mark poulson Posted March 29, 2015 Report Share Posted March 29, 2015 (edited) I posted this in another thread, but I wanted it to be considered on it's own. Guys, I don't paint wire baits, except to powder coat my jigs in basic colors. But I do make and paint swimbaits and crankbaits, and I've tried just about every type of clear coat to protect my paint jobs. I've found something that is easy to use, goes over water based air brush paints with no problems, and holds up really well. I got some Wiggle Wart knockoff from Predator. and decided to add the same claw paint on the bills as the original. I dipped the painted baits in AC1315, a concrete sealer, and it has held up great to grinding across rocky banks. I'm sure, if I made and painted spinnerbaits, it would let me paint spinnerbaits with my airbrush and Createx paints, if I brushed it onto them, after they were heat set/dried. It is solvent based, so I do my lure dipping outside, but it flashes off really fast, is high in solids so it sets quickly, I use a hair dryer to help it set faster, and I can handle a lure an hour after it's dipped. Just an option to consider. I have no connection to these folks. Someone here at TU suggested trying it, and I've never looked back. http://www.directcolors.com/product/ac-1315-high-gloss-concrete-sealer/ Edited March 29, 2015 by mark poulson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toadfrog Posted March 29, 2015 Report Share Posted March 29, 2015 Mark ole buddy that is what I use on every thing that needs a clear coat . Wood metal bout darn near everything . Have not tried it on a car yet . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlaery Posted March 29, 2015 Report Share Posted March 29, 2015 what consistency is this, water or syrup or were in-between? You say you can handle it in an hour. what would you guess when jigs could be packaged? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smalljaw Posted March 30, 2015 Report Share Posted March 30, 2015 48 hours and you have to let it dry outside, for me it isn't an option, I stopped using vinyl paint as it gave me a headache even when outside as you are close to the work. As someone who has poured concrete for over 20 years and see all kinds of admixtures like super plasticizers and air entrainment, to micro silica and fly ash, I can tell you that the concrete sealer has a nasty odor, in fact I couldn't work with it because I have facial hair and I couldn't be fit tested for a respirator to use it. Our company used it to clear coat exposed aggregate sound wall barriers and even outside it required a respirator. I realize we're only using small amounts but that stuff has a smell just opening the can, It may work well but the small is something I don't care to deal with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlaery Posted March 30, 2015 Report Share Posted March 30, 2015 48 hours and you have to let it dry outside, for me it isn't an option, I stopped using vinyl paint as it gave me a headache even when outside as you are close to the work. As someone who has poured concrete for over 20 years and see all kinds of admixtures like super plasticizers and air entrainment, to micro silica and fly ash, I can tell you that the concrete sealer has a nasty odor, in fact I couldn't work with it because I have facial hair and I couldn't be fit tested for a respirator to use it. Our company used it to clear coat exposed aggregate sound wall barriers and even outside it required a respirator. I realize we're only using small amounts but that stuff has a smell just opening the can, It may work well but the small is something I don't care to deal with. Thanks for that info. that helps me make up my mind if I want to try it. Smell/fumes is number one for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cadman Posted March 30, 2015 Report Share Posted March 30, 2015 I posted this in another thread, but I wanted it to be considered on it's own. Guys, I don't paint wire baits, except to powder coat my jigs in basic colors. But I do make and paint swimbaits and crankbaits, and I've tried just about every type of clear coat to protect my paint jobs. I've found something that is easy to use, goes over water based air brush paints with no problems, and holds up really well. I got some Wiggle Wart knockoff from Predator. and decided to add the same claw paint on the bills as the original. I dipped the painted baits in AC1315, a concrete sealer, and it has held up great to grinding across rocky banks. I'm sure, if I made and painted spinnerbaits, it would let me paint spinnerbaits with my airbrush and Createx paints, if I brushed it onto them, after they were heat set/dried. It is solvent based, so I do my lure dipping outside, but it flashes off really fast, is high in solids so it sets quickly, I use a hair dryer to help it set faster, and I can handle a lure an hour after it's dipped. Just an option to consider. I have no connection to these folks. Someone here at TU suggested trying it, and I've never looked back. http://www.directcolors.com/product/ac-1315-high-gloss-concrete-sealer/ Mark, I read this yesterday and really thought of considering it. Then i thought about it and brought flashbacks of the CSI vinyl paint, where it smelled so bad and the smell lingered for two days in the house. Not to mention the headache I got. My other question is this. If I have to do this let's say in the garage, how do I keep all the dust and debris from sticking to the fininsh once I apply it??? Just curious. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted March 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2015 Ted, When I dip, it stops dripping in 30 seconds, and I can hit it with a hair dryer to speed up the cure as soon as it stops dripping. I dip outside, bring the lure into my open garage, with fan blowing from back to front, and hit it with the hair dryer on low, then back outside for an hour. I can handle it then. If I need to dip inside, I make sure the back door is open and the fan is blowing from behind me, so the fumes are pushed out. I do the same if I dip outside, but have to bring it inside to cure. The fumes are nasty, but they are short lived, and it skins over pretty quickly. When I got lazy and dipped inside without the fan going, I felt the fumes in my eyes when I came back into the house. A full face respirator would be a smart idea. I haven't had a lure collect dust, but I don't machine or sand around wet lures. They "set" so quickly it really hasn't been an issue for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Painter1 Posted April 2, 2015 Report Share Posted April 2, 2015 Xylene is a "hot" solvent. Bad stuff to breathe and fire hazard. That's not to say it can't be managed, just recognize it for what it is. Thanks for the report. It sounds like it is working well for you. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
