vytautas Posted July 30, 2004 Report Share Posted July 30, 2004 Hi there! That's the stuff, that I promised 1. Cut the prototype. Any kind of hard plastic will be good, but I use kind of polyethylene. (pict. 1) 2. Prepare the tin board and cut out the profile of the lure. It can be not very tight, make it 1-2 millimeters bigger. (pict. 2) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vytautas Posted July 30, 2004 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2004 3. Coat the tin and prototype with Ease Release (Smooth-on). Put the prototype in the hole and fasten it with tape. Side A must be more raised, because on this side we will puor the epoxy. (pict. 3,4) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vytautas Posted July 30, 2004 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2004 4. Put tin with prototype side B up into the plate with water. The water will not let the wax flow out trough the hole between prototype and tin (pict. 5) 5. Pour the hot wax from candle to cover all surface of lure and more ? make a 1? coat of wax. (pict. 6, 7) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vytautas Posted July 30, 2004 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2004 6. Remove excess of wax from side A. (pict. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vytautas Posted July 30, 2004 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2004 7. Cut into the pieces any plastic sheets. make a box out of them (pict. 10) and glue it on the tin with prototype (pict. 11) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vytautas Posted July 30, 2004 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2004 8. Fasten up everything with the tape (pict. 12) and pour the epoxy into the box. And leave it over night. 9. That?s what came out in the morning ? remove the tin with prototype and polish the mold. (pict. 13,14) we have one part of 2 part epoxy mold. Uffff? sorry guys, hope you?ll understand everything To be continued? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lurecarver23 Posted July 30, 2004 Report Share Posted July 30, 2004 Hello, Great post. How and what do you use to polish the mold? Also where do you get your supplies(the polyetholene and mold supplies) and what was the mold made of? Excellent information!!! Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisfish Posted August 2, 2004 Report Share Posted August 2, 2004 Thanks for the great post! If someone wants to use a wood prototype I suggest to paint it. I look forward to part2! Best regards, Christoph Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Husky Posted August 2, 2004 Report Share Posted August 2, 2004 8. Fasten up everything with the tape (pict. 12) and pour the epoxy into the box. And leave it over night.9. That?s what came out in the morning ? remove the tin with prototype and polish the mold. (pict. 13' date='14) we have one part of 2 part epoxy mold. Uffff? sorry guys, hope you?ll understand everything [b']To be continued? [/b] Thanks Vy, That mold release frim Smoothon actually allow the palstic model to release with ease? What kind of resin are you using, please. Looking foward to the Sequel. : Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vytautas Posted August 3, 2004 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2004 Hello' date=' Great post. How and what do you use to polish the mold? Also where do you get your supplies(the polyetholene and mold supplies) and what was the mold made of? Excellent information!!! Thanks[/quote'] I polish the molds with sanding paper. I glue the paper to the table, it makes a even, smooth surface of mold. I do not polish "inside" of the mold, I polish only flat surface. I get my supplies from local shops - polyetholene from a plastics shop (it carries all kind of plastics, films, etc.) Mold was made from 2 part epoxy. I don't know the brand, because I bought it from a guy, that makes car tuning. This epoxy is made for working with fibreglass fabric. It needs only 1-2% hardener. But it doesn't matter, because the mold can be made from any kind of epoxy, plastic etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vytautas Posted August 3, 2004 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2004 Thanks for the great post!If someone wants to use a wood prototype I suggest to paint it. I look forward to part2! Best regards' date=' Christoph[/quote'] As I use a "nasty" epoxy, I can?t use a wooden prototype. When it hardens, it heats up to the high temperatures, all kind of paint melts down Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vytautas Posted August 3, 2004 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2004 That mold release frim Smoothon actually allow the palstic model to release with ease? yes, it releases model with ease. You can pull out it with fingers, no tools needed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisfish Posted August 3, 2004 Report Share Posted August 3, 2004 Hmm, with this small % amount of hardener it looks more like an Polyester then an Epoxy. If you try an Epoxy you will see that (depending on brand) in general the heat is not as high as with Polyester. For Polyester my shop suggests a maximum height of about 1" (3 cm) per cast, or heat will be too high.... But if it works for you, go on! I look forward how you solve the problem to get two matching halves. I don't have any idea yet. Best regards, Christoph Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vytautas Posted August 6, 2004 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2004 So, here is part two 1. Mark the hook eye place, and drill the holes. Diameter must be the same as the hook eyes. 2. Polish round brass rods so they have a cone shape. Glue into the holes. 3. Cut a thin piece of the same plastic, that was used for prototype (it can be any kind of plastic) Drill the holes and mark hook eye placement, then cut it off with an exacto knife. Do the same for the line tie eye. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vytautas Posted August 6, 2004 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2004 4. Put the prototype back into the first halve of the mold and place those hook eye slots onto the brass ?? 5. From the same plastic make a ?foam excess come out slots?. Here I must say, that I am doing this way first time. In my past molds, I used one ?foam excess come out slot? on the head of lure. This time I decided to do different. As I dip my lures in base coat tail down, the layer of basecoat down to the tail is thicker, so I hope it will hide all the roughness. It is critical to make those ?foam excess come out slots? as much bigger as possible, to prevent ?foam jam?. As you can see, the area, where ?foam excess come out slot? connects with the lure is very small. 6. Glue the box again. Put the small plastic triangle in the corner of the box ? it will ease the mold separating when it will be ready, and during the lure making process. The mold is ready for pour. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vytautas Posted August 6, 2004 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2004 And that?s it. My second halve is drying overnight, I will post the pictures, when it will be ready. I?ll see, if my new ?two foam excess come out slots theory? will be good or not The idea of this epoxy mold was taken from www.vlasenko.ru I?ve put in it something from my self, hope you?ll try and add something from yourselves. This is the way for all good ideas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Husky Posted August 6, 2004 Report Share Posted August 6, 2004 And that?s it. My second halve is drying overnight' date=' I will post the pictures, when it will be ready. I?ll see, if my new ?two foam excess come out slots theory? will be good or not The idea of this epoxy mold was taken from [url']www.vlasenko.ru[/url] I?ve put in it something from my self, hope you?ll try and add something from yourselves. This is the way for all good ideas Thanks Vy, I do have one question. In part 2, youy made no mention of mold release application. I assume that the procedure is the same as in part 1. We all know seperating the two epoxy halve will be quite a task if the release agent isn't done exactly correct. Can't wait for the trilogy! And how do you make the models so symetrical, so they don't have undercuts and are identical on both sides? You, my friend are a bit of a sculptor. BTW, the www.vlasenko.ru site made for some challenging reading. :oops: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vytautas Posted August 7, 2004 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2004 ooohhh, I've forgot to mention the mold release!!! Yes, it is necessery to apply mold release to the first halve of mold. I polish it 2-3 times to get the perfect surface. When you split to halves of mold, the second one will have also perfect finish. I've tried my new mold - there is no "flash" all you need is to press the mold well. :idea: I think, next time I will try to make mold with bolts as for models - yes, it is complicated to make them symetrical. I can say, that this is the hardest thing in mold making Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Art Brush Posted August 8, 2004 Report Share Posted August 8, 2004 Vytautas, Thanks for the awesome post. I think a few of the fellas in soft plastics who have attempted 2 part resin molds might find this helpful. The Ease release you are using is made by Mann's. They supply Smooth-on with many variations of mold release agents.. http://www.mann-release.com/erelease.htm I've tried the 800 formulated for releasing RTV from RTV and swear by it. A little goes a long way. 2 fine mists is all it takes and the 2nd mold half almost falls off the first half when demolding. What ease release are you using for the epoxy resins? Do you need to apply any before casting the foam-it? Tight lines, Shawn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vytautas Posted August 16, 2004 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2004 Vytautas' date='I've tried the 800 formulated for releasing RTV from RTV and swear by it. A little goes a long way. 2 fine mists is all it takes and the 2nd mold half almost falls off the first half when demolding. What ease release are you using for the epoxy resins? Do you need to apply any before casting the foam-it? Tight lines, Shawn[/quote'] Oh, after your post I've looked at the ease-release botle and saw, that it is made by by Mann's I use a 2831 and it works for me very good. When the molds are made, I apply this agent after pouring 3-4 lures. Polish with soft cloth and my molds shine like a mirror Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
