Jig Man Posted August 2, 2004 Report Share Posted August 2, 2004 I have been using a toaster oven which has one shelf close to the heating element. If I get jigs anywhere close to the element the paint scorches. Would it be worth while to bend the shelf and raise it above the element or should I keep heating 20 jigs at a time? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cavu Posted August 2, 2004 Report Share Posted August 2, 2004 Jig Man I arranged my rack so that the jigs will hang about center of the upper and lower elements. An important item to get is a cheap thermometer (WalMart) so that you have some idea of the temp. The thermometer I use registers from 150 degrees to 600. The oven I used came from WalMart and was about $30. It can be set for bake, broil or toast and will heat to 450 degees. I don't have a problem with scorching, but if I get a little too much powder on the jigs, they will form a "nose" or drip on the lower end. Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jig Man Posted August 2, 2004 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2004 That is the kind of thing I was contemplating. Except mine will have to be front to back instead of side to side on bending the grate. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LedHed Posted August 2, 2004 Report Share Posted August 2, 2004 Jig Man My set up is almost like cavu's ? the difference is the way my rack is set up. On the very back of the rack I cut the rack's end rail (that runs parallel to the back of the toaster) about a ? inch from the two side supporting rails. These cuts let me bend the rack in the middle to about a 60 degree angle (bent L shape). Now the rail that was at the back is angled up and I can hang my jigs on it. Took a Dremel and cut some grooves on the rail to minimize the jigs from moving around. I can do up to 14 jigs at a time ? lots more if I'm doing UL jigs. BTW ? picked up another toaster at a yard sale for $5 Saturday. Same model (newer) as my old one, so didn't have to make a new rack. Surprised you didn't get more runs/drips then scorching with your old set up. Way to close to your heat source. Cavu failed to mention that he has posted a very informative tutorial on powder painting that covers a lot of basics. Also, monitoring your temperature is critical, especially if you get into using different manufacture's paint (Color-Rite, Columbia Coatings, etc.). They aren't as easy as Pro Tec but the effects you can get are worth the effort. I use a thermocouple and a TC reader. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tally Posted August 3, 2004 Report Share Posted August 3, 2004 jig man- Everyone is going to tell you to keep the jigs away from the direct heat. There are many ways to do it. I do not have a picture with me, but I went to Walmart and bought a small enough bread pan (deep sides). I then cut some hangers and welded them on the top. I have 4 rows and can hang 10 jigs on each row without them touching for a total of 40 jigs. If you would like to see the rack, just say the word and I will take a picture of it. Tally Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
musky_man Posted August 3, 2004 Report Share Posted August 3, 2004 Jigman I use a paint stripping gun to heat the lead and then put the powder on with - believe it or not - a small woman's make-up brush. After heating the lead. I dip the brush in the PP and just tap it over the jig head. The paint falls off like ash from a cigarette and melts on the lead. I hold the jig over the paint container so that any that misses the jig is recylced. I have made hundreds in this fashion and it works well. Personally I do not bother with the curing heat because I coat my baits with epoxy, so it is not necessary. Hope that is some help. musky_man Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jig Man Posted August 3, 2004 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2004 Tally, Yes I would like to see a pic of your set up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tally Posted August 3, 2004 Report Share Posted August 3, 2004 Jig Man- Here is the picture. It is nothing special but it works good for me. I have very few if any of the "nose" or drips but I think that really comes with the amount of powder applied and the time that you heat up the jig. Practice and waisted jigs is the only way you will learn. There is no scorching here either. I hang the jigs by the hook and let them hang inside the pan. This way they are not very close to the top element and the pan keeps them away from the bottom element. It is very important that you PRE-HEAT the oven. I hope this helps and if you have any other questions, fire away. Tally Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jig Man Posted August 3, 2004 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2004 Tally, Does the pan set directly on the lower heating element?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tally Posted August 3, 2004 Report Share Posted August 3, 2004 Sorry about that, I should have taken a picture of it in the oven also. The toaster oven I have is a sunbeam, bake, broil and toast probably just like Cavu's. When the door is open it also pulls out the rack that sits over the bottom element. To answer your question: NO, sit it on the oven rack. I will take a picture when I get home and post it Wed. Tally Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jig Man Posted August 4, 2004 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2004 musky_man, Just how small is that brush? I got some out of my wife's make up kit and only got clumpy results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cavu Posted August 4, 2004 Report Share Posted August 4, 2004 Something interesting I found out while talking to a rep for Pro Tech Powder Paint. All of the paint is not the same. By that I mean some colors weighs more, flow better and dip better. If I remember right he asid that he worst was the white pearl, and that has proven out form me. I seem to have a more difficult time getting a thin coat that covers with that color. Some of the other colors shake out of my 35mm film canisters with the holes in the top better than others, resulting in a sometimes bumpy second color on a jig. Some colors liquify better in the fluid bed. Moisture also plays a big part in how the powder paint coats. Any other observations? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tally Posted August 4, 2004 Report Share Posted August 4, 2004 Cavu- You are right on. Some colors require more heat and some require less heat. I usually waste at least one jig until I figure out more or less heat, but I always have the same starting point as far as time in front of the heat source. Tally Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LedHed Posted August 4, 2004 Report Share Posted August 4, 2004 Cavu Had the same discussion with Pro Tech, when I was trying to trouble shoot my fluid bath that I had purchased from them. Haven't had much problem with pearl ? but I mix a fine holographic glitter (from Columbia Coatings) in it and that might be stabilizing the paint. If the saltwater swap happens you will see the results. Doing a "Sardinia" (red, white, and blue) and a Mexican Flag (red, white, and green) using the pearl for the white. My problem child is a red (Pro Tec) that I mixed with an awesome glittered red (candy apple red?) I got from Color Rite (this is before I got the holographic glitter). You get anywhere close to 325F and it wants to run and sag. Some things I try to remember; Don't commit anything to memory (mixing ratios, curing temperatures, etc); write it down (preferably in a dedicated notebook). Use a reliable temperature reference. Experimenting is fun. When you pooch the paint job on a jig, you have made a donation (I've made a lot of donations). Use cheap hooks when you are starting out ? no fun when you goof on an Owner or Gamakatsu. Jig Man Regular artist paint brush work well. The further you are away from the jig the finer the powder but you sacrifice control and you have a bigger mess to clean up. You still have to "fluff" your paint when you are using the paintbrush. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tally Posted August 4, 2004 Report Share Posted August 4, 2004 Jig Man- Here is pictures of the oven. Hope this helps you out. Tally Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LedHed Posted August 5, 2004 Report Share Posted August 5, 2004 Another toaster pic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JIGMAKER Posted August 5, 2004 Report Share Posted August 5, 2004 Did you make any modifications to the the rack in your oven, Sonny? It is hard to tell from the picture. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LedHed Posted August 5, 2004 Report Share Posted August 5, 2004 JIGMAKER Sorry the pic isn't clear, the one I wanted to post didn't come out at all. Made two cuts, one on each side, on the back of the rack separating it from the support sides so I could bend the rack in the middle and roll it up. I'll try another pic of just the rack tomorrow. Posted a pic in the Jig Gallery of the color combo I was telling you about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jig Man Posted August 6, 2004 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2004 I cut up the grate from my wife's broiler pan and put it on a Wal Mart baking pan. I painted and cured some heads this morning and they didn't scortch or drip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LedHed Posted August 6, 2004 Report Share Posted August 6, 2004 Jig Man Aha, success. Does the wife know about the grating yet?? Here's another attempt at posting pics. This is a side view of the rack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tally Posted August 6, 2004 Report Share Posted August 6, 2004 Jig Man- Looks good to me, especially if it works. Keep things simple and basic. How many jigs can you cure now? I guess this means TU members won't be getting invited for BROILED steak dinner. Tally Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mhurocy34 Posted February 6, 2005 Report Share Posted February 6, 2005 I've been using Spike-it brand powder paints, about had it with dipping in vinyl for the time being. It's messy, sticky, stringy, and I don't much care for the strange feelings of euphoria even with a mask after using it. As far as that goes, I'm going to acrylics eventually anyways. However, I am getting the hang of powder paints, I cure a few that come out bad, they tend to bulge at the bottom but I think that is because the coat is just a bit thick, but I am using the kitchen stove. Which is getting a lot of my lure making use, actually I use it more than my wife. Anyways, does anyone else use Spike-it or is everyone here a pro-tec fan? I'm quite happy with the results, from time to time, however, one lure that doesn't cure right is nasty to clean up. MEK doesn't even remove the stuff. Mik Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LedHed Posted February 6, 2005 Report Share Posted February 6, 2005 Mik It?s not a good idea to use your cooking stove for curing powder paint ? you should buy a cheap toaster oven. Think Columbia Coatings or Pro-Tec has a warning posted on their site about using kitchen stoves. If you are referring to Quick Coat by Colorite you are using some tough stuff to work with. The color combinations are great and that might be the problem because, of the formulation, the paint tends to clump. That?s when you get bulges, runs, and drips. If you are using standard colors, you might want to reduce your cure temp and increase the time. To apply your paint, you might want to use the makeup/paint brush or the film canister technique ? it gives you a thinner coat. Try mixing QC with PT clear coat ? don?t know why but it makes the QC easier to work with. Made up some jigs using QC/PT black diamond mix with an overcoat of CC illusions ? very nice effects. Columbia Coatings has a lot of good info about powder paint formulations and they have a large selection of paint. Pro Tec/Netcraft is probably the easiest (most $) to use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FishnDreams Posted March 25, 2005 Report Share Posted March 25, 2005 I have a pie oven and it holds 200 spinnerbaits on three shelfs. I need to know what temp do I set it to cure the jigs. I have just started making spinnerbaits, and I am not up to 200 at a time yet. I'll be curing around 50 at a time for now. Fish"n"Dreams Colin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheesehead Posted March 25, 2005 Report Share Posted March 25, 2005 Fishndreams read the label on you powder paint each color may have a different Cure Temp. Also if you have plastic weed guards you may have to cure the paint at a lower temp for a longer time. I use pro-tec paints and cure them for 15 - 20 minutes @ 325 degrees with good results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
