AKFerzy7 Posted June 5, 2015 Report Share Posted June 5, 2015 hey guys, I have modified molds to accept larger hooks and added vents before, but was wanting to go a little more off the deep end on this one. I was wondering if there was anyway of adding this keeper https://store.do-itmolds.com/mobile/Bulletnose-Jig_c_376.html To this mold? https://store.do-itmolds.com/mobile/Shad-Head-Rig-JigbrSz-18-316-14-516-38-716brHk-32886brCollar-Wire-Holder_p_1096.html Im leaning toward cutting the shad head mold with a dremel just below the bottom of the head cavity and drilling out the rest, then pouring dummy bulletnose heads without hooks and cutting off the top of the head and pressing the shaft and barbs into something like high heat rtv thats filled the hole I make. Once hardened, filing and sanding the excess rtv then cutting a channel for the hook shaft. Would this be in the right direction or a waste of time and a mold? Thanks for any and all responses in advance, you guys rock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted June 5, 2015 Report Share Posted June 5, 2015 I've modified some Do-It molds to take bigger hooks. I don't have a steady hand, so, when I needed to enlarge the part for the hook's line tie, I used my drill press, locking the bit at the depth I wanted, and then moving the mold slowly so the drill press removed material like a mill. If you have enough meat in your mold, I'm sure you could do something similar. It just takes patience, and going slow, so the bit doesn't grab and take more material than you want to remove. If it does, there's always JB Weld for repairs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LimpNoodle Posted June 5, 2015 Report Share Posted June 5, 2015 I have to ask why? That L keeper on the Shad Rig Jig works pretty good. What you're describing is a TON of work and will most likely end up with a FUBAR mold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKFerzy7 Posted June 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2015 I have to ask why? That L keeper on the Shad Rig Jig works pretty good. What you're describing is a TON of work and will most likely end up with a FUBAR mold. Because fisherman around here are old, cranky and reluctant to try anything new. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlaery Posted June 6, 2015 Report Share Posted June 6, 2015 You did say............ Thanks for any and all responses in advance, you guys rock. I have to ask why? That L keeper on the Shad Rig Jig works pretty good. What you're describing is a TON of work and will most likely end up with a FUBAR mold. I don't disagree with LimpNoodle, but to answer your question I guess it depends if your looking for the journey or the destination. Your method sounds like something I would have tried. The only thing different I would try to do what they are talking about in the post titled http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/30002-need-a-bullet-mold-weedless/ milling out the channel with a drill press and setting up a fence as Bob La Londe suggested, I don't know if that would work or not. Its going to depend on the skill you have. then hand filing the barbs. I have done a lot of these and you have to take your time to get it right. I do one side at a time. You won't be able to sand RTV . I think JBWeld or Bondo might work. I have had a lot better results with JB Weld . I have no idea what "FUBAR mold" is and maybe afraid to ask. I might have some of them but there not Do-It molds. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kasilofchrisn Posted June 6, 2015 Report Share Posted June 6, 2015 I have no idea what "FUBAR mold" is and maybe afraid to ask. I might have some of them but there not Do-It molds. FUBAR: "Fouled(or the other "F" word) up beyond any recognition" Basically means you destroyed the mold and it is no longer useful for any real purpose. Could be any brand mold that you have ruined by unsuccessfully attempting modification of said mold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gone2long Posted June 6, 2015 Report Share Posted June 6, 2015 I think it would be easier if you tried to insert a 2nd wire keeper in that mold, it would be quite similar without all that machining, a wire keeper is hands down better than any lead keeper out there IMHO. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kasilofchrisn Posted June 7, 2015 Report Share Posted June 7, 2015 I think it would be easier if you tried to insert a 2nd wire keeper in that mold, it would be quite similar without all that machining, a wire keeper is hands down better than any lead keeper out there IMHO. Good Advice I certainly agree! I like the wire keepers way better than the lead barbs. They are smaller so tear the baits less and hold much better. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jigginpig Posted June 8, 2015 Report Share Posted June 8, 2015 AK, I am just curious... have you tried the style keeper that is on the shad head jig? It is BY FAR my favorite style keeper. Easiest for me to rig, and holds best too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HookUp Posted August 27, 2015 Report Share Posted August 27, 2015 Go for it. If you cut to much, JB Weld. I've modified most of my molds. Make small cuts w/ a dremel, pour, see what you need to do. JB Weld fixes to big of cuts. Get a carbite bit in various sizes. I only use the smalles size I can find. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
