the lure itself as the master? Just lay it on the flat side, make a box, and pour the alumalite stuff in there or is that not possible? Thanks in advance guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travis Posted February 17, 2015 Report Share Posted February 17, 2015 As long as the master is secure, so none of the mold making material can pass under it, you are good to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jig Man Posted February 17, 2015 Report Share Posted February 17, 2015 I use double sided tape and a baking pan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FATFLATTIE Posted February 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2015 Thanks a bunch guys! Do you need to cut the double sided tape to fit the bait? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsworms Posted February 18, 2015 Report Share Posted February 18, 2015 I used super glue.......never thought of double-sided tape. DOH!! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baitjunkys Posted February 18, 2015 Report Share Posted February 18, 2015 Pour a thin layer of hot plastic. Stick master down quickly. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglinarcher Posted February 18, 2015 Report Share Posted February 18, 2015 I have a particular lure I'd like to replicate. It has a flat side to it so a simole open pour is all thats needed. To make the mild can I simply use the lure itself as the master? Just lay it on the flat side, make a box, and pour the alumalite stuff in there or is that not possible? Thanks in advance guys. This is exactly what you are wanting to know. Check it out. Other good information can be found at http://www.makelure.com/store/pg/54-How-To-Videos.aspx#prettyPhoto Good lure making. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FATFLATTIE Posted February 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2015 Yep, that is exactly what I was talking about doing. Thanks. Definitely wanna get a cleaner looking mold than that but its the exact process I was thinking of. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travis Posted February 20, 2015 Report Share Posted February 20, 2015 (edited) That video always cracks me up. While it is good as far as basic concepts that is about the worst effort in making a decent mold one could follow. What a waste of money to end up with a mold that has to be spread with your fingers to pour and then has to be trimmed once done pouring the baits. Edited February 20, 2015 by Travis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travis Posted February 20, 2015 Report Share Posted February 20, 2015 Vasoline will also work if you just lightly smear some on the center of the bait. Ideally you don't want it to leak around the sides so very little is needed. I have used double sticky tape but more finicky than the vasoline in my opinion as I don't want it sticking out past the master. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bryanmc Posted February 20, 2015 Report Share Posted February 20, 2015 I've found that pouring a scrap plastic base in my mold box and then using mend-it to secure my original to it works really well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglinarcher Posted February 21, 2015 Report Share Posted February 21, 2015 That video always cracks me up. While it is good as far as basic concepts that is about the worst effort in making a decent mold one could follow. What a waste of money to end up with a mold that has to be spread with your fingers to pour and then has to be trimmed once done pouring the baits. I am glad you find the humor. Considering the video was for basic first timers and done a long time ago, I always considered it a good novice primer. Other mold making features on that site have evolved to reflect better ideas, better molds, etc., but, I can only offer the path, I can not make anyone take the first step, or follow the directions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FATFLATTIE Posted February 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2015 Thanks again guys for all the replies! Will be ordering some alumalite very soon and give it a shot. Gotta get through the learning curve but its just another part of this awesome lure making hobby! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cbread76 Posted February 24, 2015 Report Share Posted February 24, 2015 I'm getting started too, that carry the Alumilite at Hobby Lobby. You can google for a 40% off coupon like I did. Went from $30 to $17. It was neat, but I just figured out how to use Plaster of Paris. That's how I'm gonna do it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
K.BAITS Posted March 7, 2015 Report Share Posted March 7, 2015 I want to make mold of aluminum What cnc machine to acquire? That tell: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Latest-CNC-3040-Z-S-4axis-cnc-router-CNC-3040Z-S-4th-axis-water-cooled-engraving/1105429110.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texacan84 Posted March 8, 2015 Report Share Posted March 8, 2015 On the suject of Alumilite, i just bought some Alumilite HS3 from Hobby Lobby, now im wishing i would have read this earlier about the 40% coupon...lol.. I've never used before but I'm making my master molds with it which the actual master is made of balsa wood, this is for pouring an open pour bait. What is the best release agent to use, if any and is it possible to pour the Alumilite and then put the product in it from the top without the balsa wood floating and not staying in? Any help on this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance...George Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
llokkii Posted March 8, 2015 Report Share Posted March 8, 2015 While I am not sure, I would think you would need to seal that Balsa wood master first before you do anything else. I've never tried it before so I am only guessing. As far as pouring the mold making material without having the balsa wood secured, I think that might be kind of sketchy. Again I don't know for sure. If it was me, I'd find a way to secure it before pouring anything. Nothing more disheartening than spending all that time getting a mold ready and pouring only to realize you should have done something a bit different after the fact and ending up with a useless (practically useless) mold. Not to mention expensive.Having made a few dozen molds, I can honestly tell you that in my opinion, you can't check and double check everything enough. I've botched plenty of them. Don't rush the process and read the directions several times until you have them memorized.Maybe some of these other guys have different opinions. I've never tried making a mold of anything made of balsa yet, so maybe it is possible. I just think it might be a bit porous and your mold will end up producing blanks that need a lot of sanding. My thought on that is why make the extra work on yourself if you don't have to?Hope that helped Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texacan84 Posted March 8, 2015 Report Share Posted March 8, 2015 Thanks fellas for the info. I know this sounds weird but i put about 4-5 coats of clear fingernail polish on them so I'm hoping that would be enough. Just really worried about the masters sticking. Tried it with 100% GE silicone on another fellas advice and it turned out to be a nightmare. I'm wondering if there is anything to put on them so they dont stick. Thanks again....George Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texacan84 Posted March 10, 2015 Report Share Posted March 10, 2015 Thanks for the input Bob. The instructions that i read mentioned baby powder, which in a way makes sense, but on the other hand I'm not sure if it's slick enough to release it from the mold, i may have to go with the spray on canola oil which makes perfect sense. It boils down to i just have to do it one way or the other and just pray it works. Thanks again.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaw Posted March 10, 2015 Report Share Posted March 10, 2015 Seal your balsa with epoxy then if you feel the need for a mold release use a little petroleum jelly. Heat the jelly up a little then paint a thin layer on if you want this will help break the suave tension when demolding but is not necessarily needed as rtv silicone will only bond to itself. Mold release is usually used on two piece molds to keep the two halves from bonding to each other when making the mold. The baby powder tip you mentioned is used to make smoother pours when you are casting with resins. You just brush on a little powder in your mold and dust out or blow out the excess. This has been my experience with rtv molds there are a lot of guys in the hard bait section that have mastered this type mold making and may have more tips and tricks. Hope this helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaw Posted March 10, 2015 Report Share Posted March 10, 2015 That should read surface tension. Also on the subject of just pushing your master into the mixed rtv don't do it. Secure your master in your mold box,tube or whatever your using firmly and pour the rtv from a hieght sufficient enough to allow air bubbles in you mix to disappate as much as possible. Pour an even stream and slowly to keep from trapping air in your mold. It doesn't hurt to cover your master first with a brushed on layer of rtv to help eliminate air pockets in your mold cavity. If you intend on making two piece molds using clay make sure your clay does not contain sulfur. Sulfur prohibites rtv from curing 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRammit Posted March 12, 2015 Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 No release agent needed with the RTV... Its flexible and strong.. Pull, tug, bend all you need to get the master out, wont change the mold at all..... But your balsa (or anything else buoyant) will float out of the silicone... Has to be glued down or othrrwise secured 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRammit Posted March 12, 2015 Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 However, sealing is a good idea.. Not for release, but for texture.. RTV will pick up the FINEST detail! Even grit marks from your sand paper will show up in your finished baits Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRammit Posted March 12, 2015 Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 However, sealing is a good idea.. Not for release, but for texture.. RTV will pick up the FINEST detail! Even grit marks from your sand paper will show up in your finished baits Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texacan84 Posted March 13, 2015 Report Share Posted March 13, 2015 Thank you JRammit for the info. I do have details on the balsa wood but mostly undercuts in the worms i designed. They are sealed pretty good but im just hoping they dont tear the RTV in the undercuts as I'm trying to get them out, had that problem with silicone even after i put a coating to release them. Thanks again.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
