Space Saving Tools

[JRammit]

I dont like my jig saw anyway... Its so crooked, if i mounted to the bench it would probably cut a hole in the wall

[Vodkaman]

Bob - I am in the market for a table saw and was thinking along those lines. There are some superb build videos for table saws, but I doubt they are going to work with JR's project

Dave

[benton B]

I'm with Bob on this one, I have two power tools (scroll saw and drill press) that I use.   The rest of my work is done with a carving knife, finger drills, and sand paper.    I only work with balsa wood and the power sanders were just too powerful for my taste.  

[Matt M]

I use a scroll saw and a sander. But I carve Cypress it is a little bit harder than Balsa.

[JRammit]

Hand carving balsa baits is truely a form of art... One in which a steady hand and keen eye are the most valuable tools

But im far from an artist... More of a designer

There are ALOT of things im anxious to build just to see if they work... If they do, id like the ability to duplicate them as accurately as possible... If they dont, then the less time i invest, the better

Ive been capable without the tools.. But cant wait to see my capabilities with them!

Edited August 2, 2015 by JRammit

[nugene]

Everything looks good Rammit.....let u know how it works and show results.........good job nugene

[JRammit]

Thanks nugene!... I decided on the drill press first... But it wont be purchaced right away, u know, bills and what not

[JRammit]

Well since the drill press can double as a sander (like Travis said), i can afford the space for a full sized bench top model....... Plus the mini press would limit the length of bait to drill through (like clemmy said)

So i got my eye on this now

http://m.homedepot.com/p/Skil-10-in-Drill-Press-with-Laser-3320-01/204504289?cm_mmc=Shopping%7cG%7cBase%7cPLA%7cD25T%7cPowerTools&gclid=CjwKEAjwovytBRCdxtyKqfL5nUISJACaugG1VP8GV_WhFVqE8fLT3-o4Hk_8VDOaMOGBXPzMLPVMlhoCCcjw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

But i like the craigslist idea too!... Ill look into that (like Bob said)

[mark poulson]

I was a working carpenter, cabinet maker, and general contractor for almost 50 years, so I have a garage full of wood working tools

But the power tool I use most for shaping is this oscillating belt sander:

http://m.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-Oscillating-Edge-Belt-Spindle-Sander-EB4424/100061671/

Remarkably, even though I bought mine fifteen years ago, the price is still the same, and the machine just keeps on keeping on!

[Travis]

I was a working carpenter, cabinet maker, and general contractor for almost 50 years, so I have a garage full of wood working tools

But the power tool I use most for shaping is this oscillating belt sander:

http://m.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-Oscillating-Edge-Belt-Spindle-Sander-EB4424/100061671/

Remarkably, even though I bought mine fifteen years ago, the price is still the same, and the machine just keeps on keeping on!

 

I use mine a lot also and still comes in as the best buy and best tool every other year when they do they oscillating spindle sander shoot outs.  I don't use it too much for cranks when shaping is concerned but have used it a few times on larger swim baits.

 

I am not for sure what tool I would choose if I had to just pick one.  Quality tools (hand or power) make a huge difference in enjoyment and time spent being productive in the shop.  

Edited August 3, 2015 by Travis

[JRammit]

I think i know the answer to this question... But ill ask anyway...

Has anyone tried the rotary cutting bits for cutting out blanks??

Ive never done carpentry for a living, but i did install home theater systems for a while several years ago... My company bought us a roto-zip for cutting speaker holes.... It was just next to worthless, hardly any control over where the bit wanted to go... Too many round speakers in oval holes, so we went back to the jig saw

But i wonder if it would be of any use on a stationary tool.. Like say.. A drill press??..... I would figure it to be more of a hazard than anything.. But if it worked.. I would have 3 tools in 1

[Vodkaman]

I like my 4" belt sander with the spinning side disk. I fit it with a heavy grit so it does rip through material. I use a flapwheel in the drill press for the finer work and finishing.

I never thought of using an oscillating sander, interesting idea.

Dave

[JRammit]

Dave, i liked the way you did the bawal crank in your video... Your cut out lines were larger than the body itself... So that the sander does the detailed work

Thats why i mention the rotary cutter... Wouldnt have to be an exact cut if i let the sander pick up the slack

[Travis]

I am sure with a enough time you could get a rough blank knocked out with a chain saw.  The rotary cutter is a bad idea along with most anything else that isn't intended to cut wood. Yes you can make it work but why when there are far superior tools designed to do what you need to do.  It does not take too long for most that do any sort of woodworking on a consistent basis to come to the conclusion proper tools and set up (doesn't  have to be expensive) has significant impact on overall time it takes do to a task and often makes results better as less error when something can be done effortlessly.   A coping saw and decent blades is a far better choice to cut out a blank. A run of the mill ryoba will make short work of ripping and crosscutting any wood to blanks or PVC for that matter. 

Edited August 4, 2015 by Travis

[mark poulson]

The key to making any tool perform is sharp cutters!

[JRammit]

Not worth risking my fingers, i need those for lots of things!

Just wondered if anyone had tried it.. Plenty of reasons not to!

So... Drill press #1... Scroll saw #2

Btw, that dremel scroll saw comes apart and doubles as a coping saw

[Vodkaman]

Apart from drilling machines, I do not like rotary cutters. If I can find another way to do the job, a rotary blade is my last choice.

For some jobs it is the only efficient choice; like cutting 18mm ply or ripping down 4m long stock meranti.

Routers and circular cutter blades are 'break glass in case of emergency' tools.

Dave

[Travis]

I would skip the scroll saw completely and get a small band saw if power tools are the way you are going.  The foot print is smaller and cuts much faster and opens up a lot more options of use than a scroll saw.  My scroll saw gets used some but mainly is a rust collector.  The band saw with proper set up and blade selection will be able to easily cut out cranks, make lip slots, re saw and break down wood, and cut lips effortlessly.  You also have a tool that can do other things outside of lure making.     

 

If space is the limiting factor I would redesign your work bench area and make so you can slide in a flip top cart and have the drill press on one side and the band saw on the other.You can size the cart appropriately to fit the tools and never mess with lifting or moving them.  A small band saw no big deal to move typically but the drill press will end up staying in place.  Craigslist can have some good deals, as mentioned, and will let you spend the same money on higher quality machinery if you go used or old. I have a 14" inch band saw that gets most of the work but kept a low budget Delta just for cutting out blanks. The scrap wood on the band saw was left over from cutting out 6 blanks that were then taken to the drill press.  Probably 10 minutes from start to finish to have 6 blanks, hook and lip tie drilled, lip slot cut, ballast hole drilled, and ready to shape with the knife. 

 

 

]

Edited August 4, 2015 by Travis

[JRammit]

That's the little five speed. Seems like everybody sells one. They run from 69.95 (less on sale) at Harbor Freight to $129.95 it seems, and except for the color and the boxes they could all be the same. Go down to home depot and look at their shelf demo. Then extend the quill. You will see it has very short throw. You will also see there is no slot in the quill to knock out the taper limiting you to ONLY what you can put in the drill chuck.

In the specs, the Skill says to have a 10" spindle travel.... Does this mean with a 5" bit i could drill a 5" hole?

[Vodkaman]

Travis - very nice shop and always top advice.

DAve

[mark poulson]

I think the 10" spindle is the amount of travel (up and down).  Typically, the chuck size is what determines the size of bit you can use, and most bits larger than 3/4" have a shank that's machined down to either 3/4" or 1/2" so they can be chucked in a standard drill press.

The most practical way to drill larger holes, like a 5" diameter, is with a hole saw, so the shank is still only 12".

Edited August 5, 2015 by mark poulson

[bass100]

Most of my tools are bench top for space issues but I am a firm believer in having the right tool for each task as this makes things quicker, more efficient, and safer.  The standard tools that I use on a regular basis are: table saw, compound miter saw, planer, drill press, band saw, router, and a belt/disc bench mount sander.  I also have several tools that I made to do specific things for me.  The last couple of years I have had a small space to do my hobby in and I take most of the dust making tools outside to do my work.  I do have a large delta air filtration system but it still doesn't remove the dust and I have to have a very clean shop.

[JRammit]

I think the 10" spindle is the amount of travel (up and down). Typically, the chuck size is what determines the size of bit you can use, and most bits larger than 3/4" have a shank that's machined down to either 3/4" or 1/2" so they can be chucked in a standard drill press.

The most practical way to drill larger holes, like a 5" diameter, is with a hole saw, so the shank is still only 12".

I meant hole depth, not diameter

The main need for a drill press is my inline crank bait... The through hole has to be centered perfectly in order for the bait to perform correctly

I mentioned above how i do it now, it works, but a drill press would save me ALOT of time!

Just looking for my limitation on lure length with spindle travel

[mark poulson]

The distance between the bottom of the check jaws, when it's in the up position, and the work table will give you the max. you have for lure drilling.

That is the critical dimension.

More is better.  

You subtract the height of the lure, and however much the chucked up drill bit hangs down, and you'll be able to tell if the machine will for for you.

You can always raise the height of the work table with space blocks to accommodate different height work pieces and drill bit lengths, but you're stuck with the fixed distance between the jaws and the table on a benchtop model.

 

I have a Packard Chinese floor model drill press, with a movable table, so I can adjust the height as needed for almost any height work piece.  The travel of the spindle, the actual amount it moves up and down, is only 3 1/2".  

But I leave the table down about 10", and use different height wood blocks to raise my work pieces as need so the bits can reach the proper depth. 

If I need to drill deeper, I drill my initial hole, install a longer bit, and raise the work piece up until the new bit is inside the hole, almost to the bottom of the hole, and I can then drill another 3 1/2"+- if I need to.

I used to have a bench top model that I took to job sites if we needed to do a lot of drilling onsite and that is a good trick for deeper holes with a benchtop dril press.  I have even put the longer bit into the hole in the work piece and then chucked the bit up, when I didn't have enough room to fit the work piece under the longer bit.

[Travis]

Go look at one.  I'll bet you money it doesn't have anywhere near 10" spindle travel on that little 5 speed drill press.  More like 2 or 3.  Maaaaybe there is 10" of table travel.  

 

2 3/8