Dutchgfx Posted March 9, 2015 Report Share Posted March 9, 2015 Hey guys, I'm a new member here, just started to pour my own baits. I have been making some plaster of Paris molds and sealing them with mod podge, and the molds are decent. I am interested in the 10" and 6" sluggo molds from lure craft, will these be pretty much replicas of the real slugo? I'm also worried that my baits won't come out shiny when using the lure craft molds. My baits come out sort of shiny from the plaster molds, but not that shiny. Also, I'm wondering if Silicone molds are better than PoP molds. It is much more expensive to produce them, so I want to make sure it's worth it. Thanks a bunch! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kajan Posted March 9, 2015 Report Share Posted March 9, 2015 I am sure everyone will have differant opinions. What you are doing now is good, and will help you get all your designs down before moving on to what I think is extremely better, silicone. Once you have all the kinks out of your lures you designed, RTV silicone gives you some great one pc molds. These molds will give shiney lures as long as your masters are done slick. (non porous) 2 pc molds can be done with differant materials as well as RTV and come out nice. Make sure to make those fit 5/8" injectors they use now. RTV molds you make could be much much better quality than many you could buy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Basscandy92040 Posted March 9, 2015 Report Share Posted March 9, 2015 I have a bunch of LC molds and they work great. I have the 6 inch Sluggo mold and it is just like the real sluggo. Shinny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dutchgfx Posted March 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2015 I made a 2 piece ronz mold and it turned out really well. I shoved it into the top of the bottom pour of plaster about halfway, then let it harden and poured another layer. Since the ronz is flat on the top, I cut the side of my mold until I reached the top of the lure, and now I just stand the mold on its back side and pour vertically. Thanks for all your help! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aulrich Posted March 9, 2015 Report Share Posted March 9, 2015 I started with a 2lb silicon kit and that was fun, it hurt when the shapes I made were not quite right, to a certain extent the silicon is recyclable but it’s still is the biggest expense in the process. But I switch over to Durham’s( a POP equivalent) I figure there are two skills I need to learn. making the masters, and making the molds, and that is much more doable with the cheaper materials. As I collect shapes I like and catch fish with then I will upgrade the mold material to get a more refined look or use an injector vs open pour. I am still in play mode get an idea, make a shape in modeling clay and make a mold and pour some. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gone2long Posted March 9, 2015 Report Share Posted March 9, 2015 You cannot go wrong with Lurecraft molds they are very good and last for a very long time. I have loads of them and are still my goto for some of the hand pours I do and most of my stuff is injection these days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dutchgfx Posted March 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2015 So I started pouring today with a gallon of plastic from Spike-It Outdoors. I got the medium strength, but my lures seem VERY soft and wiggly, nothing like any production bait I have used. They also seem to be sort of sticky on the outside, any help? Maybe it's just garbage plastisol? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsworms Posted March 9, 2015 Report Share Posted March 9, 2015 So I started pouring today with a gallon of plastic from Spike-It Outdoors. I got the medium strength, but my lures seem VERY soft and wiggly, nothing like any production bait I have used. They also seem to be sort of sticky on the outside, any help? Maybe it's just garbage plastisol? Did you make sure to mix it well? There is usually hardener that has settled to the bottom that REALLY needs to be mixed well before pouring. Very common mistake for new pourers............ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dutchgfx Posted March 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2015 You mean like shake it a ton? The actual plastisol container? I shook it for like 15 seconds if that counts at all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tsic Posted March 10, 2015 Report Share Posted March 10, 2015 Maybe they just need to cure for awhile, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSC Posted March 10, 2015 Report Share Posted March 10, 2015 (edited) Look at the bottom of the jug and I think you will find a heavy coating ... gotta mix it well. Edited March 10, 2015 by JSC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dutchgfx Posted March 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2015 How long would they need to cure for? It's been 4 hours. I shook the jug up again and I'm going to pour in a little while. I'll let you know Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dutchgfx Posted March 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2015 Well it seems they are a bit harder after shaking the container. But now I have one more problem remaining, my plastisol never gets clear. There are always millions of little tiny air bubbles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Basscandy92040 Posted March 10, 2015 Report Share Posted March 10, 2015 Oh no. The tiny bubble issue has raised its head again... I have been using LW plastic for quite some time. The bubble can be problematic. However, if you heat up at half power it helps. It takes longer to heat up but that's what I do. I also do most of my pouring in Lee Pots so if there are some bubbles they rise to the top after a little time. After heating you can let plastic sit for a bit and allow the bubbles to rise then just use a spoon to scoop them out. Shake/mix well. I use a combo of soft and hard for my plastics. I experienced for the first time what happened to you. It was a few days since I poured last and mixed up my soft plastic in 5 gal bucket. I just scooped some out and poured without remixing and the baits were super soft and didn't harden up....Dummy me, I should have mixed it again.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted March 11, 2015 Report Share Posted March 11, 2015 Use a digital thermometer to be sure you get your plastisol up to 350 degrees on the first heating, so it converts to it's clear stage. If you don't, it will never "set", and will always feel sticky/gooey. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duane's Custom Baits Posted March 13, 2015 Report Share Posted March 13, 2015 I have over 40 different Lure Craft molds and they work great, and they are great people to work with, been dealing with them for a little over 13 yrs 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsworms Posted March 13, 2015 Report Share Posted March 13, 2015 I have over 40 different Lure Craft molds and they work great, and they are great people to work with, been dealing with them for a little over 13 yrs +1 Not a darn thing wrong with LC molds. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slammingjack Posted March 14, 2015 Report Share Posted March 14, 2015 I have LC molds and MF hard poly. molds. I wish MF more molds to choose from. I got a few that I have poured 100's of times and they are still as shinny as the first pour. They do warp the bottom of the mold after awhile but the pour is still good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stock's Lures Posted March 14, 2015 Report Share Posted March 14, 2015 Well it seems they are a bit harder after shaking the container. But now I have one more problem remaining, my plastisol never gets clear. There are always millions of little tiny air bubbles. I use Do-Its Essential Series Plastisol. I have found that it has the least amount of bubbles in any plastisol i have bought. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tsic Posted March 14, 2015 Report Share Posted March 14, 2015 I have been using Do-it's crystal clear for awhile now and just got my first (box) of Essential Series Haven't shot much with it but so far I really like it. I have only heated a few 1/2 cups in micro, will try heating a bigger batch tomorrow in my presto-pot to shoot some tubes,so far it seems to have less smell,so my wife tells me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
