MarkNY Posted April 8, 2015 Report Share Posted April 8, 2015 What type of drill bit works good for drilling out belly weights? I thought about taking a look at tiny forstner bits. With my last lure i found it tricky to drill exactly where i wanted. I was drilling through two different materials which made it tough. Auto body filler sandwiched with poplar wood. Id appreciated any tips on this. Thanks, Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodieb8 Posted April 8, 2015 Report Share Posted April 8, 2015 forstner works good preset your drill press if your using one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted April 8, 2015 Report Share Posted April 8, 2015 I've found that starting the hole with the bit running in reverse works best for me. Especially in soft woods where tear out is a problem. I use forstner bits and run them in reverse until the leading edge of the bit is below the surface of the lure. After the hole is started I then switch the bit into forward and drill the hole to depth. Ben 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Musky Glenn Posted April 9, 2015 Report Share Posted April 9, 2015 There are other bits out there that have a sharp spur tip that cuts the outside edge of the hole before the bit starts to take material out of the center of the hole. They also need to have a center spur to keep them tracking on center. Stanley makes a good one, wish I could remember the name, Speed bore, maybe. Not the flat spade bits. Memory is going with age I guess. Musky Glenn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted April 9, 2015 Report Share Posted April 9, 2015 There are other bits out there that have a sharp spur tip that cuts the outside edge of the hole before the bit starts to take material out of the center of the hole. They also need to have a center spur to keep them tracking on center. Stanley makes a good one, wish I could remember the name, Speed bore, maybe. Not the flat spade bits. Memory is going with age I guess. Musky Glenn Are you talking about the brad point bits Glenn? Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted April 9, 2015 Report Share Posted April 9, 2015 It's going to be hard to drill a straight hole if your center filler material is harder than the wood on either side. I would try clamping the two wood sides together and drilling them before I made the sandwich. Just put something temporary in the hole to keep it clean when you do your final sandwiching. I use a wooden jaw Jorgensen clamp to hold baits when I have to drill an already shaped bait. http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/413640/Jorgensen-6-Adjustable-Handscrew-Model-30.aspx 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted April 9, 2015 Report Share Posted April 9, 2015 I cut the lip slot and drill all my holes from the block, before I even cut the profile. This way I can use standard drills and not worry about chipping. The drill press gives me holes as good as the angles of my block. If I want more accuracy, say for a through hole or for holes to intersect, I use a pin alignment method. In the days when I had to cut holes from a carved body; I used a series of drills, starting with 2mm dia, increasing until I get to my desired diameter. I run the drills in reverse and then forwards - no chips. Dave 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Musky Glenn Posted April 9, 2015 Report Share Posted April 9, 2015 Are you talking about the brad point bits Glenn? Ben Ben, It's not the brad point bits, but that would be a good choice. It is hard to tell what I have forgotten but I did remember it wasn't Stanley, it was made by Irwin and it is not the speed bore bit. I looked through their adds and it doesn't seem to be made any more. I'm also not sure that they even made them small enough for the applications we are talking about. If I was looking for a good bit that would leave a smooth edge it would be one of the brad point bits. Musky Glenn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkNY Posted April 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2015 Thanks for the tips guys. I'm working on a one piece bait that has a slot cut out for through wire. I glued in through wire with 5 min epoxy and then filled slot with auto filler, then put a sealer coat of etex on for water testing. So the center part of slot where filler is is softer than the wood. Makes it a little tricky to drill. Also ive noticed that after water testing in real cold water the filler seemed to shrink and it tore open my etex coat at the seam. Is auto filler commonly used on lures or am i choosing the wrong materials? Ill post a pic. thanks, mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted April 10, 2015 Report Share Posted April 10, 2015 That is a nice looking bait! If, by auto filler, you mean Bondo, then yes, I use it all the time. I wipe it with runny super glue after it's sanded to shape, to add some strength. I haven't experienced any shrinkage problems, but the coldest water I've fish is 50 degrees. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imagine_studios Posted April 10, 2015 Report Share Posted April 10, 2015 Can't wait to try running the drill backwards at first, never heard that before and it seems so obvious now! Jason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bass100 Posted April 10, 2015 Report Share Posted April 10, 2015 I only use forstner bits just don't buy the cheap ones. I have some cheap ones and they will turn a good day into a bad one real quick. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted April 11, 2015 Report Share Posted April 11, 2015 (edited) I only use forstner bits just don't buy the cheap ones. I have some cheap ones and they will turn a good day into a bad one real quick. X2 There are times when you can get away with cheap tools. This isn't one of them. Just my . Ben Edited April 11, 2015 by RayburnGuy 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hurley Posted April 16, 2015 Report Share Posted April 16, 2015 For me, drilling in balsa, reverse has been the best way. And I just drill it by hand. The problem with using a standard drill in wood is that drill have a positive rake that wants to grab. You can alter a drill bit by straitening out the cutting edge. Take a grinder, or even a dremmel, and grind the cutting edge so the rake is straight with the shank of the drill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrogAddict Posted April 23, 2015 Report Share Posted April 23, 2015 I too get some drift on my drill press when drilling my ballast hole. If I take my time and start with a smaller bit it works better. X2 on buying top quality Forster bits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
earthworm77 Posted May 31, 2015 Report Share Posted May 31, 2015 (edited) Brad point bits allow you to start a small precise hole in the center to line up your eye socket or ballast hole and then the outside edge follows it. Edited May 31, 2015 by earthworm77 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travis Posted May 31, 2015 Report Share Posted May 31, 2015 There is probably half dozen or more of threads dealing with this exact question. 1. Forstner bit, quality (not HF or the usual big box stores) 2. Keep them sharp so a set of files and diamond card potentially 3. Drill holes while blank is square or make jig to securely and consistently hold the blank 4. No need for reverse, standing on one foot, or holding your tongue a special way. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
