Clear Coat For Plastic Cranks?

[Beardyj]

Hey everyone new to painting baits and I have been painting for a while just not happy with my top coat I have been using a epoxy and it does do the job but it's too thick for my liking anyone have any other ideas that are a bit thinner but still durable? Maybe something I can spray from a airbrush?

[Tim2199]

Lots of discussions that you can tap into by using the site search engine. Not sure about the airbrush application, but you can search: MCU (moisture cure urethane), automotive urethane/clearcoat, solarez, alumi-uv, and specific concrete sealers. To my knowledge all of which are thinner and lighter than epoxy. Do a little sniffing around with those topics and you'll be able to educate your self on the pros and cons of each. You'll be the best judge of which approach you would like to take with regards to your bait design and clearcoat application. I think you'll find most members suggesting the same as my post, theres just so much information contributed already. Then if you have specific questions that your research didn't answer, then the crowd will be able to give you some feedback.

[mohawkman]

You can spray GST International concrete sealer but you'll waste a lot. Dipping is a much better idea.

[Vodkaman]

When I get back to lure building, I will be trying the concrete sealer. I doubt I will find the same brands as you guys, but concrete gets sealed over here too. It has received good write-ups here on TU, it fits your specification in that it is thinner than epoxy.

 

You should forget about spraying, as anything that thin will need about ten coats to be affective. That means cleaning out your airbrush ten times when you could have done two or three dips and been done.

 

Dave

[Beardyj]

Thank you for the help!.

[barrybait]

I haven't tried it yet but was more worried about my gun spraying the concrete sealer AC1315.  I was wondering if I sprayed a super thin coat it would not get a chance to wrinkle the paint due less time in contact with wet sealer.  Then I could dip it one or more times to get a more durable protective coat.  I still struggle with Createx paint wrinkling expecially if heavier applications of paint which are sometimes necessary.  Yes I am heat drying each coat, i have waited a day or two in warm dry climate.  Still can experience wrinkling.

 

I know it's fumy too and will have to take serious precautions to protect my self too is why I haven't tried it.

[llokkii]

I still experience some issues with the paint wrinkling, even with taking the same precautions as it sounds you do.  I'm going to be trying to thin my createx paints with pledge with Future to see if that doesn't put a stop to the wrinkling.  Either that or dip the baits in Future and let it fully cure before I apply GST.  Do yourself a favor and apply the GST outside.

[mark poulson]

Barrybait,

If I were you I'd find a way to avoid spraying AC1315.  That solvent is nasty, and spraying it atomizes it, which makes it even worse.

This is from the AC1315 thread:

bass01, on 29 Apr 2015 - 06:36 AM, said:

I haven't had that problem yet but I dip the bait in Future/Pledge and let dry an hour or two before I use AC1315

 

Maybe shooting a coat of gloss Createx before dipping would make the film strength stronger, so it won't wrinkle.

I'll try the next time I paint a bait.

Thanks for the idea!

[BobP]

Topcoats have been the #1 topic on TU for years.  For a thin very durable topcoat, there is simply nothing more durable and glossy than moisture cured urethane for plastic baits.  If you choose to go that way, you definitely should read up on application and storage issue with MCU.  There are various MCU's and I've tried most of them.  To me, the best by far is Dick Nite MCU, (S81), which you can buy direct with a TU discount here:  http://www.dicknite.com/TU_Lander.htm

 

Best practice with MCU is to use the "tap the can" method of storage and a quick brush-on, followed by hanging the lure to drip off excess and dry.