Question On Concrete Sealer

[jkwildhunting]

Long time reader, but first time posting.

I am pretty new to tackle crafting and guess I have mixed feelings over devcon so looking for other options . I don't mind it but have had uneven amounts and when it dries it is tacky. I bought some Bob Smith epoxy at hobby lobby so I'll try that also.

I was at fleet n farm yesterday saw some concrete sealer on sale. I can not get gst sealer local so was looking for feed back on drylok wetlook concrete sealer.

Will I be OK or should I stick with 2part epoxy mainly doing jigs ,spinner blades and crankbaits.

Also looked into dicknite so my options are....(I'm also try in get some uv powder to add to epoxy if that helps)

Dicknite

Wetlok concrete sealer

BSI epoxy

Devcon

Thanks

Joe

[RayburnGuy]

I use both BS 30 minute epoxy and DN S81 moisture cure depending on the lure that's being coated. On smaller baits that are more susceptible to ballasting issues I use DN because it goes on thinner and won't add as much additional weight as a thick coat of epoxy. On more buoyant baits epoxy gets the call. These baits are used for LMB so if your fishing for something more "toothy" you'd need to factor that into your choice of top coats.

 

The problems people have with epoxies are most often caused by operator error. Either improper mixing or unequal amounts are the usual culprits. Epoxy is measured by volume and must be thoroughly mixed or you will have the problems your describing. If your using a few drops of denatured alcohol to thin your mix you need to first mix the epoxy and then add the alcohol and mix again. If you add the alcohol before mixing the epoxy the alcohol will bind with one part of the epoxy (don't remember which one) and will not allow a proper blending of the two components.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Ben

[BobP]

Can't comment on your sealer except to say you want one with a high solids content.  GST and AC1315 seem to be the popular brands.  Both are solvent based and have high (30%?) solids content.  You can buy AC1315 online from Direct Colors.

 

About epoxies:  if your Devcon didn't harden to a smooth hard finish, you either failed to measure it properly or failed to mix it thoroughly.  Most often, it's a mixing problem.  Buying another brand won't help unless you do both things right.

 

Of the topcoats you mention, I think Dick Nite S81 moisture cured urethane is superior if you are using it on spinner blades or jig heads.  I find epoxy too thick and heavy for blades and it will quickly chip on blades because it draws away from any sharp edge as it cures.  Dick Nite forms a thin, tough, non-yellowing topcoat which is perfect for spoons and blades. Dick Nite manufactures spoons and uses it.  He sells to TU members at a discount at this link:  http://www.dicknite.com/TU_Lander.htm

If you decide on Dick Nite, do yourself a favor and read up on TU posts concerning MCU, particularly "tap the can method of storage".

[jkwildhunting]

Thanks for the response!

I had seen the tu pricing for dicknite and was going to order last week but thought of the concrete sealer instead. Looks like I will go with dicknite just need to finish the research in how to apply, if I can use the drying wheel I got, if brushing vs dipping is better.

Thanks

Joe

[BobP]

Joe, depending on how fast you use up the DN, most guys now go with the "tap the can" method of dispensing it and storing it.  That's the only way to avoid having it harden in the container over several months.  If you use this method, you dispense only what you need for a task.  For most guys, that means brushing the DN on instead of dipping.  You can't put it back in the can after dipping lures in it, so dipping wastes lots of expensive topcoat - but it's player's choice.  After application of the DN, you want to hang the object up to drip off any excess finish.  That avoids having the DN wrinkle paint.  Do not use a lure turner as it will prevent excess from dripping off the lure and will often cause the DN to pool somewhere on the lure and cause the paint to wrinkle!  Brush it on fast and heavy, then just hang it up.  Ready to fish in about 36-48 hours.  The solvent evaporates pretty fast off the DN but then the moisture cure process starts, which takes several days to complete itself.  Before then, it is dry and slick but it still pretty fragile.