ACarrell Posted September 9, 2015 Report Share Posted September 9, 2015 I found this in my friends yard. I think it's part of a chair back. 17.5" long, 0.5" wide, 1.25" tall. I see a jerk/glide bait and maybe a swim bait in my near future. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ACarrell Posted September 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2015 Cut part of it into a basic shape, and drilled for the eyes. I haven't decided whether to make a glide bait or a swim bait with this one yet. I'm open to thoughts. Anyway, I'm planning weighting at the bottom pretty evenly, and dealing with 50/50 spar varnish and mineral spirits. I read about this as a dealer and figured I'd try it. I'm also deciding on whether to use two treble hooks or three, and obviously this will affect how much weight I put into this. And finally, debating trying my hand at carving. Hmmmm..... Any thoughts are welcome, as I'm brand new to this and haven't attempted a lure like this before. Thanks ! I meant "Sealing".... My phone autocorrects to "dealing". Ugh. Sorry. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRammit Posted September 9, 2015 Report Share Posted September 9, 2015 (edited) First things first... Get it sealed Then you can play around with weights and hardware til you get it to float (or sink) the way you want Thinned super glue is a good rapid sealer.. It penetrates so it can be sanded before painting I would also suggest making a "twin" to do all your experimenting on.. Then theres no worry over mistakes.. And once you get it right, you can skip those mistakes on the real one Edited September 9, 2015 by JRammit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ACarrell Posted September 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2015 First things first... Get it sealed Then you can play around with weights and hardware til you get it to float (or sink) the way you want Thinned super glue is a good rapid sealer.. It penetrates so it can be sanded before painting I would also suggest making a "twin" to do all your experimenting on.. Then theres no worry over mistakes.. And once you get it right, you can skip those mistakes on the real one Hmmm ... I was thinking that it would have to be sealed after the weight cavities were drilled, so those would be protected from moisture.... Or am I gonna need to seal it twice ... Once before experimenting with ballast, and once when the cavities are drilled ? And great idea on the twin ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bbob Posted September 9, 2015 Report Share Posted September 9, 2015 I have always put the weights in then sealed. Also write every thing down like the source of the weights because the weight can change due to brands. Then if it works you can look back and see exactly what you did Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRammit Posted September 9, 2015 Report Share Posted September 9, 2015 On my prototypes i use scotch tape to hold different weights in different positions til i find the right combination Then i make and seal the cavity for the final (hopefully final) test... But i do install the hook hangers before sealing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ACarrell Posted September 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2015 Good info, thanks guys !!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bbob Posted September 9, 2015 Report Share Posted September 9, 2015 That wood has potential thanks to you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted September 9, 2015 Report Share Posted September 9, 2015 Sealing before or after drilling ballast holes isn't that big of an issue. The area inside the hole will be sealed once the ballast is glued in. One thing I've found helpful when using softer types of wood is to give it a coat of super glue before drilling ballast holes. The super glue will penetrate the wood a bit and stiffen the exterior surface to help prevent tear out in softer woods. Ben 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ACarrell Posted September 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2015 I That wood has potential thanks to you! I like repurposing things, so it was an easy choice ! I also found 3 more of these chair back staves... Though one looks to be too bent to use. The other two look good though . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW Lures Posted September 9, 2015 Report Share Posted September 9, 2015 JR my kindle and I are not getting along tonight so I can't quote you. The thinning of super glue interest me. Is acetone the thinning agent? If so what is the working time of it? Thanks Dale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ACarrell Posted September 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2015 Sealing before or after drilling ballast holes isn't that big of an issue. The area inside the hole will be sealed once the ballast is glued in. One thing I've found helpful when using softer types of wood is to give it a coat of super glue before drilling ballast holes. The super glue will penetrate the wood a bit and stiffen the exterior surface to help prevent tear out in softer woods. Ben[/quote Ah, ok ... I just thought it was important to not have the wood come in contact with water at any time ... Though with my normal woodworking I'll do things like raising grain with water .... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRammit Posted September 9, 2015 Report Share Posted September 9, 2015 JR my kindle and I are not getting along tonight so I can't quote you. The thinning of super glue interest me. Is acetone the thinning agent? If so what is the working time of it? Thanks Dale Man, i just started using the superglue a few months ago.. Im not brave enough to try it on a finished lure yet..... But for my prototypes, i squeeze a puddle of gorrilla glue in the cut off base of a beer can and mix in a couple drops of paint thinner (Mineral spirits) and brush on with a disposable brush Working time is plenty, a big enough puddle won't dry for hours, but once you brush a thin coat on the lure it dries in minutes I can think up a new idea in the middle of a 12 hour work day.. Come home, cut, carve, seal, float and test swim before i go to bed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted September 9, 2015 Report Share Posted September 9, 2015 Sealing before or after drilling ballast holes isn't that big of an issue. The area inside the hole will be sealed once the ballast is glued in. One thing I've found helpful when using softer types of wood is to give it a coat of super glue before drilling ballast holes. The super glue will penetrate the wood a bit and stiffen the exterior surface to help prevent tear out in softer woods. Ben[/quote Ah, ok ... I just thought it was important to not have the wood come in contact with water at any time ... Though with my normal woodworking I'll do things like raising grain with water .... It is important that the wood isn't exposed to water. It needs to be sealed before any float testing is done. What I don't see as a big issue is whether or not the wood is sealed before drilling holes for hardware other than the reason I explained concerning tear out in soft woods. Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ACarrell Posted September 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2015 It is important that the wood isn't exposed to water. It needs to be sealed before any float testing is done. What I don't see as a big issue is whether or not the wood is sealed before drilling holes for hardware other than the reason I explained concerning tear out in soft woods. Ben Ah, ok ... Thanks ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted September 10, 2015 Report Share Posted September 10, 2015 Permanently install all the hardware except the ballast. Then seal/waterproof the entire lure. Then float test it with trebles attached and ballast taped to the lure. Then drill the ballast hole(s) and epoxy it in. Waterproof around the ballast hole if needed after it is installed. Then sand, paint and topcoat. I like to seal/waterproof with 30 minute epoxy like Devcon Two Ton. It's tough, waterproof, and will level out beautifully to cover any imperfections in the lure's surface. Lightly sand it after curing to remove its gloss and give it some "tooth". I usually mix in a FEW (3-4) drops of denatured alcohol before brushing the epoxy on the lure. It helps to pop any bubbles left from the mixing and helps the epoxy penetrate the wood, but won't appreciably extend the total epoxy cure time. Don't use other solvents like acetone or lacquer thinner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted September 10, 2015 Report Share Posted September 10, 2015 The super glue or CA glue that I use is already as thin as water and it is dry in less than a minute. Because it is very thin, it soaks in very well. I place a few drops and spread with my finger, trying not to get too attached. Acetone to clean your finger. Because it is so fast, a couple of coats to seal for testing is no bother, even if I have to re-seal 2 or 3 times in the testing process. Do not put the wood in water without sealing. Don't mess about with carving at this stage, save that for when you have figured out your bait. Dave 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ACarrell Posted September 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2015 You guys are awesome! These tips (and step by step instructions) are absolutely fantastic! Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with a newbie like me ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted September 10, 2015 Report Share Posted September 10, 2015 Check the sticky about Why I Use PVC. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ACarrell Posted September 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2015 Check the sticky about Why I Use PVC. Will do ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
