dr.olds Posted September 16, 2015 Report Share Posted September 16, 2015 Here is a pic of the first mould and injector that I built. I re melted old Senkos for testing. now i need to buy plastisol , dyes , and flakes . Im very pleased with the outcome . Time to start modeling some other baits 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Linnell Posted September 16, 2015 Report Share Posted September 16, 2015 you make aluminum molds? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr.olds Posted September 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2015 I make injection blow and stretch blow moulds for a living , so when I found this site I though i would give it a try. At the very least my buddies and I can fish cheaper. Noel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted September 16, 2015 Report Share Posted September 16, 2015 Congratulations - terrific job. Dave 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr.olds Posted September 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2015 Thank you. After 32 years in the trade I finally found a rewarding use for my skill set 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Apdriver Posted September 16, 2015 Report Share Posted September 16, 2015 Very nice Noel. With your skill set, the sky's the limit for you and your pals. Your work is very nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr.olds Posted September 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2015 I've quickly realized that I should have cut the sprue into the central runner from the top and not the side. I am getting 3 grams difference in wieght from cavity 1 to cavity 4. I feel a more balanced runner would work better Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted September 17, 2015 Report Share Posted September 17, 2015 I don't understand how you are getting a 3gm difference between 1 & 4. The mold appears to have filled perfectly. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRammit Posted September 17, 2015 Report Share Posted September 17, 2015 Hollow baits??... Dont have to weigh em to figure that out... I know that feeling all too well! Only other explaination would be salt... But i think that would be a mixing problem, not a mold problem Great looking mold btw... Professional quality!... An envy of guys like me using plaster! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted September 17, 2015 Report Share Posted September 17, 2015 Invert the mold, so that the injection is at the bottom. This should fix the problem. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr.olds Posted September 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2015 I will try inverting to inject. It could have been salt distribution as well. I was using re melted senkos . I am going to pick up a gallon of the alumilite plastisol as i can get it local. I am in Canada ,so it is hard to get liquids shipped here not to mention real pricy. Noel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted September 17, 2015 Report Share Posted September 17, 2015 Clearly an utter failure! Send it to me for proper disposal! Hahaha Seriously, you may be injecting your plastic too hot, and not stirring well before you load your injector. The hotter the plastic, the faster the salt settles out. I start with my plastic around 320 for injecting, and my 4 cavity Essential Senko mold fills fine. The baits are very similar in weight, and the color is consistent throughout. I use heat stabilizer when I first make up my batch of plastic, so I can clean out my injector, open the mold and cut the baits loose, drop the sprues back into my cup, and reheat and pour again, over and over, until the plastic is too low in the cup to inject. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr.olds Posted September 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2015 Thanks I will give that a try . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Linnell Posted September 17, 2015 Report Share Posted September 17, 2015 good looking mold Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr.olds Posted September 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2015 I will take all of the critiques I can get. I have always found it easier and faster to learn from other peoples mistakes I used solid dowels on this one. I reamed the bottom half for press fit and reamed a thou over sized on the top half .I agree that 4 pins might be a bit of overkill. I had thought of using shoulder bolts for clamping which would eliminate the need for dowels . I appreciate the help and I am sure I will have more questions in the near future as my new addiction progresses . Thanks Noel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr.olds Posted September 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2015 I totally agree with your approach. I clamp in a vice so I don't bother using clamp screws. I need to fight the urge to build a Cadillac and stick to down and dirty . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonteSS Posted September 17, 2015 Report Share Posted September 17, 2015 (edited) No mold expert here but I have found that stick molds with small Gates (area between sprue and bait head) do not shoot well. They seem to close up before more plastic can be sucked in. Your sprue looks large but should be topped off as needed. Had a Bears 5 1/2" fat stick and a Dels 7 cavity that shot terrible and both had small Gates. Dents and hollow spots. My Dels 5" 4 cav had a center injection port and was verticle.Shot OK but not consistent. I modified for horizontal and shoots perfect every time. Edited September 17, 2015 by MonteSS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr.olds Posted September 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2015 My boss and I have an agreement as far as off cuts and fasteners go . It doesn't hurt that both of my bosses are avid fishermen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr.olds Posted September 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2015 So it wouldn't hurt to enlarge the gate areas a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveMc1 Posted September 18, 2015 Report Share Posted September 18, 2015 So it wouldn't hurt to enlarge the gate areas a bit. I personally think it would. I have a few 16 cavity 5" stick molds (custom design) and the gates are tiny, yet I have zero problems with hollow baits or dents. As long as they are designed properly to suit the mold and layout you shouldn't have an issue. One trick I have found is to keep the bait close to the runner, the closer it is the less chance you have of the gate freezing early on you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishon-son Posted September 18, 2015 Report Share Posted September 18, 2015 WHY CANT YOU NOZZLE BE ROUNDED AND YOU SHOOT EACH WORM BY IT SELF RIGHT FROM THE TOP...IF YOU CLAMP IN A VISE AND SHOOT FROM THE TOP THE CAVITY WILL ALWAYS FILL... NO OR LITTLE SPRUE..AND LESS WASTE.......I TO WORK IN PLASTICS AND NONE OF OUR NOZZLE TIPS ARE FLAT AND ROUND ALL ARE RADIUSED...NEVER PINCH IN THE MOLD....OR STICK....BAITS AND MOLD LOOKS GREAT..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Linnell Posted September 18, 2015 Report Share Posted September 18, 2015 Just be aware that the biggest danger of injecting a top or side inject mold from the bottom is if you slip you will shoot molten plastic all over the hand holding the mold. I've got a wood worker's vise bolted to my pouring bench for testing any problem molds so my hands are not in the path of destruction. I stand as far back as I can work safely so if something goes wrong it won't run down my pants legs either. After the mold is full I just stand there and hold it for a good minute to make sure the mold sprue won't drip on me either. I would note that this is something I only do when testing a mold that doesn't fill right to see if syringing it will fix the problem. If it fixes the problem I recut it as a bottom inject mold like this. http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/gallery/image/8962-curly-tail-frog/ or this http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/gallery/image/8693-plain-old-grub/ Bob, those grubs dont dent? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr.olds Posted September 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2015 (edited) Well I vented the cavities further and did a test shot at 320 deg. They all weighed within 1/2 of a gram high to low. Success. Noel Edited September 18, 2015 by dr.olds Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Rennie Posted September 18, 2015 Report Share Posted September 18, 2015 Fantastic looking mold, and injector! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr.olds Posted September 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2015 Thank you. I am going to make another injector and a manifold for doing laminates . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
