Vodkaman Posted March 13, 2016 Report Share Posted March 13, 2016 Yes, I was thinking that you could cast a plunger inside the tube and tap it out. A bit of sanding for a looser fit. The insert would prevent the burst pressure load on the plaster. The inserted piston would reduce the waste plastisol. I had success making my pistons from a hard resin with a silicon end piece. BUT, this was used in a soft silicon mold, no danger of squirting back. I was injecting resin and not hot plastic. I believe in the possibilities of this method, but once again, you are using different materials to me, and so you should have to expect to do some experimentation to find the combination that works. I believe the solution will be a hard piston in a soft mold, or soft piston in a hard mold. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRammit Posted March 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2016 Thats a good idea... What i have is a dowel rod sanded for a loose fit, then coated in epoxy to seal (plucking scrap plastic off bare wood is no fun!).... The big screw eye on the end isnt necessary, but i think it looks cooler that way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted March 13, 2016 Report Share Posted March 13, 2016 It is a good solution. Beware of any plastic squirting back. If it happens, I have a solution. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRammit Posted March 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2016 I remember your slotted injector, but ive been using the wooden dowell for 2 years now with no real issues... The only problem i have is if i over fill the tube, the plastic outside cools and binds up the plunger..... Other than that, it works like a charm 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cami Posted March 14, 2016 Report Share Posted March 14, 2016 Dave, Jrammit, if you wish to create a 2 piece multi cavity reinforced silicone mold, well here you are the link http://www.bassmaster.it/a_stampoMulti.htm of a tutorial by an Italian guy (I am not the Author) of my Forum. Even if it is written in Italian language I think that the pictures are enough clear to understand all steps, anyway if you need a translation, then please let feel free to ask. About 5° pict., it is only to verify the position of all parts, but hard resin masters have been positioned after the 1st poured silicone side (after 2 hours - pict. 7°). The 2nd wooden tablet has been positioned 1 hour after the 2nd poured silicone side. The most important thing is that between the external box and the tablet there is a clearance of 1 cm. Bye. Cami Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRammit Posted March 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2016 Dave, Jrammit, if you wish to create a 2 piece multi cavity reinforced silicone mold, well here you are the link http://www.bassmaster.it/a_stampoMulti.htm of a tutorial by an Italian guy (I am not the Author) of my Forum. Even if it is written in Italian language I think that the pictures are enough clear to understand all steps, anyway if you need a translation, then please let feel free to ask. About 5° pict., it is only to verify the position of all parts, but hard resin masters have been positioned after the 1st poured silicone side (after 2 hours - pict. 7°). The 2nd wooden tablet has been positioned 1 hour after the 2nd poured silicone side. The most important thing is that between the external box and the tablet there is a clearance of 1 cm. Bye. Cami Good idea pouring around the backing... Makes for a nice, tidy brace My only issue is RTV silicone weighing in at $30 a pound, while i can pick up an 8 lb can of plaster for $8 Ive made alot of molds, but i wont pretend that i dont still screw one up occasionally... A failed silicone mold of that size would be an expensive mistake! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
