MuskyGary Posted February 22, 2015 Report Share Posted February 22, 2015 I am thinking about using a water base polyurethane for a wood sealer on some wood surface baits I'm making. I use Createx water color paint and was told it could react with a oil base poly? Any comments? I don't like to use Exposys. I have been using plastic blanks up to now so I didn't need a sealer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Musky Glenn Posted February 22, 2015 Report Share Posted February 22, 2015 Water based urethanes will seal the wood and make for a smooth surface when sanded, but it won't be a water proof sealer. I doubt you would have trouble putting water based paints over oil urethanes, but you might have trouble if you put oil based urethanes over water based paints. I don't see water based urethanes being an end to your troubles but I might be wrong. Just my $.02 worth. Musky Glenn 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MuskyGary Posted February 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2015 I just need something to seal the wood before painting. I use Solarez as a top coat. I would prefer to use a wood sealer that I could dip, dry and sand to get ready to paint. Any sugestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Moreau Posted February 22, 2015 Report Share Posted February 22, 2015 Get one of the concrete sealers out that are being talked about. I am using AC1315 now and it works good...has some issues for top coat but as a sealer it seems fine. With Solarez as the top coat u should be good to go! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MuskyGary Posted February 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2015 Thanks, I'm going to try some of the concrete sealer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted February 22, 2015 Report Share Posted February 22, 2015 If you've already got the SolarEz then why don't you use that to seal your baits? I know of several guys that tried it as a top coat and didn't like the haze so they're using it as a sealer. Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodieb8 Posted February 22, 2015 Report Share Posted February 22, 2015 use the best you can get. many folks don't realize. the temperature fluctuations on musky lures due to geographic areas plays a part. in the northern half of n.a. temps go from 32-82 fareinheight. can create issues.. woods expand/contract. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MuskyGary Posted February 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 Solarez needs to be used outside (because of the smell) and I'm looking for something I can use in my basement. Thinking concrete sealer will have less smell and I can dip and hang the baits. My solarez baits that I use it as a top coat I put on a lure turner for about a hour. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bass100 Posted February 23, 2015 Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 Solarez needs to be used outside (because of the smell) and I'm looking for something I can use in my basement. Thinking concrete sealer will have less smell and I can dip and hang the baits. My solarez baits that I use it as a top coat I put on a lure turner for about a hour. I guess different brands have different smells but the AC1315 has way more smell than Solarez. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MuskyGary Posted February 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 Great, maybe I need to wait for it to warm up before I start on wood baits. I still have a bunch of plastic baits I can paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaw Posted February 23, 2015 Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 What about superglue the smell dissipates pretty quick and it dries fast use the thin superglue and the wood soaks it up pretty well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted February 23, 2015 Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 use the best you can get. many folks don't realize. the temperature fluctuations on musky lures due to geographic areas plays a part. in the northern half of n.a. temps go from 32-82 fareinheight. can create issues.. woods expand/contract. Woodie is right, wood moves with temperature changes, so having a sealer that will move with it, in fact a whole painting system that moves with the wood is critical, and the top coat is the most important part of all. The larger the bait, the larger the wood movement when temperatures change, unless it's an oily wood, like mahogany, and those oily woods are very heavy, and hard to paint. The only foolproof paint system I found for wooden baits was using rattle can paints for everything. Something about a solvent/oil based paint really penetrates the wood, and makes it almost bullet proof. But I found I was very limited in my painting options with rattle cans, so I began exploring water based air brush paints. Most of them are designed for T shirt painting, so they remain flexible even after they've been heat set with a clothes iron on it's highest setting. But they require too high a temperature to truly achieve the molecular change that makes them waterproof to make them practical for bait painting. So I found myself searching for a flexible protective top coat. The only top coat that I found that really gave my larger wooden baits a chance to move without cracking was a decoupage epoxy, either E tex or Nu Lustre 55. Both are designed to cover large wooden surfaces, like table tops and bars, and to move with the wood's movement. Because they remain flexible, they also dented instead of chipping when I did a "lure test" by hitting a rock with my cast. Always on purpose, of course! Hahaha Trying to make a wooden bait that won't move is impossible. The Egyptians used wood, driven into grooves chiseled into the top of blocks of stone, and then soaked with water so it expanded and split the rock, to quarry their building stone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathan Posted February 23, 2015 Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 The concrete sealers should do well for you as a wood sealer. Ben.. I didn't have a lot of luck using Solrez as a sealer..It would soak in the wood at different depths and cured the surface would be uneven..Now after the wood was sealed with a concrete sealer..then Solrez ..you would have a great surface to paint on..Nathan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted February 23, 2015 Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 Oh OK Nate. I might have misunderstood how you and Bob were using it. My bad. Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Musky Glenn Posted February 23, 2015 Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 I spray mine with Krylon made for plastic. If you are set on dipping, why not get a gallon of exterior white latex house paint, dip and let dry, sand and dip again, this should give a very nice base of white to start painting over. Good luck Musky Glenn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MuskyGary Posted February 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 Now that sounds good! I might just look into Krylon or Rustolem to see what they got in the way of sealers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Musky Glenn Posted February 23, 2015 Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 MuskyGary, There are many ways to seal wood correctly. Some products that seal wood are not called sealers. Sealers usually are clear or semi clear, which will still require two coats of a white base coat before you start painting. For myself, I try to get sealed and white at the same time. It just saves a step and it keeps me from mixing different products and worrying about compatibility. Everyone wants their way to be the best, the chance of mine being the best is slim, but it works for me. You just have to find a system that works for you. Musky Glenn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saltshaker Posted February 23, 2015 Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 (edited) Here's what a drastic change in temp will do to the finish on a wooden lure. Oops, pics didn't take. Edited February 23, 2015 by saltshaker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seeking 56 Posted February 24, 2015 Report Share Posted February 24, 2015 (edited) I've never experienced contraction or expansion with any wood I've used and my lures are subjected to some pretty extreme warm / cold conditions. I've been experimenting with Titebond 3 waterproof glue the last few years and I'm going to stick with it because it's gets really hard when it cures after 3-4 days. Prior to this glue I was using a high quality water based exterior latex primer. The trick is to leave the wood coarse prior to sealing. The sealer, whether primer, glue or epoxies have more bite than if you sanded the blank smooth. Rattlecan several coats over your sealer let cure for a couple of days, wet sand to a smooth finish, then you're ready for the paint scheme. These are ready to be sealed. One blank is mahoganey and the other with the hole is select cedar. This select cedar is more expensive than cedar lumber but the grain is tighter and I don't have to contend with knots and wide irregular grain. Woodie I meant to tell you, the reason I don't use Honduran mahoganey is that it's not always available. s56 Edited February 24, 2015 by Seeking 56 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodieb8 Posted February 24, 2015 Report Share Posted February 24, 2015 yep Honduras is protected now in s. America. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted February 24, 2015 Report Share Posted February 24, 2015 Any penetrating sealer will require some sanding to achieve a smooth surface to paint. If you're using water based paints over it, it's a good idea to apply a second coat of sealer, because the sanded ends of the open grain can swell from the water in the paint if not resealed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
