TableRockstar Posted March 24, 2015 Report Share Posted March 24, 2015 (edited) Hello everyone, I just joined this morning and I custom paint a little. I haven't painted all that long but really enjoy it. What I've found is that it takes awhile mixing 2 part epoxy up to put the topcoat on the crankbaits. I really like the way the 2 part dries and everything but I would really like to save time by spraying a clear coat on. Is there a really good spray-on clear coat that anyone would recommend? Sincerely, Andy Edited March 24, 2015 by TableRockstar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mohawkman Posted March 24, 2015 Report Share Posted March 24, 2015 GST sprays well but you waste a lot in the process Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fatfingers Posted March 24, 2015 Report Share Posted March 24, 2015 Envirotex used to offer a spray can version. I tried it once. It goes on very very thin and requires multiple coats for most scenarios. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sonoman Posted March 24, 2015 Report Share Posted March 24, 2015 Automotive 2 part urethane...expensive and toxic but works very well, a well done devcon job imo looks better and is more durable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted March 24, 2015 Report Share Posted March 24, 2015 (edited) Spray-on clear coats atomize the clear coat, so you need to use a good respirator to protect yourself. I find dipping in AC1315 is much easier and faster. It is dead clear, durable, and easy to use. It is solvent based, so do it outside, or inside with good ventilation. I dip and hang outside in my driveway. If I have to dip inside, I use a box fan at the back of my garage, with the door back there open, blowing across where I dip/hang the baits, and the big overhead door open at the same time. Plus a mask. Edited March 24, 2015 by mark poulson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ichthus Posted March 24, 2015 Report Share Posted March 24, 2015 I'm with mark on the MCU. You can dip your bait, and while you wait get painting on some more! Plus, you don't need to worry about rotating and getting small inconsistencies. I use AC1315 but people also really like KBS diamondcoat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
llokkii Posted March 24, 2015 Report Share Posted March 24, 2015 Since I don't have easy access to Ac1315, I use GST but I dip it. Super quick, clear and it really brings out the colors on my baits. Pretty tough from what I've seen so far. I think AC1315 is supposed to be a bit harder so I have plans on picking some of that up first chance I get. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted March 24, 2015 Report Share Posted March 24, 2015 Since I don't have easy access to Ac1315, I use GST but I dip it. Super quick, clear and it really brings out the colors on my baits. Pretty tough from what I've seen so far. I think AC1315 is supposed to be a bit harder so I have plans on picking some of that up first chance I get. Here's the link, and they ship almost anywhere: http://www.directcolors.com/product/ac-1315-high-gloss-concrete-sealer/ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
llokkii Posted March 25, 2015 Report Share Posted March 25, 2015 Thanks Mark! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TableRockstar Posted March 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2015 Thanks to everyone! Who makes the AC 1315? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TableRockstar Posted March 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2015 Ok I just bought some of the AC 1315. How do you all dip your baits? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ichthus Posted March 26, 2015 Report Share Posted March 26, 2015 you just dip really quick, then hang by the eyes. i use paper clips ran through the eye holes. After the first coat dries, i usually do another. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TableRockstar Posted March 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2015 How do you keep from getting the paper clip stuck to the eyelets? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ichthus Posted March 26, 2015 Report Share Posted March 26, 2015 it gets stuck. but its never hard to take out. even with epoxy. a little twisting and it's out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TableRockstar Posted March 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2015 Ok great! Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuntGruntLures Posted March 26, 2015 Report Share Posted March 26, 2015 Has anyone tried ac1315 on soft plastic baits,or what do they use??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ichthus Posted March 27, 2015 Report Share Posted March 27, 2015 Ive also wondered what they use on soft baits I've just never asked since I only pour drop shot worms for myself lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ravenlures Posted March 29, 2015 Report Share Posted March 29, 2015 How does the AC 1315 hold up on the lips after hitting the rocks does it start to peel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted March 29, 2015 Report Share Posted March 29, 2015 So far, it has not peeled. I fished some wiggle warts and DT16s that I had painted and dipped hard across the rocks for several trips, trying to get deflections, and the AC1315 on the lips has held up fine. I have had other coatings (urethanes) peel, so I have been pleasantly surprised. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrophyFishR Posted April 2, 2015 Report Share Posted April 2, 2015 Mark, Do you like AC1315 better than solarez? I tried Plasti Dip tonight & didn't like the peeling effect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted April 2, 2015 Report Share Posted April 2, 2015 (edited) I do, for several reasons. First, it is thinner, so it doesn't add much weight to a lure. Second, it is crystal clear, so what I paint is what I get. Third, it is strong, and bonds well. I dipped some Predator Baits wiggle wart's that I had painted, including the bills. I've fished several of them really hard, so the plastic on the edge of the bill is scuffed and worn, but the coating the rest of the bill is still bonded well, and the paint on the bill is fine. It does have fumes, which I don't like, but it flashes off really fast (the solvent leaves), and dries hard enough to handle in an hour, if I help the curing with my hair dryer. I do my dipping outside, with good ventilation. If I had to dip and cure inside, I would do in under a kitchen hood (they have explosion-proof motors) that was vented to the outside, to get the fumes out completely. But I would not use the hood in my kitchen!!! I still like Solarez for really quick builds, since I can dip it and cure it in 5 minutes, total, and be ready to fish as soon as it's out of the UV light box. I used Solarez to clear some Poe's deep divers I redid for a friend. Their bills were installed crooked, so I heated the bills and twisted them straight, and then reweighted them (he wanted suspend/slow rise), repainted them, and dipped them in the Solarez because I wanted the resin to reinforce the bills that had been heated and twisted. So far they've held up fine. Edited April 2, 2015 by mark poulson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TableRockstar Posted April 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2015 Just started dipping my first baits this evening using the AC. My paper clip came off of the bait and I didn't get it out for probably 30 seconds. After hanging it up, the bait bubbled up all over. Then another one bubbled up later. Is this because I'm leaving them in too long? Also, some of the eyelets are filled in and dry. How hard is it going to be to get them out so that I can put an O-ring in? Or better yet, how do I prevent this from happening? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ichthus Posted April 3, 2015 Report Share Posted April 3, 2015 You just dip em' real quick. Mark knows all the tricks to keeping the bubbles away. He told me to paint in REALLY thin coats and make sure each coat is heat set. That helped. Heat setting is really important. I'm guessing you never bought cheap crappie jigs when you were younger. Lol. If you did, you would know that the stuff is relatively easy to get out of the eyes. There's no way to prevent it that is worth your time. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TableRockstar Posted April 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2015 Ok thank you! Also, is there any way to remove it without damaging the crankbait? Is there any sign of yellowing afterwards? One more question, it doesn't seem like the clear coat is very thick or shiny. Would you recommend dipping it multiple times? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
