fishnart Posted April 13, 2015 Report Share Posted April 13, 2015 I have found that doing rattle trap type baits that they seem harder to epoxy. It seems I get more bubble in those type baits and unless you put it on pretty thick, it cures thin around the sharper edges of the top of the bait. Is this me or has anyone else noticed that? Just curious. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Venutian_Lures Posted April 13, 2015 Report Share Posted April 13, 2015 I have Predator's Megabass Vibration KO lipless. I use BSI 20 minute cure and have to apply a thicker coat to those blanks than any others because the scale pattern is deeper on that blank than any other. I apply small amounts at a time and focus on working the epoxy into the grooves and along the edges and it has solved all my problems there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted April 13, 2015 Report Share Posted April 13, 2015 I thought this was common knowledge and had been mentioned every time epoxy was discussed. But, I just did a quick search for 'epoxy thinning edges' and the last entry was 2012. I then changed my search to 'epoxy edges' - that worked. DAve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted April 13, 2015 Report Share Posted April 13, 2015 I wouldn't use an epoxy on a rattle bait. I would be afraid that the thick coating would dampen both the rattle and the action. I'd use a urethane, or a concrete sealer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishnart Posted April 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2015 I didn't realize it was a common issue, so I really didn't think to do a search on it. OK, that's all I wanted to know, I was just curious, thanks a ton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted April 14, 2015 Report Share Posted April 14, 2015 Epoxy will pull away from sharp corners and leave a very thin coating that is very susceptible to cracking and pulling away from the bait. Not sure if this is true of Etex, but for D2T, Bob Smith, etc. it is. Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted April 14, 2015 Report Share Posted April 14, 2015 Fishnart - I totally understand. It was a good point to bring up. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRammit Posted April 14, 2015 Report Share Posted April 14, 2015 Save name="fishnart" post="236453" timestamp="1428982519"] I didn't realize it was a common issue, so I really didn't think to do a search on it. OK, that's all I wanted to know, I was just curious, thanks a ton Me either... I dont think anyone would until they actually experienced the problem... So thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Venutian_Lures Posted April 14, 2015 Report Share Posted April 14, 2015 I have had no problems with my BSI dampening the sound or action of any lipless rattle trap type bait. It also hasn't cracked or done anything like that around the edges. Maybe I'm just lucky but these things have not happened to me using BSI epoxy on a rattle trap bait. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bass100 Posted April 14, 2015 Report Share Posted April 14, 2015 Save name="fishnart" post="236453" timestamp="1428982519"] I didn't realize it was a common issue, so I really didn't think to do a search on it. OK, that's all I wanted to know, I was just curious, thanks a ton Me either... I dont think anyone would until they actually experienced the problem... So thanks! That is the wonder of this site. You get to research what you are about to do and know almost all of the problems before you ever start. In other words this site allows you to figure out the problems before you ever actually have to have them. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodieb8 Posted April 14, 2015 Report Share Posted April 14, 2015 etex hates sharp edges and corners also guys.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seeking 56 Posted April 14, 2015 Report Share Posted April 14, 2015 I'm thinking, rounding off the edges of that rattletrap would solve your problems. For me, that's what I would do and I would also hang the lure instead of putting on a lure turner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Prager Posted April 17, 2015 Report Share Posted April 17, 2015 I use BSI 30 Minute Slow Cure Epoxy... I never measure but do a 5 count of each part into a plastic medicinal cup. Mix the crap out of it with a drill and piece of spinnerbait wire bent at 90 degrees. Then I dip the brush in DA and any bubbles will disperse. That is more than enough for 2 baits which is all i have time to do if I take my time. I will do the lipless as my 2nd of the two baits if possible. As the DA evaporates and the epoxy THICKENS, it does not "pull" away from the edges. I find the key to brushing epoxy on is to have enough on the brush, so it will "flow" as you brush it as opposed to the epoxy being "pulled" with the brush. A little more info here than needed to answer the question, but this is my process and works very well for me. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishnart Posted April 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2015 That's interesting Richard, do you dip your brush in the alcohol each time you load your brush. No wait, you mean the first time to get rid of bubbles after you've mixed it?? I use a heat gun, but sometimes I still get bubbles. I wonder if your way's better??? Always looking to improve where I can Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted April 18, 2015 Report Share Posted April 18, 2015 (edited) I usually dip my 1/4" brush in denatured alcohol (DA) after mixing enough epoxy for 2-3 baits, drip it (a few drops) into the epoxy, and then mix it in. It really helps removing bubbles. You can control the viscosity of epoxy while working in cool temperatures with DA and it does not affect how well the epoxy will harden, nor does it greatly extend the cure time, plus it gives you an extra minute or two of brush time. DA is the only additive I use with epoxy. When I use epoxy to undercoat a wood crankbait, I use a little more DA to thin the mix down and get a coating that is thinner and penetrates the wood a little better. I don't use a heat gun on epoxy - it just makes it begin to harden too quickly. Edited April 18, 2015 by BobP 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Prager Posted April 18, 2015 Report Share Posted April 18, 2015 I dip my brush in the DA after the epoxy is mixed and before each of the 2 baits i do at a time. I use fresh DA each batch. I pour a little in a small glass cup similar to a shot glass. I started having trouble after a few months dipping it right into the container. I guess the epoxy ended up in the DA and started getting little chunks. For years i would never thin it, but it definitely does not impede the integrity of the epoxy. Humidity does play a big part and have been clear coating indoors. BSI is odorless which I need to you because of Emphysema. After an hour, I put a couple of the indoor 65W floodlights in front of the turner. it drops the humidity from about 60% to about 40 and raises the temp from 75 to about 85 degrees. I started with the lights when I was clear coating in the garage and just continued when i brought it indoors. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishnart Posted April 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2015 Thanks for this info 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
